Rant of the Week

Posted by Elizabeth Large on April 20, 2007 2:29 PM | Permalink

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:24 PM | Permalink | Comments (9)
        

I'm in moving hell. I know I said I don't pack and I don't move, but yesterday I came to my senses. We weren't going to get out of here before April 1 if I didn't pitch in, and I'm still not sure we will.

I canceled my farewell tour of L.A. No last pizza at Mozza, no last hike in Runyon Canyon, no last movie at the beautiful ArcLight.

Besides things to be packed up...

...and things still to be sold, there are many last-minute errands to be run. I won't bore you with the details, but let me just say Kingman, Ariz. (5 1/2 hours away), may be a bit ambitious for our first night. The problem is that if we don't get off before 3 p.m., we might as well wait until after 7 because of L.A. traffic.

Definitely no interesting dinner at some local restaurant we discovered in Arizona. We'll be lucky if we have a pit stop sandwich along route 40.

Having said that, I'm looking at the TripTik between here and Kingman. Did you know between Newberry Springs and Needles (205 miles) there are no services? I'm guessing that doesn't mean no Starbucks.

I think I'll accompany this with a photo of the exterior of the Breadbar, one of the many places I never got to in the almost five years my daughter lived here.

(Photo by me) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:25 AM | Permalink | Comments (23)
        

This is the place where you get to comment on the restaurant I reviewed yesterday or the review itself.

If you look at the latest Zagat's lists of Best Buys and Other Good Values in this area, you'll find that they are mostly delis, cafes, a crab house, and unassuming ethnic places.

The exceptions are Orchard Market, Peppermill and the Helmand. Of those, it seems to me (although I like both Peppermill and Orchard Market), the Helmand gives you the most in terms of swank for your money. ...

I was struck this time even more than usual that the appetizers are the best part of the meal at the Helmand. Would you agree?

It's odd because that's exactly the opposite of how I feel at, say, Indian restaurants. Now these are broad generalizations, but I'm always happiest at the Helmand if I'm eating something like the vegetarian aushak (ravioli) as my main course, not the lamb stews or kebabs.

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:24 AM | Permalink | Comments (10)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

Yes, it was 35 years ago today that I started reviewing restaurants for The Sun.

The great thing about a blog is that you can be self-indulgent, and I like to think I take advantage of that fact more than most. So today I'm going to re-"print" the story I wrote five years ago, on my 30th anniversary.

It's long, so if you don't feel like reading it all, at least skip down to the headlines at the end, perhaps my favorite part. And if you do read it all, remember it was written five years ago: You'll see several things that are already out of date.

Here we go: ...

The Critic Who Ate Baltimore

Elizabeth Large began dishing about restaurants in this town three decades ago. A look back at how the courses -- and the critic-- have changed.

Thirty years ago a friend told me The Sun was looking for a restaurant critic. I was young and fearless, and I decided to try out for the job by writing a couple of columns. In my wildest dreams I never imagined I would still be writing about crab cakes and cheesecake well into the next millennium. My first column was published on March 30, 1973. It's a small coincidence that today is three decades later to the day, but it's started me thinking about the changes in the Baltimore food scene over the years -- and the changes in me as a restaurant critic.

    In 30 years, I've been to more restaurants than I can count. A thousand? Fifteen hundred? When I started, no one served tuna rare or knew what tiramisu was. Waiters didn't introduce themselves. And the best French restaurant in town (Danny's) served cottage cheese, dill pickles and popovers as an hors d'oeuvre. I was told the reason Baltimore didn't have more good restaurants was that the people who would support them belonged to private eating clubs instead. Looking back at reviews from those first years, I see that they were awash with watery Maryland crab soup, mediocre shrimp cocktails, overcooked stuffed flounder, oversauced crab imperial and, of course, Mrs. Pose's cheesecake. Not many restaurants had respectable wine lists; if you didn't drink hard liquor, which I didn't, you were out of luck.

    My first review appeared in the features section of the morning Sun. The column was called "Eater's Digest" and the restaurant was Danny's, one of the city's finest and certainly most expensive.

    "It's the only restaurant I've ever been in where I overheard someone ask the price of a cup of coffee before he ordered it," I wrote.

    The Sun paid me $50 -- a princely sum except that I had to pay for the meal out of it. There wasn't much left over after dinner for two at Danny's. (I eventually talked my boss into $35 plus expenses.)

    You didn't need to know much about food to be a critic back then -- although I thought I did. You just had to have a good sense of the ridiculous. The problem from a writer's point of view is that these days eating in Baltimore is no longer a running joke.

    "[The peas] had an odor so strange that when I pointed it out to the waitress, she said, 'I hope you won't be sick,' " I wrote in a 1973 review of the Oak Room, the dining room of the Lord Baltimore Hotel downtown.

    Don't get me wrong. Being the paper's food critic is -- and was even then -- a lark of a job. Baltimore had some wonderful restaurants in the early '70s, just not enough of them. Not only that, but eating out wasn't the passion it is today, and my copy, to say the least, wasn't considered sacred. Sometimes half a review would simply disappear for space reasons. It was usually the positive half, of course, because negative comments are always more fun to read.

    I was a freelancer who had a background in food and writing but was working for the Johns Hopkins University at the time. John Dorsey, The Sun's main, and highly respected, food critic wrote for the Sun Magazine. I was hired to help liven up the daily features section. Nobody knew who I was, but the rumor around the newsroom was that Elizabeth Large was the nom de plume of a reporter, Jeff Price. ... That first year Baltimore Magazine awarded Elizabeth Large "worst pseudonym for a food critic" in its best and worst issue.

    Variety in short supply

    Meanwhile, I was working my way through sour beef and dumplings, hard shell crabs deep fried in thick batter, crab fluffs, and baked potatoes served in aluminum foil. I love traditional Maryland food as much as the next person, but if you're writing about it week after week, you appreciate a little variety -- something the city didn't get until the early '80s.

    Baltimore had Danny's, the Chesapeake, Tio Pepe, Marconi's, Haussner's, Peerce's Plantation and the Pimlico Hotel. We had Little Italy (Velleggia's, Chiapparelli's and Sabatino's were stars) and our beloved crab houses. But there wasn't an Indian restaurant here until the Jai Hind opened in the early '70s. Tio Pepe's food was as much Continental as Spanish; Haussner's, as much Maryland seafood as German. "Ethnic" for the most part meant Greek or Cantonese Chinese. A Chinese restaurant was considered swanky if the waiters didn't wash down the Formica tabletops with the leftover tea.

    Still, if you went to one of Baltimore's best restaurants, you were practically guaranteed a good meal. I started off one review saying, "Perhaps the greatest accolade I've ever heard for a restaurant was from a friend who told me she went into labor at the Prime Rib and refused to leave until she finished her meal." I ended up pretty much agreeing that this place served food worth putting off having a baby for.

    But there were other restaurants so mediocre that periodically my husband had enough, and refused to serve as companion -- for months, sometimes even for years.

    Freddie's Bar and Restaurant on Harford Road, which somebody had recommended, was the kind of place we ended up in all too often in those early days. I described the decor as "dingy -- no, dirty." It was so depressing my husband kept asking me if I was certain this was the right restaurant.

    "When I assured him this had to be it, he remarked that he was glad he couldn't see in the kitchen and lapsed into a sullen silence. ... I managed to keep him pinned to his chair struggling until the food arrived." (As it turned out, the meal itself wasn't bad. )

    Luckily, I had friends who were starry-eyed at the chance of free food -- until reality set in and they dropped by the wayside. For every Country Fare Inn (where Roland Jeannier of Jeannier's got his start locally), there were four like Shook's Restaurant and Lounge on Maiden Choice Lane (headline: "Shook's really needs help").

    Shook's specialty was raw beef sandwiches.

     Highlights, low lights

    The highlight of that first year of reviewing, for me anyway, was a series on the city's hotels.

    Mayor William Donald Schaefer had said earlier about promoting tourism, "We can't move forward if Baltimoreans ... are running down their own city," so The Sun had me review hotel restaurants while another reporter stayed overnight in the same hotels and wrote about her experiences.

    As one letter to the editor put it, "Not satisfied with Elizabeth Large wielding her own deadly pen, the feature section had to have some other female mouthing nasty things."

    Only in Baltimore in the '70s would you have a restaurant (the Holiday Inn's) revolving around in front of the Bromo-Seltzer clock, and no one but me seemed to find it funny.

    Two years later, someone at the paper got the bright idea of sneaking me into the city's private eating clubs as a guest and having me do a series reviewing them. (The ethics of this didn't seem to worry anyone.) It would have been a better idea if most of the clubs' memberships hadn't been closed to women, African-Americans and Jews.

    A good part of our readership was annoyed by the series; contrary to what the higher-ups at the paper thought, they hadn't been panting to know what they were missing. True, the traditional Maryland food was, on the whole, fine and the settings were Old Baltimore at its most stately; but the city was beginning to look forward to New Baltimore, which was a lot more fun.

    Throughout the '70s, the bane of my existence was family restaurants. There were so many of them, and most of them were so ordinary, yet it seemed mean to criticize them. Then I had a child of my own and began to understand their value.

    "When I was childless I always disliked so-called family restaurants," I wrote. "But now I have my revenge. She's 9 months old and when she wears a frilly dress she looks like a stevedore in drag. ... During a trip to the Eastern Shore I decided to unleash her on the White Hall Inn near the Bay Bridge as the supreme test of that self-designated family restaurant."

    I realized that, while the soup was lukewarm and the spareribs fatty, it was nice to be eating in a place that didn't mind the chicken bones and wet Saltines on the floor. The waitresses were very nice about the mess. "What families with babies don't spend on drinks they make up for in tips," I concluded.

    Something wonderful

    At the end of the '70s and beginning of the '80s, something wonderful happened. The new Harborplace was part of it. A number of intriguing, globally inclined restaurants opened there with names like the Black Pearl, Tandoor, Taverna Athena and Jean-Claude's. The city started to get Indian, Thai, Japanese and Szechuan restaurants. Funky -- and good -- little places like the Soup Kitchen appeared. The Country Fare Inn franchise took off, which led to King's Contrivance, Fiori, the Brass Elephant and, eventually, the current incarnation of the Milton Inn.

    Nouvelle cuisine arrived in Federal Hill with Stall 1043.

    "The deep pink salmon filet ... was wrapped around a puff of salmon mousse and placed on a lightly paler pink Nantua sauce," I wrote ecstatically in my 1980 review of the new restaurant. "Draped oh so negligently across the filet was one succulent lobster claw (without its shell, of course). Several other chunks of lobster meat lingered nearby, as though the chef had only picked lobster because its elegant coral color complemented the salmon's pink."

    I was so happy to have entertaining food to write about I downplayed my dismay at my first course: gelatinous slices of scallops arranged picturesquely in an intricate circle on cucumber puree -- a typical nouvelle dish. The decade of over-handled food had begun in Baltimore.

    Stall 1043 lasted only a few years, but it was long enough to put Federal Hill on the map as a neighborhood with intriguing places to eat. Fells Point was to follow with the opening of Savannah in the Admiral Fell Inn, which later moved and became Charleston, and M. Gettier's, which later moved to Towson. This was the era of Baltimore's celebrity chefs, the likes of Mark Henry, who revived the Milton Inn, Nancy Longo of Pierpoint, Rudy Speckamp of Rudys' 2900 and Michael Rork at the Harbor Court Hotel.

    My audience was changing, and I was changing as a critic. People had always loved their favorite restaurants, but now if I said something negative you would think I had drowned their first born. I could understand restaurant owners taking my criticism personally, but I was amazed at how outraged readers got.

    What's more, people started to want to describe their meals to me. In excruciating detail. (Hey, only I get to do that.) If I met people at a party they might ask me what my favorite restaurants were, but I quickly realized what they really wanted to do was tell me what their favorites were. It was easier just to counter with "What's yours?" No one has ever hesitated to tell me -- or repeated their question about mine.

    I also found that owners were more reactive to reviews than they had been -- maybe because they realized people were paying more attention to restaurant critics. They would go back and find my check from the description of the meal and figure out who the staff was that night. One waiter called in tears to say he'd been fired because he had told me he didn't recommend the special that evening, and I had printed his remark. I started to be more careful.

    I've also had to be more careful about staying anonymous as the years passed. I don't wear a disguise, but I do use a credit card in another name, and I only get back to the same restaurant every five or six years unless there are drastic changes. I'm probably recognized sometimes, but what are they going to do? Run out and buy a better cut of steak?

    I've always thought of myself as the readers' advocate, and I've tried to stay as far away from the owners and chefs as possible. But as customers have gotten more assertive in their own right, I've lost some of my sense of outrage at bad food and worse service. I've seen how often it's out of the owner's hands if the steak is overcooked or a staffer rude. I'm continually amazed that anyone takes on the Sisyphean struggle of opening a restaurant. Why do they do it? (Unless it's a cash cow like the Outback Steakhouse, but that's another story.)

    Explosion of the new

    But open them they do, thank goodness, and open them they did one after another in the '90s. Globalization took off, and Baltimore's restaurant scene really came into its own. People stopped going to D.C. just because they wanted an authentic ethnic meal -- or a good haute cuisine French meal, for that matter. We lost the Chesapeake, Danny's and Haussner's; but Tio Pepe, the Prime Rib and Marconi's are still going strong. They've just made room for the Bicycle, Charleston, Spike & Charlie's, Donna's, the Helmand, the Black Olive, Red Tapas, Red Coral, Red Maple -- you get the idea. Anyone who was lucky enough to be a critic during this explosion of new restaurants, namely me, had great on-the-job training.

    At the same time, of course, I learned that the more things change ...

    I still needed, as Sun food columnist Rob Kasper once said, 9,000 ways to say mediocre. I endured trends: Tall food. Fussed-with food. Herbs used as decoration that had nothing to do with the dish. (OK, it's an improvement on the spiced apple ring.) Olive oil served with bread when butter would be more appropriate. Balsamic everything. Flavored tea bags presented in enormous wooden chests. Tiramisu. And now, creme brulee.

    When I got tired of writing about food I took time off, but not often. In my 30 years on the job, I've had as many as two columns a week (one for the Sun Magazine and one casual eats column for the weekly section called Live). For several years when I was editor of the magazine, I didn't have a regular column but continued to review for the twice-yearly dining guides.

    Thirty years ago, I never would have guessed we would be where we are now: With noise probably the No. 1 complaint diners have about eating out in Baltimore. With a moderate meal costing $30 to $60 for two. With fusion cuisine so common we don't even think about it as fusion anymore. With sushi as popular as pizza. (Well, almost.) With excellent breads the rule, not the exception, and more wines by the glass than most places used to have bottles on their wine lists. And yet with two of Baltimore's top three most popular restaurants, according to the latest Zagat survey, still Tio Pepe and the Prime Rib.

    I never was much good at prophesying. Here's what I said about Connolly's seafood restaurant, now long gone, in 1982:

    "When finally the weeds are pushing their way through the Chart House's foundations and the lizards are sunning themselves on Harborplace's abandoned terraces, I have the feeling Connolly's will still be dishing out crab cakes and fried oysters on Pratt Street at Pier 5."

    Nope. Not by a long shot.

    She's Not Making This Up

    So you want my job. Well, it isn't all peaches and cream, or lobster and filet, as the following excerpts from my early reviews illustrate. (Bear in mind that this was 20 or 30 years ago. They don't apply to the restaurants of the same name today, most of which don't even have the same owners -- if they're still open.)

    * "Crabtree's has its peccadilloes. (The first time we made reservations, for instance, no one bothered to tell us the restaurant would be closed that Sunday.)"

    * "I pointed out [to the waiter] that a small insect was walking on the Russian [dressing]. 'Oh Jesus,' he said." (Baltimore Museum Cafe)

    * "I was surprised at how terrible my plain omelette ($3.95) was. ... It tasted as though it had been cooked in automobile grease." (Owl Bar)

    * "I had dinner at the Milton Inn in Sparks, Maryland, recently, and except for the food, it was a pleasant experience."

    * "My job lands me in some odd situations, and one of them was sitting in the Bamboo Inn's unfestive dining room with a flaming Pu-Pu Platter."

    * "I ordered six steamed clams ($2.15) to begin with, but they didn't arrive until after my crab fluff. They were the biggest, hoariest granddaddy clams imaginable. Oversteaming only made them more leathery. They were served with drawn margarine." (Blue Gables )

    * "We all need a little romance in our lives, especially this close to Valentine's Day. The question is whether we also need a waiter who not only introduces himself -- 'Hi! I'm your waiter Gregory' -- but also the water bearer, as in 'Your water bearer's name is Ronald.' " (Carolyn's Cafe)

    * "There is one small problem with 'Connolly Special No. 6, Pan Fried Rock' ($8.75).

    "It's sea trout."

    * "You've got to love crowds to love Alonso's. You've got to love people watching you with hawk eyes, willing you to hurry up so they can have your table."

    * "There's a certain point at a restaurant past which I suddenly say, 'I don't want to be here anymore.' The Rusty Scupper took us long past it."

    -- Elizabeth Large

    Jaw-dropping Headlines

    When I first started reviewing, not only did I have to worry about bad restaurant meals and outraged owners, I had to be wary of the headline writers at The Sun. I would open the newspaper, and my jaw would drop. Here are a few of my favorite headlines from the '70s, my first decade on the job:

    Viet dinner experience beats the war

    Despair after sundown

    Sauced at a Spanish outpost

    (No, I hadn't been drunk. I had complained about too much sauce on my main course.)

    The Candle-light Inn has candles

    They shoot piano players, don't they?

    (And I had complained about him so gently in the review.)

    The ambience is fine; too bad you can't eat it

    Muzak wasn't loud enough to drown out drunk in Oak Room

    -- Elizabeth Large

(Photo of Haussner's by Amy Davis/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:31 PM | Permalink | Comments (22)
        

Faithful readers will remember earlier refrigerator photos. My daughter was beginning not to be amused that her fridge was showing up on this blog at every visit, but she agreed to one last look. As you can see, when it comes time to move there are certain advantages to having an empty refrigerator. And when she sells it today, she can truthfully say it's in mint condition.

Yesterday I learned how you can get rid of a half bottle of Skyy vodka and leftover bottles of beer before a road trip. You take them to the host of a party at the apartment house pool and say you'll donate them to the party if he'll help you move a TV. It's not until he sees the TV that he realizes it's a large-screen Sony Trinitron that weighs about 10,000 pounds, and by then it's too late. (My daughter had sold it to a friend four floors down on the other end of the building.)

Still, she has yet to get rid of the sofa or the bed or the dining room table, and the clock is ticking. 

Unfortunately she went to bed last night with the beginnings of a head cold, and when I called my husband back in Baltimore this morning he had a bad sore throat. I feel the way the people in the Middle Ages must have felt -- the quarter of Europe's population who didn't have the Black Death. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:44 AM | Permalink | Comments (6)
        

It's hard on a restaurant, I imagine, when people expect it to fail because of its location. But Tark's Grill in Green Spring Station seems to be making an early success of it, for reasons I'll tell you about in my review next week in the Sunday Arts & Life Today section.

(Kenneth K. Lam/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:49 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)
Categories: Review Preview
        

Your restaurant critic arrived at  BWI at 5:45 a.m. with her Stone Mill baguette in hand, but never ate it. As you can see, I got upgraded to first class at the last moment, a perk of having flown out here so much.

You have to wonder what my seatmate thought I was doing when I whipped out my camera, but he never said a word.

My daughter picked me up at LAX, and after five minutes turned to me with a big smile and said, "I've already been in the car with you too long."

It could be a long trip. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:32 PM | Permalink | Comments (9)
        

By the time you read this, I'll be on the plane to LA for the last time for awhile. I've had such a good time visiting my daughter and brother there, both in eating and noneating ways, that I'm really sad about it. She's lived in Beverly Hills and Hollywood, and he lives in Silver Lake, so I've gotten a good cross section.

The following was my first post about my trips there, dated last April 26, and its sole comment from Loyal Reader Kathy.

Since then we've eaten at Mozza more times than I care to admit, and each time we've had to make a reservation farther and farther in advance. Here's the first LA-oriented post in honor of my last visit:

On to the trendy eating capital of the world

I told Tom Sietsma, the Washington Post restaurant critic, that I was heading for LA tonight and hoped to...

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:40 AM | Permalink | Comments (4)
        

One important chore I have before I leave is to delete e-mail so my inbox won't reach its capacity while I'm away and then as punishment not let me send any until I clear it out. Here are a few very random things that might or might not be of interest to you:

Cindy Wolf of Charleston has again received a Best Chef nomination for the Mid-Atlantic region from the James Beard Foundation.

I got an e-mail saying that Salt is now taking reservations. 

I hear that Sander's Corner on Cromwell Bridge Road is changing hands. 

Blog reader and commenter Susan sent me this: ... 

I get this newsletter from TrueLemon (based in Baltimore), and they have a program that provides True Lemon packets to soldiers on deployment, if people contact them for samples (see middle column in link). Do you suppose you could run that on your blog? It also helps a Baltimore company  :-)
Thanks,
Susan

Outback Steakhouse and Coke are having a Win Final Four Tickets promotion. Here's the info:

They can enter to win by ordering a Bloomin' Birthday special menu item with a Coke Zero at an Outback restaurant.  When they do that, they will get a Coke Zero NCAA glass and a game piece for the contest.

There's more info and sweepstakes rules here.

BaltAmour blogger Maryann James sent me this budget travel link on making a sandwich for the plane. This time I'm not going to do a sandwich because my flight leaves so early, but I'm filing this advice for another time.

By the way, I don't want to bore everyone by saying thank you, thank you, thank you after every nice comment about my trip, so this is a general but heartfelt thank you. One thing's for sure, it will be an adventure.

It's a sporadic tradition in our family (when we remember to do it) to have a group weigh-in before and after a trip, and the person who has gained the least amount of weight gets to lord it over the rest of us. Unfortunately no other prize is involved.

(Photo taken at Salt by Chiaki Kawajirir/Sun photographer)

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:52 PM | Permalink | Comments (5)
        

OK, let's go over your instructions for the next week one more time. Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to keep this blog going with lively and frequent comments, while I'm fighting over control of the car's radio dial on my road trip.

Earlier I said I had thought of really making it easy on myself and choosing a one- or two-word topic, such as "veal," and just throwing it out there. However, with veal we might enrage half our readers, and I won't be around to moderate when the discussion gets ugly.

Feel free to suggest any other one or two-word topics you think would be interesting but less inflammatory below. ...

I have enlisted the help of not one but three crack multimedia editors to publish your (I hope) frequent comments, but if you feel they aren't keeping up, please complain and I'll get on them. Oddly, they think they have more important things to do than monitor my blog. I hate that.

I should have internet access in the morning and night, although I am eyeing a couple of nice B & Bs along the way that don't even have TVs, let alone wi-fi.

What on earth is that photo doing with this post? Well, it's getting close to lunchtime and I'm hungry, so the pan-seared lamb ribs, wilted greens and acorn squash puree at Rocket to Venus looked pretty good to me. Plus I'm having a little separation anxiety about leaving the source of all these lovely food photos for the blog.

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:44 PM | Permalink | Comments (18)
        

I got an e-mail from Drew in Greektown asking about complaining in a restaurant, and I think it's a great topic.

It's not something I ever do, however, because I don't want to draw attention to myself. Plus I always feel that if a place makes me really unhappy, I have an unfair advantage: I can tell 150,000 people about my negative experience.

Sometimes even if you don't complain, a savvy restaurateur will take note and make things right. This happened to us at Tark's Grill the other night, where one of us left most of his entree, and it was taken off the bill without asking. I was impressed.

Anyway, here's Drew's e-mail: ...

I am a frequent reader of D@L and was wondering if you have ever blogged about this topic

What would (or should) you expect after complaining at a restaurant.

This topic has recently come to my attention due to a interesting letter I received in the mail last Friday. A little back story:

First, I hardly ever complain at restaurants. I only do when a) the service is incredibly bad or b) the food is beyond unacceptable [a salad that comes out warm would be an example].

I went to a chain restaurant (I know, I know!) in mid Feb. It was on a Tuesday during the afternoon, so not a busy time. The food was fine, what you would expect. But the service was atrocious. The server only had 2 tables, but couldn’t refills drinks, give her name, or ask how the table was doing. At the end, she asked if “you need change?,” which always drives me up a wall.

I was going to complain that day, but I had to run out to a meeting, so I went to this company’s Web site and filled out a comment page with my experience, address, phone number, etc. I didn’t hear anything for 2 weeks. Last Friday, I get a letter in the mail with a not only a full apology, but a $20 gift certificate. I was floored.

So this brings me back to the topic. I would interested to hear stories about if D@L readers, and you, have ever complained and what the outcomes were.

Thanks,

Drew from Greektown

(Photo of Tark's Grill by Kenneth K. Lam/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:01 AM | Permalink | Comments (34)
        

April 1, along with our surprise Top Ten, is also the launch date of Eats.com. This is a new online social network, something like MySpace for foodies. Here's the link to the beta site.

When Eats.com is up and running, it will have a comprehensive restaurant search engine, national story content and menus. Most importantly, you'll be able to create an Eater Profile, so you can share opinions on restaurants and recipes for favorite dishes.

The idea is to  make friends with foodies across the country. Pretty soon you won't need us any more, but come back anyway.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:46 AM | Permalink | Comments (14)
        

According to the March/April issue of the magazine Imbibe (maybe "Drink" was already taken), on newstands now, a hot new trend is restaurants' pairing food with cocktails. I'd certainly be willing to try it, but I'm not sure I could taste the meal after awhile.

Sometimes a multi-course dinner is prepared to complement a particular spirit, and sometimes a cocktail is created to pair with a particular dish, such as a rye whiskey sour that goes with teriyaki pork belly and something called the …Fields Forever cocktail served with goat cheese crostini drizzled with balsamic vinegar. Both of these are from an Atlanta restaurant, Eugene, and the drink recipes are including in the article (although I'm more interested in the recipes for the pork belly and the crostini).

This "trend," if that's what it is, has had at least some representation in Baltimore. Taste in the Belvedere Square area has done scotch dinners, and the Wine Market in Locust Point sometimes features cocktail pairings.

Here's the recipe for the ...Fields Forever cocktail (those three dots are part of the name) that goes with the goat cheese crostini: ... 

…Fields Forever

Greg Best, Restaurant Eugene, Atlanta, Ga.

1/2 ounce gin
1/2 ounce Dubonnet blonde
1 tablespoon fresh strawberry purée
1 bar spoon simple syrup
Soda water
Ice cubes
Tools: bar spoon
Glass: Collins
Garnish: 2 sprigs, mint

Build ingredients over ice in a glass. Top with soda water and 2 mint sprigs (bruise gently with back of a bar spoon to release flavors) and stir.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:17 AM | Permalink | Comments (37)
        

I have in mind a Top Ten for April Fool's Day, which falls on Tuesday this year. Actually one of the commenters suggested it. I don't think I'll tell you what it is because I want you to post about it on the day, which will be during the road trip.

However, I'm not totally committed, so if you have another Top Ten idea suitable for April 1, please post below. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (15)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

I've been saving this topic thinking I'd find some examples and be able to tell you about them, but I haven't found any. Maybe someone else has something to add to Gabe's comment awhile back. (It must have been under one of the Morton's entries.): ... 

What about a new blog topic of Baltimore's best birthday specials? I always [make] a point to get a free cannoli on my birthday from Vaccaro's.

I'm not even sure how you find out about them unless the restaurant has one of those little cards where you get on the mailing list. It seems to me my daughter used to get a kid's cone from Baskin-Robbins once a year. Wouldn't it be nice if, say, Charleston gave you a free seared foie gras appetizer on your birthday?

(Amy Davis/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:09 AM | Permalink | Comments (30)
        

It's Shallow Thought Wednesday again. Although on this blog, one could argue that every day is shallow thought day.

As faithful readers know, on Wednesdays (until he gets bored) Multimedia Editor and Resident Cheeseburger and Wings Expert John Lindner comes up with a topic that the rest of us can take off from.

I think you'll welcome this opportunity, because I know you can do better: ...

From John:

I know one food joke. Or I can remember one. Maybe I know others and they’re hiding behind math and history lessons in the more recondite folds of my cerebral cortex.

A couple, each in their nineties, die and go to heaven. They’re led through the Pearly Gates, and through the most magnificent garden they’ve ever seen. After passing through a private arboretum, they are ushered into a spectacular mansion.

"This is your home," says the guide.

The man and woman look around, awestruck.

Eyes welling with tears, the old man looks at the guide and says: "But we can’t afford anything this grand."

The guide smiles and says "You don’t understand. It’s yours. Bought and paid for. Now, follow me, I gotta show you something I think you’ll really like."

The old man scowls.

The guide takes them to a balcony overlooking a golf course right out of the Garden of Eden. Even if you hated golf you’d take it up just to walk its verdant splendor.

"This," says the guide, "is one of your seven private golf courses. This particular one was designed by Bobby Jones and he can’t wait for an invitation to join you in a game on it."

Now the old man is fuming. He’s actually growling.

"Now," says the guide, "let me show you one other thing, and then I’ll let you explore on your own."

The guide leads them to a pair of doors which open wide as they near it.

On the other side of the door is a long banquet table flush with the richest delicacies imaginable along with the choicest wines, beers, liquors and post-prandial tobacco products.

"There will always be such food and drink on this table, always fresh, always the best."

The old man, tears freely running down his cheeks, throws up his hands and shouts "But we can’t eat this! Look at it! I can almost smell the cholesterol!"

The guide smiles. "Nope. You can eat anything and as much as you like with no adverse effects. They don’t call this ‘heaven’ for nothing."

Finally the old guy can’t stand it. He snaps. "Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh!"

His wife is shocked. "Dear, what’s wrong with you?"

The man, seething, points at her and shouts, "Dammit woman, if it weren’t for your stupid bran muffins we’d have been here thirty years ago!"

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:12 AM | Permalink | Comments (21)
        

My daughter and I have started the delicate negotiations involving the road trip route. For newcomers to the blog, here's what I'm talking about.

After getting her proposed route (which involved 11 hours driving the first day and would take us until the night of Monday, April 7) and recovering from the subsequent heart attack, I countered with four other routes, including the one pictured. ...

I fly out to Los Angeles very early this Saturday morning, and (this is the curse of caring about food) I'm already obsessing about when and what I'll have for breakfast. I saved one of those croissants I bought for Easter brunch and stuck it in the freezer, but amazingly it's not there anymore.

Best case scenario: I'll get a free upgrade to first class because I've flown so many times to LA. This happens occasionally but only when there are seats available, which isn't often. It's not that the food is any good, but it is provided; and the flight attendant refills your coffee or tea cup without your having to grovel.

We aren't leaving until Monday so I'll have time for my farewell tour of LA, which will involve lunch at Urth Caffe and dinners on Orso's patio and at Pizzeria Mozza.

I've already started to pack, and although I'm not allowed to bring any clothes, I'm amazed at the technology I seem to think necessary for the trip. The chargers alone are ridiculous: for my cell, my bluetooth, my camera, my iPod, my noise-reduction headphones. (Why the headphones? The driver gets to choose the XM radio station. I figure one of us will kill the other without a pair of noise-reduction headphones in the car.)

Then I'm taking a Netflix DVD (season 5, disc 2, of MI-5; if you haven't seen it, I urge you to start) and my beginning Spanish language CDs. That's because I'm going to the wedding of a close friend's daughter in Buenos Aires at Christmastime -- if I can bring myself to ransom my first born for the plane ticket, but that's a story for another post.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:14 PM | Permalink | Comments (38)
        

In my other hat, I'm the paper's pop culture writer. Unfortunately The Sun doesn't know how hip I really am; the higher ups think I'm just the restaurant critic.

My latest pop culture/restaurant scoop is that an episode of MTV's reality show Made will be filming today at Kali's Court in Fells Point.

The idea behind the show is that ugly ducklings are transformed, in this case a Gaithersburg woman (as soon as I find out her name I'll post it). She and her etiquette coach will be eating at Kali's to teach her, I guess, how to handle difficult foods. On the menu: grilled calamari, beet salad, and a whole bronzino with the head and tail still on. 

It sounds to me as if this woman is going to have it easy. I'd give her a whole artichoke with the choke still in it, heads-on shrimp or oysters on the half shell, and, yes, the whole fish is a good one. 

(Jed Kirschbaum/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:11 AM | Permalink | Comments (17)
        

I decided to go ahead with Mexican (or mostly Mexican, see El Trovador) and save Tex-Mex for another day.

If you got to this blog entry through the promo on the home page, you might have missed the previous post and the helpful comments under it. There are lots of other suggestions, a few of which I hadn't even heard of: ...

* Arcos in Fells Point (pictured). Excellent courtyard/patio in back makes up for some inconsistencies in the generally good food.

* Blue Agave in Federal Hill. A handsome restaurant with regional Mexican food and a tequila bar.

* El Azteca in Clarksville. Part of a successful local group, it offers dishes like burro cortes and rainbow trout a la mantequilla.

* El Nayar in Elkridge. Casual and family-owned, with shrimp soup the specialty on the weekend.

* El Trovador (318 S. Broadway) in Fells Point. A good mix of Mexican and Salvadoran dishes in a handsome setting.

* Fiesta Mexicana (8304 Philadelphia Road) in Rosedale. Excellent Mexican street food.

* La Paz in Frederick. The menu won't surprise you, but it's a nice location and good food.

* Mari Luna in Pikesville. Fresh Mexican food in enormous portions served in festive surroundings.

* Serrano in Annapolis. This is the sibling of the popular Jalepenos, but its focus is Mexican instead of a mix of Spanish and Mexican.

* Tortilleria Sinaloa (1716 Eastern Ave.) in Upper Fells Point. A tiny restaurant and carryout (it's counter service) with good tacos, quesadillas and tamales.

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:58 AM | Permalink | Comments (44)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

L Cray threw himself on his sword and tested Batter Blaster for us. Not only did he take this excellent photo of the process, he wrote us a detailed review.

I wish I could get away with an opening line like his when I review restaurants.

Thanks, L Cray! ...

First, let me say I am not particularly fond of pancakes.  My wife however, as well as her siblings and our 3 grown children are pancake mavens and always give her "from scratch" pancakes the highest marks.  She, therefore, was the "control" in the endeavor.

After viewing the results, the first thing to note is the batter in the can is refrigerated; "to be stored below 45F".  Consequently, the slump rate of the batter when introduced to the skillet is much slower than with "scratch" batter.  This results in creating cakes that can eventually ooze together as they cook and warm.  I'm sure experience would remove this problem(?).  Note: I sprayed PAM on the griddle per can instructions.  I wouldn't do that next time, we have a well seasoned griddle.

The lower batter temperature also affects the bubble rate, so determining the time to flip is impaired.  When the bubbles looked right, the flipped cake was browner than golden but not burnt. After flipping, to remove the finished cakes, they were a pleasant golden brown.  Using my favorite Julia Child approach, I served them that side up.

As to taste, my wife said they were "pretty good", which I would say is a big compliment.  I even had one (from the second batch) and thought it tasty.  The bacon, butter and maple syrup didn't influence my judgment at all.

Overall, batter blasters seem to be a good product.  It does contain organic products and none of those strange ingredients that are found in similar refrigerated or frozen products.

Next: Owl Meat visits Salt on The Sun Wednesday and reports back.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:24 PM | Permalink | Comments (30)
        

I've been meaning to get to this all morning, but other stuff keeps popping up.

Yesterday I reviewed McCabe's in Hampden, and I was interested to see that no one had much to say about it online other than one smoker who felt I was using the review format to justify the smoking ban.

I noticed I didn't get much in the way of comments here when I previewed McCabe's either. ...

A copy editor who read the review before it was published sent me this e-mail:

i have never even heard of or seen this place! Although I know it must be a block north of the library, I can't even visualize where a restaurant would be. i'll have to check it out.

I was surprised, because I thought every Baltimorean knew about McCabe's. I guess not. Still, if you have anything to say about your experience there or about my review, or about Peeps for that matter, here's the place to do it.

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:56 AM | Permalink | Comments (21)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

 
Here's an interesting tidbit from the National Harbor Web site. It's in reference to the retail going into the National Harbor development in Oxon Hill:

Timothy Dean Bistro
The famous chef and protégé of acclaimed chef and restaurateur Jean-Louis Palladin, Timothy Dean opens a jazz lounge like no other in the heart of National Harbor.

I don't know about you, but I find this bizarre. It's just so out of the blue. ...

I'm not sure calling up people and asking about it is going to generate much more information, but I'll try later.

(Faithful readers of this blog will know what I'm talking about. If you don't know, just use the search function to the right to look for Timothy Dean entries.)

Thanks to Michael Birchenall of Foodservice Monthly for bringing this to my attention.

(Photo courtesy of the Timothy Dean Bistro Web site) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:49 AM | Permalink | Comments (15)
        

I'm walking past the multi-media department Friday, and what do I see but a plate of microwaved Peeps. I surreptitiously took a photo of it with my trusty Digital Elph and saved it for this morning to show you what you can do with your leftover Easter candy.

But what do I discover this morning but a home page feature on Peep art! (I guess, by the way, that Copy Desk Chief John weighed in on the whole What's the Singular of Peeps issue.)

Anyway, it looks suspiciously like our blog once again broke a major story. Coincidence? I think not. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:17 AM | Permalink | Comments (15)
        

This is a view of the Helmand, the Afghan restaurant in Mount Vernon, that you'll never see in real life: with empty tables.

Even after all these years, and even after all the hot new restaurants that have opened up, the Helmand always seems to be busy.

Next Sunday we're doing the Arts & Life Today section for those on a budget (or if you just like to be careful with your money). It wasn't hard to pick the restaurant that would be the best bang for your buck -- especially because I hadn't reviewed the Helmand since 1992, although I've been there on my own since then.

 
(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:28 AM | Permalink | Comments (16)
Categories: Review Preview
        

If you come here through a bookmark or favorite, and I hope you do, you may have missed the story on the home page of the paper this morning by Hanah Cho and Jamie Smith Hopkins.

I like to think of it as an expanded version of my blog entry on Kiko's. I'm guessing the business department probably doesn't.

All kidding aside, it's worth reading if you aren't feeling depressed enough today. I'm hoping we'll get Owl Meat's take on the statistics quoted, although it's hard to argue with this: ...

The U.S. ended 2007 with the biggest increase in inflation since 1990. Last month, the price of staples such as flour and milk was about 25 percent higher than a year earlier, according to the U.S. Department of Labor. Coffee was up more than 18 percent at the end of last year compared with 2006.

You can see how those figures might affect the restaurant business. 

(Photo of Taste courtesy of Riley & Rohrer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:04 AM | Permalink | Comments (48)
        

I got a phone call after dinner Thursday from The Sun's copy desk. The copy editor was reading the Q & A I had done with Damon Hersh, the new executive chef of Kali's Court and Mezze, which is scheduled to appear in tomorrow's Ideas section.

The copy editor wanted to know if Hersh had really said "tall food."

I was startled. And then I remembered that this wasn't the features copy desk, which reads the food section and my reviews, and therefore has heard about every food trend known to man.

If this copy editor didn't know about tall food, maybe not everyone does. He may have stuck a definition in the Q & A, but if not, here's my quick explanation: ...

Flat food fanned out on the plate was very '80s; food built up into towering shapes hit big in the '90s. Now conspicuously tall food looks, well, so last decade. 

Tall food has been around long enough that there's even a cookbook telling you how to do it: Deborah Fabricant's Stacks: The Art of Vertical Food. 

I'll link to my Q & A here when it's online so you can read Hersh's take on Baltimore's dining trends and how they've changed in the last decade.

(Photo of Damon Hersh by Jed Kirschbaum/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:57 PM | Permalink | Comments (18)
        

Here we go. I'm saying to myself "Shut up. No good can come of this" but my fingers keep typing. I'm sure by now some baby carrots that are sold as baby carrots really are baby carrots, but for the most part they are cut from bigger carrots. Here's a pretty good link telling you more, perhaps more than you ever wanted to know about cut, peeled baby carrots.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:11 PM | Permalink | Comments (17)
        

So far, not really a successful morning, at least as far as saving the planet is concerned. I went to Whole Foods but forgot to take my reusable bags in with me, and I didn't remember until I was in the checkout line.

I had already annoyed the produce woman (who was cranky to begin with) by getting into a discussion about whether baby peeled carrots were really whole carrots or cut carrots. Do you ever get into these situations where you say to yourself, "Shut up. No good can come of this" but your mouth just keeps talking?

And I forgot to buy grapefruit.

Clearly the only thing to do was...

While I was at it, I learned something that might be helpful to you: Bonjour is open tomorrow, on Easter, from 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. A good thing to remember if you need a last-minute bread or dessert, or something wicked and good to take as a hostess present.

(Photo of Bonjour by me) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:09 AM | Permalink | Comments (17)
        

Hal Laurent VoR bought up this point last night:

What's with restaurants calling things "homemade" anyway?  Does someone live at the restaurant?  Did the chef make it at home before coming to work? 

Well, I know why restaurants do it, just as Hal does. It's for the same reason they call it "Mom's" meatloaf. They want to convey that their food is just like the food that you could lovingly fix for yourself at home, only better.

The question is what a restaurant critic should do. ... 

I've gone back and forth. I don't like "homemade" for the obvious reasons, but it does convey exactly what I want to convey. "Housemade" isn't any more or less accurate when you think about it; a restaurant isn't a house either.

"Made in house" has the same problem but is more awkward. At least it's been around long enough that it doesn't sound like a neologism, so it doesn't stop the reader.

If I'm asking at a restaurant it's easy: I just say, "Do you make that here?" Try working that into a review without being clunky.

I usually use "housemade" because it's less loaded with meaning, but not always. "Housemade" still sounds like a made up word to me, while "homemade," if you don't take it literally, is less offensive to the ear.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:18 AM | Permalink | Comments (26)
        

You may have missed this flattering comment from Barb:

What a great blog - where else can you ask people's opinion about roaches in restaurants, get some thoughtful comments, AND read about Peeps?  Where do I join?  I'm not sure I fit in.  I don't have a special user name and I'm not good at writing amusing, pithy, snarly or just plain strange comments. But I do love food. 

First of all, I want to welcome her because I like the fact that she wants to join. I also want to reassure her that she doesn't need to be witty or snarly. There is plenty, some might say even too much, of that already. There is a role for everyone. For instance, ...

...when Mrs. Pork is otherwise engaged, we always need someone to keep the Zombie Pig of Harmony in check.

What Barb needs from us, it seems to me, is help with her user name.

I'm also glad she brought up the Peeps comments under the roach post. (I don't even like to think how you guys got from one to the other.) I'm sad I didn't make Peeps a separate entry, because I'm afraid the information will escape many readers' notice, such as how to microwave a Peep, how to make a Peep hood ornament, and so on.

As I'm writing this, I'm wondering whether one is a Peep or a Peeps. No help at the official Web site. Just as Peeps themselves make me gag, so does their site. But I managed to soldier on to discover that there are over 200 unofficial Web sites dedicated to this awful confection and that the amount of Peeps chicks and bunnies eaten at Easter would more than circle the earth. Gack.

(Amy Davis/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:14 AM | Permalink | Comments (44)
        

Midnight Sun Sam was talking to someone who works at a city cafe who told him that the cafe's orange juice came out of a bottle, but the staff was supposed to insist that it was fresh squeezed.

I remember once when I was reviewing I asked the waitress which salad dressings were homemade. She whispered, "Don't tell anybody, but all of them but our house dressing." (Of course, I ended up telling 150,000 people.)

Especially these days when menus are so into listing the provenance of each and every ingredient, I wonder how many of them fudge things. I bet quite a few, but maybe I'm too cynical.

Plus, the lines are getting fuzzier. I think some restaurants genuinely think their bread is homemade if they get the frozen dough and bake it themselves.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:08 AM | Permalink | Comments (19)
        

OK. I'm back. I'm better now.

In any case, I'm not sure we can tell whether the price of wheat is responsible for restaurants' no longer automatically putting bread on the table or charging for it when you ask for it. I thought that started in response to all the low-carb diets -- restaurateurs were throwing bread away. But maybe I'm wrong.

A cursory Google search of the wheat shortage suggests that not much has been written about how this might affect restaurants. 

The only place I've eaten lately that charges for bread was the Helmand, and it's been doing that for awhile. I thought it was just so they could continue to keep their prices low on other things.

(Kenneth K. Lam/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:08 PM | Permalink | Comments (28)
        

Stephanie Charles' comment yesterday reminded me of a phenomenon on this blog I've been meaning to write about. I think of it as neighborhood rage.

I can understand someone who lives in a neighborhood being annoyed at how it's characterized by outsiders. Although Ms. Charles was talking about Hampden, the best example I can think of is Fells Point. For instance, some time back I mentioned the difficulty I had parking in Fells Point. ... 

Someone felt angry enough about this to comment that Ms. Large would clearly like a parking spot of her own with her name on it. Well, yes, but given that that's not going to happen, I don't understand why he or she didn't instead say I was wrong and tell us about the two new parking lots at X or Y, or the fact that there's more parking if you go up Ann Street or whatever.

The great thing about the blog is that it gives you as much of an audience as it does me for your opinions and insights. Even if they contradict mine, I'm still going to publish them.

If I say that I'm surprised at Todd Conner's or Alexander's Tavern's kids menu, it isn't maliciousness on my part. It's because when I went to those two places the dining rooms were empty of families but there were a lot of drinkers at the bar. If you feel Fells Point is now more family-friendly than I'm giving it credit for, this blog is your opportunity to make your case.

Of course, then you miss the satisfaction of having made a nasty comment. Believe me, I have my days when that's what I need to do, too. I totally understand that that pleasure might not be worth giving up, even if the other approach might make me more careful of my characterization of your neighborhood next time. (Although it's going to take a lot to convince me it's easy to find a parking spot in Fells Point.)

While this is a little off-subject, I'd like to point out Celeste's comment under the post Baltimore Noir. I thought she handled criticism (though not of her neighborhood) very gracefully, thereby probably winning over more than a few readers. It was nice to have someone try to defuse what started off as an amusing but quickly turned into a snarky exchange about Baltimore Eats.

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:28 AM | Permalink | Comments (39)
        

 
With the news of Kiko's closing at the end of the month, it occurs to me we've never done a Top Ten Tuesday featuring Mexican restaurants.

I think we'd better broaden the category to Tex-Mex and Mexican restaurants, or we might have trouble coming up with 10. And, as usual, the playing field is all of Maryland, not just Baltimore City.

Suggestions? 

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:54 AM | Permalink | Comments (77)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

Now that Owl Meat is back, I'm wondering when he's going to take his gift certificate, visit Salt, and give us a mini-review. I was thinking about it because my ex-deskmate Steve told me he went to a birthday party Monday night for 10 at Woodberry Kitchen and had a great  time. He assured me he was going to post a mini-review of his visit. So far, nothing from either of them. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:34 PM | Permalink | Comments (8)
        

I don't know why, but the few times lately I've had to eat out alone, I've felt like eating at the bar. This is hardly a new trend, but it is one that's getting some notice. At least, my brother in Atlanta sent me this link to a column about it.

It's the same food, usually, as in the restaurant proper. My perception, at least, is that you get waited on more quickly. You have someone to talk to if you feel like it, and your waiter, the bartender, is very accessible. I'm not sure what the downside is. ...

In fact, maybe when I go out with someone else, the two of us ought to be eating at the bar. 

If you've discovered any places that have good eating bars, please post below. The one that comes to mind immediately for me is Helen's Garden in Canton. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:29 PM | Permalink | Comments (33)
        

I got a very nice e-mail from Robert Kirk this morning in reply to my snarky e-mail to him (see previous post), and now I need to grovel. He kindly sent me that interesting link to get my take on reviewers' ethics. He thought the Courant was too harsh and was making a joke; I suggested to however many readers that not only was he a meanie, but Bob Kirk probably wasn't even his real name.

I don't know which was worse.

(Can I call you Bob anyway?) Sorry, Bob. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:46 AM | Permalink | Comments (15)
        

Multimedia Editor and Resident Cheeseburger and Chicken Wing Expert John Lindner has again graced us with his Wednesday morning insights: ...

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:53 AM | Permalink | Comments (27)
        

Something to ponder before you go to bed:

This may not be a subject you want to discuss on your blog, but it's been on my mind and I wonder how other people feel. I wouldn't want to name the restaurant on the blog. ...  I enjoyed eating there for many years.... On my last visit, over 2 years ago, as I was enjoying my meal, I glanced up at the picture on the wall by my table, and saw a very small roach crawl out.  Even though I'd eaten there for years without ever seeing one, I have been unable to go back.  I'm sure I've probably eaten at many places that had "hidden pests", I just never saw them.  How do other people feel, I wonder?  Is it one strike and you're out, or do you give them a second chance? Thanks, Barb

My feeling is that even if it was a very small roach, and even though a restaurant can be as clean as my kitchen and still have a roach, that's it for me. I just wouldn't be able not to think about it every time I ate there.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:12 PM | Permalink | Comments (38)
        

I get my share of e-mails that leave me saying, "Huh?" This was today's, ostensibly from "Bob Kirk." Yeah, right. But the link is interesting. Or maybe he's totally being friendly, his name really is Bob Kirk, and I'm just reading the tone wrong because there's no dreaded smiley face. Who knows?

Here's the e-mail in its entirety:

http://www.courant.com/news/opinion/columnists/hc-hunter0316.artmar16,0,993712.column

A Hartford Courant reviewer gets bounced for saying companions instead of companion. Don't you folks have any ethics, or maybe you need a stronger union.

Bob Kirk

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:54 PM | Permalink | Comments (16)
        

Everybody knows about the elaborate brunch buffets at Baltimore's hotels. I want to suggest some restaurants you might not have thought of. (You'll find more under the Brunch category to the right.)

N.B.: When we decided on brunches for today's Top Ten, I forgot that this next Sunday is Easter, so the information may not be accurate for the holiday version of brunch. (I know it isn't for the John Eager Howard Room, pictured.)

I also wanted to mention Evil Hamster's suggestion of the Mill Valley Garden Center in case you missed it. I didn't include it on the list because it seems to be breakfast not brunch, but here's the link.

Here's my list: ...

*Alexander's Tavern in Fells Point. Readers have given this place mixed reviews since I ate there, but I had a good meal. Brunch includes eggs Chesapeake (the local take on eggs Benedict), steak and eggs, homemade biscuits and gravy, french toast. A la carte menu. $6-$14. Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

* Bonaparte Breads (903 S. Ann St., 410-342-4000) in Fells Point. They don't call it brunch, but this Parisian-style cafe serves buttery croissants, other pastries, quiches, specialty coffees, juices and so on as well as sandwiches. You can eat outside soon. Good suggestion, Matt. Hours are 8 a.m.-6 p.m.

* Christopher Daniel in Lutherville. The buffet includes shrimp, prime rib, bacon, sausage, pasta, salads, eggs made to order, muffins, cakes and all-you-can-drink drinks for $18.95. 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Last seating is at 1:30 p.m.

* Copra in downtown Baltimore. Breakfast buffet with omelets made to order, assorted muffins, chocolate fountain with fresh fruit, bottomless Bloody Marys and mimosas. All for $14.95. 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Reservations highly recommended, they told me when I called.

* John Eager Howard Room in the Belvedere (from the Owl Bar kitchen). This is a brand-new brunch buffet, with six stations or so, including omelets, in what was once the most beautiful dining room in Baltimore. The cost is $14.95, and it's served from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

* Open Door Cafe in Bel Air. This is a sweet little place with a moderately priced menu of breakfast and lunch items. It has creamed chip beef (OK, not a favorite of mine, but not something you can get everywhere either) and also croissants, homemade granola and crab and asparagus omelets. Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.

* Orchard Market & Cafe in Towson. They call it Sunday brunch; but if you want breakfast foods, you're out of luck. Still, the Persian food is excellent. The Web site lists the hours for the buffet, which costs $13.95, as 11:45 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; but when I called, the woman told me 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. (a la carte menu till 4:00 p.m.)

* Tersiguel's in Ellicott City. This French restaurant doesn't call its Sunday midday hours brunch, but there are crepes and omelets on the menu, and there are always several brunch specials, like last Sunday's french toast with maple syrup, persimmon and strawberries. 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

* Victoria Gastro Pub in Columbia. I loved the homemade biscuits when I ate there. The a la carte menu includes an English breakfast (hefty), lamb hash and cinnamon french toast. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m.-2 p.m.

* Waterfront Hotel in Fells Point.  Brunch in an 18-century tavern. The a la carte menu runs around $8-$14. and for $10 you get all-you-can-drink mimosas, Bloody Marys and screwdrivers. Thanks to Brian for reminding me of this. Sunday 10 a.m.-3 p.m.  

(Photo of the John Eager Howard Room courtesy of Truffles Catering)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:04 AM | Permalink | Comments (40)
        

This is great. People all over the country are now e-mailing me Batter Blaster photos:

Subject: batter blaster

Elizabeth,

Since I live in Kentucky close to one of the stores listed on their website, I decided to try to find them when I went to that store today to buy veggies.

I found them in the refrigerated food section over the tortillas, next to the fridged waffles and under the mush.  They even had a price sticker.  Pics attached.  My advice to people who want them is to avoid Whole Foods, come to Kentucky and save a buck and a half.

If you think you get strange reactions to taking pics of food, you should have seen the reaction I got taking a picture of a can on a shelf, in an area that not that long ago was very rural!

Enjoy

Larry Cray

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:33 PM | Permalink | Comments (12)
        

Recently someone posted a lengthy but well-reasoned negative comment about a restaurant. And then, to make sure other potential customers didn't miss it, he/she posted the same comment under a couple of other entries where the restaurant had been mentioned.

I "published" all three comments because I thought it was kind of a clever way to get his/her points across.

I guess he/she was pleased with his/her success, because the next thing I know, the comment had been posted under two more entries. At that point, it began to feel like spam. I killed out all but the first one.

The moral of this story, class? 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:10 PM | Permalink | Comments (12)
Categories: Commenting
        

It seems like this being St. Patrick's Day and all I should say something about Irish food, particularly as we were in Ireland in the fall of 2005.

I wrote a couple of stories for The Sun about our trip -- one general one for the travel section and one on Irish breakfasts for the food section.

I would "reprint" the latter but it was pretty long. (This is great. I've come to realize that with a blog my stories never need die, even if everyone else thinks they should.) 

I will copy and paste the end of my travel story on Dublin, the only place in it I talked about food. I was describing the Temple Bar cultural arts district: ... 

"The Irish Film Institute's glass-roofed courtyard nearby is a fine place to stop for tea and a pastry. Temple Bar also offers any number of places to eat.

"We had great homemade soup and granary bread for lunch at the artsy little Joy of Coffee on Essex Street East. Dinner at the moderately priced (for Dublin) Fitzers on Temple Bar Square, which bills itself as a modern Irish bistro, will help disabuse visitors of misconceptions about Irish food with dishes such as smoked chicken and prawns over linguine and couscous with grilled Mediterranean vegetables.

"But the Irish aren't quite so cosmopolitan as the guidebooks would like you to believe, our hotel manager told us.

"'They still ask you if you want rice or chips [french fries] with your dishes in our Chinese restaurants,' she said."

(Photo that accompanied my Irish breakfast story styled by Julie Rothman of Irish bacon, link sausages, toast in a toast rack, grilled tomatoes and sauteed mushrooms. Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (13)
        

 
I'm sorry to be so late posting this morning. Did you miss me? Now that our crack legislators in Washington have taken all the light and warmth out of the morning, I'm having trouble adjusting. Everyone else loves early Daylight Savings Time but me.

If you want to talk about yesterday's review of Abacrombie, this is the place. Or if you want to tell us about your experience there, please do.

I'll look forward to your updates further along (just use the search function to the right to get back to this post) because sometimes restaurants get better with age, and sometimes they falter.

This is an opportunity, too, for us to talk a little about why even good restaurants don't seem to be able to maintain a consistent clientele...

...in this neighborhood. Whatever you think of Robert Oliver Seafood, where Spike & Charlie's was, it's certainly disappeared from restaurant discussions. It's not like the places around the Meyerhoff are in darkest Africa; you would think they could lure in customers even when it's not a symphony night.

(Chiaki Kawasaki/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:42 AM | Permalink | Comments (34)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

RokChik kindly sent me a couple of links (here and here) about the faux cheeseburger controversy with this note:

I actually don't keep kosher at all, but I have some cousins that do. Apparently a kosher "cheez" burger with soy "cheese" yuk, is causing a minor fury amongst people with nothing better to do.

The first article is especially amusing to me because the rabbi talking about dietary laws is named Basil Herring.  Awesome and an intriguing flavor combo.

I can't speak to the religious implications, but I do have a visceral dislike of what I think of faux foods -- foods that are trying to replace something else. I'm fine with corn oil, hate the idea of margarine. Tofu is great, soy whipped cream is not. Veggie burgers? No thanks, although sometimes I think I could be happy just eating vegetables. I know these are useful foods for various reasons; I can't defend how I feel. Particularly because... 

...I love trompe l'oeil foods, which I've written about on this blog here and here.

(Photo courtesy of TrytheKosherCheeseburgers.com) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (11)
        

I'm afraid that Lioness's irrational food fear got lost in the 54 other comments, and I think it's worthy of further discussion:

I don't eat blue food. Blueberries don't count because their coloring was derived by mother nature. So I should say I don't eat unnatural blue food. The sight of a blue razzberry slurpee gives me the willies.

Posted by: Lioness | March 15, 2008 4:32 PM

I define bad blue food as something that after you eat it, your tongue is blue. If I made a list of good blue food, I suppose it would go something like this: ...

* blueberries

* blue potatoes

* blue M & Ms

* blue martinis

* blue icing roses on birthday cake 

From Gwen's Healing Garden I learned that

Blue foods are thought to maintain urinary health, healthy aging, assist in the memory function, and lower the risk of some types of cancer.

Not sure if that includes blue M & Ms. 

Amateur Gourmet held a blue food contest, with the winner getting tickets to the Blue Man Group. Here are photographs of some of the entries. 

(Photo of Blue Fin courtesy of Cocktail Times, photo of All Blue potato courtesy of AllOrganic.com)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:36 PM | Permalink | Comments (8)
        

When you’ve had all you can take of trendy new hot spots, one cure is to turn to Baltimore’s bar-restaurants, the ones that have been around forever and pride themselves on their crab cakes, hamburgers and steaks.

When you have one in your neighborhood like McCabe’s in Hampden, which offers five homemade soups to begin with and freshly baked desserts to end, all the better. 

But with rising food costs, places like these could be hurting. The cost of beef and crab meat has skyrocketed, and what was once a bargain meal is no longer.

Then, too, has the smoking ban hurt McCabe’s — or helped? The open dining room is so close to the bar it wasn’t possible to have a no-smoking section before.

Find out what I think in my review in next Sunday’s Arts & Life Today section. And check out tomorrow's Monday Morning Quarterbacking if you want to talk about today's review of Abacrombie.

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)
 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:21 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)
Categories: Review Preview
        

Inspired by readers of this blog, I bravely took one of my Whole Foods bags into the SuperFresh this afternoon when I stopped to buy butter. I even used the self-checkout directly under the eye of the overseer-cashier.

She could not have been less interested when I put my Whole Foods bag on the bag holder. (Of course, it didn't work. The computer thought I was putting something in a bag before I had rung it up. The cashier just reset it without saying anything.) 

The only tricky part was taking a photo without being escorted from the store as a nut case.

It was actually pretty stupid because, of course, I bought a hundred other things, so I ended using a lot of plastic bags as well.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:24 PM | Permalink | Comments (23)
        

I got this worrisome e-mail from Francesca recently:

Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 10:01 PM
To: Large, Elizabeth
Subject: Update! Pancakes in a can

I found them at Whole Foods (Harbor East) in the dairy case near the cream and half and half. I didn't buy one because well... it scares me..also I did take a picture but can't get it off my phone so. Sorry :(

I needed proof, so here was the technical advice I e-mailed her back:...

On Thu, Mar 13, 2008 at 10:03 AM, Large, Elizabeth <Elizabeth.Large@baltsun.com> wrote:
Wow. Thanks. You can e-mail it to me...you just have to find the button on your phone that lets you change your numbers to text. Any 12-year-old can help you. In any case, please do post a comment. Why, why, why Whole Foods?

I guess she found her 12-year-old, because I got the photo last night and this reply:

Batter Blaster Picture...  as for why whole foods... maybe they said.. 'well it says its organic...it means it can't be evil... right.....?'

That probably is what happened. Many thanks to alert reader Francesca for going the extra mile, and not only reporting the story but taking a photo to prove it.

Unless, of course, Francesca is really Owl Meat, who either stuck the can of pancake and waffle batter in the dairy case just long enough to snap a picture -- or PhotoShopped a picture of the can taken from the Web into a photo of the Whole Foods dairy case.

I'm heading to the Whole Foods in Mount Washington right now to check it out.

(Photo by, we think, Francesca) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:33 AM | Permalink | Comments (26)
        

It looks like brunches have won out by a narrow margin (two) over other topics for next Tuesday's Top Ten. To make it a little more interesting, let's say Top Ten Places for Brunch You Might Not Think Of. That way we can get some restaurants into the mix that don't usually get much attention.

I guess it doesn't make much sense to make the topic Top Ten Places for Brunch You Might Not Think Of and then ask you for your suggestions, but they are welcome anyway. Please be specific. Tell us what you had when you went that you thought was particularly good, or whether it was the best Bloody Mary you ever had, or whatever.

(Kim Hairston/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:00 AM | Permalink | Comments (19)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

While we're talking about the effects of recent economic woes on the restaurant business, here's an interesting take on the subject from the Wall Street Journal. Thanks to Piano Rob for bringing it to my attention.

Instead of blaming rising gas prices or adjustable-rate mortgages, maybe we ought to be looking at longer-term reasons for a restaurant slump. ...

Since 1999, the article points out, the 50-year increase of women in the work force in the U.S. has leveled off, and even dropped slightly in January.

The result is less money in the family budget. "The young women in the 2000s started saying, 'You know what? I can stay at home and watch my children,' " says Harry Balzer, a vice president at research firm NPD Group who studies how Americans eat. "If you start moderating income, you have to moderate the food costs."

(Photo by Rachael Golden/special to The Sun )

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:09 PM | Permalink | Comments (15)
        

I just hung up from talking to Paul Cooper at Alex Cooper Auctioneers. He told me that the sale of the Timothy Dean Bistro building in Fells Point on March 25 has been cancelled. He also said the ad "should probably not have gone in."

Cooper got a call last Thursday from "the client" saying, "Cancel it! Cancel it!" and he told the client to call The Sun directly because the deadline for an ad appearing Saturday was Wednesday. It just ran that one day. 

Cooper also told me that the state of Maryland "holds the note" and said that he (Timothy Dean) "must have worked out some issues."

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:44 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)
        

Here it is. What you've been waiting for all week: Irrational Food Fear Friday.

I'm not going to make this a weekly feature because, well, it would be too scary.

On the table for consideration: Voodoo Pork's meatloaf.

I suppose I should start the ball rolling by telling you about my irrational food fears.  

Only two come to mind at the moment: ... 

 1) The sushi at Royal Farms, which sat in my fridge without being opened until it was past its expiration date.  What was irrational was that I knew it was fully cooked, more healthful than most things to eat I could buy at a gas station, and it was my job to taste test it. I just couldn't do it.

2) Liver. OK, not foie gras and not pate, which shows you how irrational a fear it is. It's not that it's an organ meat. I love sweetbreads.

But calf's liver. Once a week in my East Tennessee elementary school cafeteria, lunch would be liver and spinach. If you didn't clean your plate, you didn't get any ice cream for dessert. It was always a long afternoon afterward.

When I see liver on a restaurant menu it's often called calves' liver, which makes it sound as if it's come from more than one calf.

No matter the quality of the liver I buy, and no matter what exceptional Julia Child recipe I prepare it with, and no matter how perfectly just pink I cook it, I still have to try hard not to think of how it looks raw, and how beef liver smelled when my mother used to chop it up and saute it lightly to feed our cats.

To show you yet again how irrational this is, the veal liver sashimi pictured looks pretty good to me.

(A veal liver sashimi plate at Ariyoshi restaurant in New York. Photographer: Ramin Talaie/Bloomberg News)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:37 AM | Permalink | Comments (56)
        

I've just found out that Food Editor and Parenting Blogger Kate (I can no longer add Extraordinaire) has stolen away one of my most valuable assets, Multi-Media Editor and Resident Cheeseburger Expert John, who has entertained us on this blog not only with a guest review but also with two Wednesdays' worth of shallow thoughts.

John has agreed to write a story for the Taste section on gas station food instead of, if we were lucky, writing a weekly series for us on the subject. He tells me, for instance, that he's found a gas station north of the city that has decent cheeseburgers. I'd like to know what he was on when he decided they were good, but that's probably another story.

(Picture of John at ha ha work by me)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:29 PM | Permalink | Comments (16)
        

Let's all give Hal a big hand. Wine and Spirits. Brilliant. And it worked. However, now I have to go back through 985 entries to add the appropriate ones to the category, which probably won't happen any time soon. Couldn't you have thought of this earlier, Eric (P.O.G.)?

As for the rest of the suggestions, they were excellent, just not broad enough. I'm keeping them to rip off when I need a headline for entries about wine.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:50 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)
Categories: Wine and Spirits
        

OK, I've blown it. It's been awhile since I've tried to create a category at home, and I forgot that our crack blogware doesn't like my Mac browser. Once you try and fail, as I did with "Wine" at Eric (P.O.G.)'s suggestion, that word seems to be corrupted for good, even if you kill it out and start again with Internet Explorer. That is, I was able to create a Wine category, I just couldn't put any entries in it, which doesn't seem very  helpful.

The same thing happened a couple of times early on. That's why...

...for instance, the Barbecue category is spelled "Bar-B-Que."

What I need from you are suggestions for the Wine category label that aren't "Wine." Vino sounds too, well, Italian. Any ideas? Or maybe one of our Web Editors will be able to figure out why "Wine" isn't working. They couldn't with "Barbecue," but that was a year ago.

(AP photo/Sang Tan)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:29 AM | Permalink | Comments (17)
Categories: Wine and Spirits
        

Think the economy's tanking isn't affecting local restaurants yet? Check out this e-mail from the owners of Kiko's Cucina Mexicana (8806 Belair Road, Perry Hall, 410-529-4215).

Kiko's was one of the restaurants LIVE reviewer Karen Nitkin like best in 2005. In 2006, Baltimore mag named it Best Mexican Restaurant, and in 2007 it was one of its Best Neighborhood Restaurants. ...

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:13 AM | Permalink | Comments (18)
        

OK, boys and girls, time to come up with another Top Ten Topic. I'm feeling uninspired this afternoon, and also wishing someone were home right now cooking dinner for me. So I'm not even going to offer any suggestions.

What are yours?

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:15 PM | Permalink | Comments (22)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

I'm deeply honored to be included in Gutter Magazine's Lust issue. I'm not sure how you guys will feel about being called the cul-de-sac crowd, though. But what do I know? Maybe RokChik really is a 40-year-old Roland Parker.

But this is the post I appreciate even more from Gutter.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:51 AM | Permalink | Comments (25)
        

Multi-Media Editor and Resident Cheeseburger Expert John Lindner has been at it again. Yesterday he sent me a list of things he did and didn't do before he got sucked into Dining@Large. I'm proud to have had a hand in his transformation, but I think much of the credit goes to you, faithful readers and posters.

This is the second week in a row that John has sent me fodder for Shallow Thought Wednesday. I'm tempted to create a Shallow Thought Wednesday category (see list on the right), but I'm afraid he'll run out of shallow thoughts.

Here we go:...

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:02 AM | Permalink | Comments (24)
        

Our ever alert features designer Tracey brought me this photo when it appeared on the wires recently. You have to admit Batter Blaster tops Cheeseburger in a Can.

Not because you just point and spray next time you want pancakes or waffles, although that's pretty amazing. I mean, how much trouble is it to mix up some Aunt Jemima? But the part I love is that it's organic. Oh, yeah. ...

Bad news. I went to the Batter Blaster Web site just now, typed in my Zip code, and found that at this time it's not available in my area. The closest store seems to be in Kentucky, or maybe Ohio. No phone or internet orders are taken yet.

The price of a spray can seems to be missing also, but frankly I don't feel like spending a lot of time looking on the Batter Blaster Web site. Cool video demonstration though.

(AP Photo/Marcio Jose Sanchez)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:35 PM | Permalink | Comments (18)
        

I love this topic. Thanks to Dave for introducing it. By the way, Dave, I know the Crisco Kid thing didn't work out for you, but I still think we can come up with a user name that lets us know you're THE Dave.

Last evening we were eating at one of our favorite places, I think we've been going there for 12 years or so, and witnessed a patron's attempt to get a free bottle of wine with their meal.  He presented the server with a hand scribbled note that promised a free bottle on the next visit.  I've know the server for years and on my way to the WC she showed me the note and asked me if I had any idea of who signed it, because the signature was scribbled.  I did not. ...

She had also asked the patron if he could describe the server; he gave some muddled description. We could not figure out who this may have been.  And the patron told her that he had not been in to the restaurant in several years!  The restaurant manager was going to give them a free bottle, but then the owner stepped in and said no.  I've seen some strange situations before, but this was the first free bottle scam I'd ever seen.  I did not search the blog for this topic, but I can imagine there are some incredible stories out there.

I'm sure there are, too, and if any of you has one I hope you'll share it with us. The only story I have is the couple pretending to be Mr. and Mrs. Elizabeth Large.

(Bob Fila/Chicago Tribune/MCT)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:38 PM | Permalink | Comments (25)
        

I saw an ad for this product out of the corner of my eye the other day, and at first was amazed that a) a competitor of Old Bay's would try to sell its product in Maryland and b) it would rip off the look of its box. When I looked closer, I saw it wasn't quite the same seasoning, but it sure looks like the Old Bay can. (For all I know, Zatarain's came first.) I've never seen it around here before, though. Anybody tried it?

Which reminds me of the City Paper's excellent story on "Crab Cakes: Everything You Wanted to Know but Were Too Hungry to Ask" by Henry Hong...

...the cover story of the March 5 issue. I love this sort of wrap up, which isn't easy to pull off.

Great cover, too, using the Old Bay can as a starting point, of course. In fact, my only quibble with it is that he didn't test my favorite storebought cakes from Eddie's of Roland Park, and that may be because he wasn't evaluating crab cakes that you take home and cook yourself.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:43 AM | Permalink | Comments (59)
        

We had to do it. We had to have a Top Ten on Irish places to go for the food, even though St. Patrick's Day is probably the one day you don't want to go to an Irish pub for anything but the drink. Unless you like crazy.

For other recommendations, please look at the comments under my earlier post. And while I didn't include them on my list, there are a couple of decent chains in the area, Tir Na Nog in the Inner Harbor and the new Fado in Annapolis.

If what you're looking for is an authentic Irish pub for drinking, Midnight Sun Sam has posted a list of Irish pubs on his blog.

Here's my list. If you have others to add, please be specific about what you like about them. It's more fun to read that way. ...

* The couple of times I ate at An Poitin Stil in Timonium, both the Irish and the New American food (like the grouper in a potato crust) were quite good. It worries me a little that I've been hearing more about the bands than the food lately.

* Brian Boru in Severna Park is the new sibling of Galway Bay in Annapolis and Killarney House in Davidsonville -- both well-regarded Irish restaurants. It gets the nod because it's the most recently reviewed. LIVE reviewer Karen says the kitchen brings real "culinary finesse" to the Irish food offerings.

* Claddagh in Canton is pretty straightforward about the fact that the feel of the place is Irish and the staff are warmly welcoming, but the food isn't very Irish. The menu highlights are "flavors of the Chesapeake," the steaks and the lamb chops.

* OK, I have to include J. Patrick's in Locust Point on the list. It got some mixed reviews under my earlier post (I like Donny B's passion), but Fairfax's won me over: "small boneless chickens" on the menu (deviled eggs), and they've blacked out Beefeater and Queen Vic on the bottles. Now that's Irish.

* James Joyce in Harbor East does a good job with traditional Irish fare. It's quality comfort food like beef stew, potato soup and fish and chips. Of course, you have to like cabbage. The interior came from the old country so there's lots of atmosphere. 

* The specialty at Life of Reilly (2031 E. Fairmount Ave., Patterson Park, 410-327-6425) is "Baltimore-Irish fusion food," although the Guinness beef stew and the fish and chips are more successful than the chicken Chesapeake. In general, the food is a notch above the usual pub eats.

* Maggie Moore's/Lucy's (21 N. Eutaw St., downtown's west side, 410-837-2100) is in a state of transition. I debated whether to include it because of the uncertainty factor. Still, this is such a beautiful place; and you can still get bar chow, traditional Irish favorites and a nice before-theater dinner here.

* Mick O'Shea's in Mount Vernon is another pub that doesn't focus on Irish food. But traditionalists can get decent bangers and mash, shepherd's pie and fish and chips there.

*When we went to Ryan's Daughter in the Belvedere Square area, I had a cozy seat by the fire and enjoyed the seafood pie, made by a local baker who was a relative of the chef.

* Slainte in Fells Point has a great water location on a cobblestone street, and good traditional Irish fare as well, like a satisfying lamb stew, the oyster po-boy -- wait a minute, its that really Irish? Well, no. But it was a favorite of LIVE reviewer Karen Nitkin.

(John Makely/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:01 AM | Permalink | Comments (49)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

I just got off the phone with Timothy Dean (pictured, center), owner of Timothy Dean Bistro, after leaving a message at his home earlier today. He's out of town, in LA getting his kid off to college, and said he's mystified by all the hoopla surrounding the ad in The Sun over the weekend. The building is not, he said, going to be auctioned.

His wife, who died last year, was his landlord. He's in the process of refinancing and having the property transferred to his company. He said his lawyer is getting in touch with Alex Cooper Auctioneers about the ad.

"Why would I sell a $2 million building for $55,000?" he asked.

Meanwhile, Timothy Dean Bistro is still open for business.

(AP Photo/The Daily Record, Robbie Whelan)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:17 PM | Permalink | Comments (20)
        

I don't know how I missed this, but Fancy Feasts cat food has a line of "restaurant-inspired" meals called Elegant Medleys. Pictured, in case you're curious, is Shredded White Meat Chicken Fare in a Savory Broth With Garden Greens. The line comes in three categories: Florentine, Shredded Fare and Souffles.

I don't know about your cats, but my cats, when I had two cats, only ate garden greens (otherwise known as grass) when they had to throw up a hair ball.

But I digress. I came upon an interesting press release about the launch of the Elegant Medleys line when I was wasting time doing research on the 'net. I wish I had been there. Here are the first few grafs: ...

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:32 AM | Permalink | Comments (30)
        

I decided to start a new feature today called Monday Morning Quarterbacking that will last till we get tired of it or I forget about it.

The idea is that I give you a chance to comment on the restaurant I reviewed the day before, in this case Kali's Court.

I can also show you photos in color if the review ran in black and white. (Yesterday's happened not to, but here they are.)

And finally, I get a chance to add something if I want to that didn't make it into the review, such as...

...the fact that the table pictured above is, I believe, the Kali's Court table mentioned in Baltimore Magazine's Top Restaurants issue as being one of the city's most desirable tables. We were offered it and turned it down because it was a cold night and the table was too near the window. Great location, though. It's tucked away into a little alcove, and it looks out over the courtyard.

(Jed Kirschbaum/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:38 AM | Permalink | Comments (27)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

In case you missed Jay's comment under Girls' Night Out yesterday, he brought it to our attention that there was an ad in the paper for an auction March 25 of the Timothy Dean Bistro property. Dahlink pointed out that the Fells Point restaurant was no longer listed on Open Table.

I called last night at around 10:30 p.m., and it was crazy loud. I asked the woman who answered how long they would be open (meaning in business), and she said, "Eleven."

I figured I wasn't going to get anywhere with that and decided to try to reach Dean on Monday. Stay tuned.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:55 PM | Permalink | Comments (7)
        

Baltimore foodies having been wondering what Abacrombie, once one of our finest restaurants, is like under its new management. After it and the bed and breakfast that housed it were sold, the dining room had a couple of false starts and then finally closed. Diners who ate there during that period sometimes had some pretty bad experiences. I actually wondered if it would ever reopen.

But now Jerry Pellegrino, owner of Corks in Federal Hill, has taken over the restaurant and is working with Jesse Sandlin as executive chef and Greta Clausen as general manager. The question is whether they will be able to duplicate the success of former owner/chef Sonny Sweetman. He’s a hard act to follow.

Find out what I think in my review in next week’s Arts & Life Today section.

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:56 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)
Categories: Review Preview
        

 
It was raining hard when I got to the Waverly Farmers Market this morning, but the vendors and customers were out in force.

I've been getting to the market late the last few Saturdays, and today was no exception. Last week Uptown Bakers (pictured) turned me away because, the nice woman told me, someone had just bought the last two loaves of the casareccio bread I was craving. I couldn't believe it: Today as I walked up, some guy was buying what I thought were the last two loaves of casareccio again. I thought briefly of tackling him to the ground, grabbing them and running.

I'm glad I restrained myself. It turned out there was one more after all.  This is a chewy Italian loaf, full of air holes, that's well worth taking someone out over. I shouldn't even be telling you about it, or there won't be any for me next week.

You've still got till noon before the market closes, and you'll probably find more there then you expect this time of year, including flowers.

On another subject, the guy who was...

...buying my loaves of casareccio had brought his reusable bags from Whole Foods to carry his purchases in.

I've been worrying about the etiquette of this. The new blue, green and red design is so pretty (and cheap at 99 cents), I bought three of them last time I was at Whole Foods; but I haven't been back since so they sit in my trunk.

I'm shy about taking them into another store, but I don't want to buy each store's "green" bags. That doesn't seem very ecologically sound. 

I can just see the  register woman at  SuperFresh saying, "We don't accept those bags for use." It would be mortifying.

(Photos by me) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:54 AM | Permalink | Comments (33)
        

Baltimore Foodies, a group readers of this blog may know best because of their audacious foie gras dinner at Salt, is having a dinner at Abacrombie Monday night to honor female restaurateurs and chefs. I'm embarrassed to admit I hadn't kept track of how many important ones we had.

Cindy Wolf, Nancy Longo and Donna Crivello get the press because they've been around a while, but with this multi-course wine dinner you'll get to know host chef Jesse Sandlin (pictured on the left, with Abacrombie general manager Greta Clausen) and guest chefs Jill Snyder of Red Maple and Bettina Clair from Bicycle.
 
On the wine side, Laurie Forster, the Wine Coach and a female wine maker, and Francoise Le Calvez from France will be attending. Wines from the latter's estate, Chateau Coupe Roses will be served. ....

Other female chefs will be available for guests to interact with during the meal.
 
Tentatively scheduled to attend are Nancy Longo (Pierpoint), Ann Nault (Taste), Lisa Heckman (Iggies) and AnneMarie Langton (Helen's Garden). Baltimore Foodies is waiting on confirmations from several others.

I don't know if any seats will still be available for the event when you read this; when I checked just now, four still were.

(Jed Kirschbaum/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:57 AM | Permalink | Comments (4)
        

Ever vigilant Sun reader Voodoo Pork has asked me why the blog didn't have an insightful commentary on the recent story about the proposed bill to ban trans fat in restaurant food, a question I am not prepared to answer at this time.

Since even Cheetos no longer contain trans fat, it hardly seems a problem worth discussing, let alone enacting a bill about.

However, my favorite part of the story is that the legislation currently calls for no penalties for violators.

The sign to the right is from the Princeton Web site, and presumably its dining services, showing that even a respected institution of higher learning has gotten sucked into this. I mean, do it but don't brag about it.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:59 PM | Permalink | Comments (20)
        

When I was trekking around downtown Towson, I came across a place I had discovered and then forgotten all about, Towson Hot Bagels (16 Allegheny Ave., 410-337-0006).

It has nothing in the way of atmosphere and the service can be iffy, but oh, man, these are good bagels. ...

Now faithful readers know that I don't pretend to be a bagel aficionado (the way, say, I think I am about cornbread, which has to be made with no sugar and with white cornmeal).

I'm happy to agree with you that these aren't authentic New York bagels. They probably aren't dense enough for some people. But you'll never talk me out of enjoying their warm, fat goodness.

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:39 PM | Permalink | Comments (4)
        

OK, I haven't picked "Recycling"; I just needed something to give you an idea of what I want to do for the second post of the day during my road trip. If you don't know what we're talking about, see the post just below this.

The following is a post from the second day of the blog, April 19, 2007, with comments. It was before my daughter commanded that I have photos. The problem with posting it now is that you guys aren't going to leave me with any words to write a review. I'll just have to use stars and a photo:

Randy Richardson in Carroll County posted a comment yesterday thanking me for not using "impeccably fresh" and "tender crisp" in every review. I immediately went to the Sun's computer archives, of course, to see just how often I had used them since 1992, which is as far back as the archives go...

I'm embarrassed to admit "tender crisp" came up 41 times. (Fewer times early in the '90s, maybe because restaurants were overcooking their vegetables more often then.) "Impeccably fresh" appeared 11 times, but only two times in this millennium and not at all in the past couple of years.

Still, it got me to thinking about how hard it is (and how important it is) to come up with new language to describe food qualities, especially when the restaurant isn't either thrilling or really awful. One of my favorite food writers, Calvin Trillin, once commented on high-falutin' restaurant criticism by saying something like BUT DID IT TASTE GOOD?

On the other hand, the editor of a former LIVE restaurant critic got so bored she had to order the freelancer not to use the word "good" to describe food. I hope I fall somewhere in between. I'm pretty good at avoiding Elegant Variation -- using mollusks to refer to oysters, for instance -- but I do have trouble sometimes figuring out a new way to say the fish is fresh or the vegetables aren't overcooked. And that's what people need to know.

Anybody have any other phrases they hate to see in restaurant criticism? Please post below.

Posted by Elizabeth Large on April 19, 2007 6:27 AM | Permalink
                     
Comments

I find the 2 most useless words in reviews to be "exquisite" and "exotic." Both words are really only meaningful to the beholder.

I enjoy your reviews (not to pander here) because you say what the food is, how it presented, how it tastes and, also very importantly, what the whole experience was.

My wife and I went to a certain highly regarded place in Hunt Valley and spent a LOT of money on good food that was "exquisite," but were treated like idiots or ignored altogether by the wait staff. We were told this was typical but it really ruined our experience.

Recently, based on a review from you, we went to another highly regarded restaurant in the city where we also spent a LOT of money but were also very impressed by the attentive but not intrusive wait staff.

So I sort of agree with your writer - I would much rather get details that avoid "trendy-isims," but, at the same time, the more descriptive - even if not exciting - the review the better.

Posted by: TWD | April 19, 2007 12:01 PM

I despise the overused term "to perfection" as in "grilled to perfection."

Posted by: Catherine | April 19, 2007 3:52 PM

I'm not a fan of the term "succulent" in reviews, but my beef is not with critical lingo, but with menu lingo. I'm sick of reductions, and dishes "infused with" such-and-such. And what's with expensive restaurants using "pea tendrils" all the time? I do, however, love the words fingerling, ratatouille, bouillabaisse, couscous, and kumquat.

Posted by: Kate | April 20, 2007 8:51 PM

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:19 AM | Permalink | Comments (17)
        

...have not a link, because that might discourage some dilettante readers, but an actual copy of an early Dining@Large post that I liked and was sad that it didn't get much discussion. Top Tens, though, are probably already outdated.

And then for those readers who want to suffer with us on the road trip, when I have internet access (I sound as if I'm going to darkest Africa), posts about the journey.

From you I need a great title for this series of repeat posts. You know, Postcards From the Past. (OK, gag.) Let's get to work here.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:56 AM | Permalink | Comments (21)
        

As he mentioned in a post, Midnight Sun Sam shot these photos for me the day it was 71 degrees and sunny. In other words, he used me as an excuse to get out of the office.

That's OK. He brought me a menu from the Parthenon Diner at 8 Park Ave. (pictured). It's open 24/7.

Then I've been talking to management at Baltimore Pho in the Hollins Market area and Saute Restaurant in Canton, which are both now open. More details in my next couple of Table Talk columns. ...

As you can see from the photo below, work on Joss Cafe (the Baltimore branch of the Annapolis sushi place) is proceeding. It will take up two floors of the building, with apartments above.

The Catonsville Gourmet Market & Fine Foods at 829 Frederick Road is scheduled to open next month. (It will be a seafood restaurant as well as a store.)

And then I got this interesting e-mail. Anybody know anything about it? Take a look at the Web site.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:29 PM | Permalink | Comments (6)
        

As Dining@Large's first year draws to a close, I have some advice for new readers who want to post comments. Choose a user name carefully. Going back to look at the first comments, I see that people used names like Catherine and Bill and Kate, and are probably bitterly regretting it now -- except for HelloWorld who had this insightful observation under a post on peppermint ice cream:

Peace people We love you

But I digress. My point is, regular contributors have learned that it's good to have a user name that differentiates them from other posters, such as Robert of Cross Keys, Piano Rob, Robert the Single One, and so on. Some have decided they simply wanted to spread their wings a bit after a few months and have taken on new personae...

Darlene has become Darlink, Janet has become Rosebud. Even Owl Meat was once someone more prosaic. If Hal Laurent had realized where this was going when he innocently typed in his user name the first time, he might have called himself Descartes instead of having to refer to himself as Hal Laurent (V of R) for Voice of Reason. I forgot to mention Eric. I can't even remember why he's Eric (P.O.G.) now.

You see where I'm going with this. Choose creatively. Choose well. And remember, Voodoo Pork is already taken.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:56 AM | Permalink | Comments (45)
Categories: Commenting
        

I wanted to post another part of Claire's e-mail (see previous post about Tio Pepe) because it raised a question that I think deserves a separate thread.

I know I've addressed the star ratings system on this blog before; but for the sake of newer readers, it doesn't hurt to talk about it one more time. Here's the relevant part of the e-mail: ...

Dear Ms. Large, sometimes when I read reviews I wonder why the words and the rating do not seem to match. Ra Sushi was a case in point. I quite understand the atmosphere rating of 2 stars and I am sure it was because of the loud music. You do your readers quite a favor to warn them of that. However, I was surprised you gave them 3 stars for food after reading your review. I would have thought that 2 or 2 1/2 was more appropriate based on what you wrote.

What I told her was that I, and probably every other critic, would be just as happy if we never had to assign another star.

I spend 1,000 words carefully explaining what I like and don't like about a place, and then I have to sum it up in a few stars. It's unfair to the restaurant and unfair to me to use them as anything more than a very rough guide. For instance, two stars can mean everything I had was just "fair," or it can mean I had some great dishes and some not so great -- in other words, "uneven," which is a very different thing. If you know what to order at the latter restaurant or if you just luck out, you could have a fabulous meal.  But people seem to love the star system, so I don't see its going away any time soon.

I'm also more generous with stars if a place isn't expensive, which was the case with RA. But in any case, there are times when no matter how many or how few stars I assign, it doesn't seem to be quite right.

(Karl Merton Ferron/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:12 AM | Permalink | Comments (11)
        

 
I have a friend whose  Irish husband tells her, "Never eat the cuisine of a country with a history of famine."
I can see his point after visiting Ireland a couple of years ago. The highly touted New Irish cuisine just isn't, well, that Irish. (However, I can put away my share of potatoes, cabbage, corned beef and the like so I shouldn't be so uppity about it.)

Anyway, I don't see how we can avoid doing Top Ten Irish Pubs next Tuesday, but so as not to step on Midnight Sun Sam's toes, it will have to be the Top Ten for...

...food, not drink.

I'm going to need some help on this one because I'm not the one that usually reviews Irish pubs. And when I do, something happens like Maggie Moore's (pictured) turning into Lucy's. 

 (Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:35 PM | Permalink | Comments (48)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

Let me repeat Piano Rob's comment here:

Rosebud - Oh, I shan't give up on the idea of a D@L Bloggers Party. I checked with Calendar (a sort of mini-Book a la RtSO) and he seems to think that sometime post-Easter pre-April Fool's Day might be fun. That's eight days from which to choose, fellow Big Ace Bloggers, 3/23-31. I now open the sandbox's floor to suggestions such as day, place, time, cocktails alone or dinner too, and the like. Rosebud, hopefully you'll help me organize? Perhaps our Fearless Leader will grace us with our own thread ... 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:57 PM | Permalink | Comments (67)
        

This e-mail from Claire got me thinking about how restaurants stay successful. Do they have to change with the times?

Ms. Large, you would do me  a real favor if you could explain to me what the food critics seem to think is the problem at Tio Pepe. I eat there frequently and have for 30 years.  I don't often order meat, but I love their seafood and every thing else they serve. I have eaten there long enough to order things not even on the menu. The crowds would indicate I am not alone. You did not rate them well the last time you were there ( 2 1/2 stars for food) and Baltimore Magazine has completely dropped them from their Top 40 or Top 50 which is absurd.  They are Spanish cuisine - they are not going to serve small bites, or sushi or anything else that seems so popular. They are serving the same food one would get in Spain.  It is the same food they served when they were "Number One" in Baltimore for so long.  What in the world is wrong that the critics seem so down on them? . If you knew how depressed they get with Balto Mag or a bad review you would never believe it.  If you could try to explain the problem to me, it would be most welcome.  I guess I know how good they are and realize that many of the "stars" today may not be there 30 years later like they are. ...

I should start by saying I was surprised as well that Tio's didn't make Baltimore magazine's Top 41. I wonder if that's because it's so under the radar these days.

I have a good time when I eat there, which isn't very often these days. It's always seemed to me a very festive place, and I've never had to wait a long time for my reservation or been overlooked in favor of regular customers -- two criticisms I used to hear.

But it is a restaurant people seem to love or hate. (I wrote about this phenomenon in an earlier blog entry.) Those of us who have lived in this area for a long time and remember when it was the special occasion restaurant have a special fondness for Tio's that has less to do with the food and more with the mood it evokes -- although many of the dishes are wonderful.

I'd like to hear what people who are relative newcomers or who are 20- or 30-somethings think about it. Do you even know what it is or have any desire to go?

Tio Pepe isn't a place that's trying to stay au courant, which can be a good thing. But is it getting lost in the shuffle of Cinghiales and Woodberry Kitchens?

If you feel like telling us what you like or dislike about Tio's, please be as specific as possible. It makes for more interesting reading that way. 

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:14 PM | Permalink | Comments (47)
        

I ran into someone at the gym this morning who has a 19-month-old. The conversation quickly turned to where you go if you want to eat out with an infant around here.

I know a 19-month-old is no longer an infant; but I was thinking about this because of what happened when I took my mother-in-law out to lunch at her favorite restaurant, Clyde's in DC, last weekend. Next to us was a weeks-old baby who was miserable. Therefore his mom and his grandmother were miserable. I felt sorry for them but not angry because it was Clyde's -- not, say, the Prime Rib.

There are restaurants where it seems OK to bring an infant, and others where I shudder when I see the baby carriage even if...

...the infant never makes a peep. It isn't always the obvious places either. I think for some reason that Woodberry Kitchen, which this guy was asking about, wouldn't mind if you brought a baby, even though it's still a place for scenesters.

He, however, told me he and his wife were going to the Golden West in Hampden these days rather than their favorite Black Olive in Fells Point. Probably wise. I wish I had had more recommendations for him.

Of course, now that I have a grown kid I tend to side with the people who would like you to get a baby sitter, thank you very much.

It was tough, by the way, coming up with any art for this. I put in keywords "baby" and "restaurant" and got a lot of photos of baby lettuce and baby octopus. 

(Sun archives/1996) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:05 PM | Permalink | Comments (57)
        

Ah, the miracle of spring. These tiny flowers have randomly poked their heads up near our front door. No one planted them there. Their joyous rebirth has started me thinking about this most hopeful season of the year.

Among other things. ...

* How great would it be if local restaurants that have good outdoor seating would invest in propane (or whatever) heaters and open their patios really early.

* It's about time for my spring guilty pleasure: shad fillet thickly coated with Durkee Famous Sauce and then stuck under the broiler until the sauce gets bubbly and golden brown in spots. What makes it a truly guilty pleasure is usually the rest of the bottle of Durkee gets tossed when I find it in the back of the fridge in July.

* Does Samos leave its phone off the hook? Is that why the line is always busy?

* Does it make economic sense to buy a bottle of wine in a restaurant and take all but one glass home, or is it better to get a glass of wine even though the markup is higher and buy a bottle at your discount liquor store?

* Asparagus tastes better if I use a potato peeler to peel the stalks. So why can't I be bothered anymore?

* How funny is it that the winner of the Food Network's Ultimate Recipe Showdown in the comfort food category is a manager at Chili's. His recipe for a chipotle grilled steak sandwich gets him $25,000 and a spot exclusively on T.G.I. Friday's nationwide menu.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:18 AM | Permalink | Comments (44)
        

This Top Ten was an interesting exercise for me, because these aren't necessarily the best restaurants I reviewed since the beginning of last year. That would be another Top Ten. These are places that for whatever reason, I would be willing to return to on my own dime.

That means they can't be very expensive, because I spend too much of The Sun's money on fine dining to think it's worth doing on my own in Baltimore. I also try to eat a certain way when I'm not working, a way that's good for me, involving a lot of vegetables, not much in the way of fried foods and fairly simple presentations. OK, I cheat. But not too much.

Here's my list: ... 

* Abacrombie near the Meyerhoff. My husband had the pompano with crab meat and bearnaise. I want it this time, all to myself.

* b Bistro in Bolton Hill. I'd like to go back when I can eat outdoors under the big trees.

* Cinghiale in Harbor East. I want to sit at the bar in the enoteca, drink good wine, and eat small plates.

* Dogwood in Hampden. I wish I could tell you I'm going back to support a good cause, but it's really because I liked our food.

* Junior's Wine Bar in Federal Hill. What's not to like with the small, seasonal menu, emphasis on wine and good-looking space?

* Lebanese Taverna in Harbor East. A fine balance of moderately priced, good food and handsome surroundings.

* Minato in Mount Vernon. Its newly jazzy space isn't for everyone, but I like it; and the food is as good as ever.

* Tabrizi's in Harborview. I'm nostalgic for the old Tabrizi's, and found much that reminded me of it at the new.

* Three... (2901 E. Baltimore St., Highlandtown, 410-327-3333) I had the feeling that this restaurant was going to improve with age, and I'd like to see how it's doing. If this place has a Web site, point me to it, because it's impossible to Google.

* Woodberry Kitchen. I really like the space, and the food, while not flawless, is worth a second trip. I'm looking forward to the oysters and bread in particular.

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:38 AM | Permalink | Comments (27)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

Thanks to Ryan97ou for letting us know that former Sun staffer and current excellent crime novelist and TV star Laura Lippman has started writing about restaurants for the food blog Serious Eats. I knew about it because blog creator Ed Levine told me awhile back that his wife is Laura's literary agent and she had promised to blog for him, but he didn't know when she would start.

Laura isn't going to be writing about Maryland restaurants exclusively -- she made that clear in her first post. I'll try to keep track of when she does talk about local places and give you a heads up.

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:12 PM | Permalink | Comments (83)
        

My daughter e-mailed me this little gem with the subject line "Technically, it's a food piece."

It's the March 3 entry from her Worst-Case Scenario Daily Survival Calendar. I'm not sure what this has to do with survival, but ...

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:42 AM | Permalink | Comments (22)
        

This winter's trendy apple seems to be the Pink Lady. Remember when it was the Fuji, and before that the Granny Smith?

By trendy, I mean that Pink Ladies are having a greater presence in supermarkets and are showing up on restaurant menus. I can think of a couple of them off the top of my head: Victoria Gastro Pub in Columbia had Pink Apple compote and another dish or two made from them, and the newly opened Abacrombie offers a salad of frisee, Pink Lady apple slices and Camembert.

The Pink Lady is a relatively new variety developed in Western Australia, a cross between... 

...a Golden Delicious and a Lady Williams. The Pink Lady's tart-sweet flavor isn't much like a Golden Delicious; that must be the Lady Williams in it coming out.

I'll have to see if Dave Reid, the owner of Reid's at the Waverly Farmers Market, grows Lady Williams. I've never seen one, although he does have Pink Ladies. They've been around in supermarkets, too, for the past couple of years.

Up until now my favorite hybrid has been the Honeycrisp, but the Pink Lady is right up there.

For a really cutting-edge apple, look for the Sundowner. It's the other commercially viable apple to come out of crossing Golden Delicious with Lady Williams. I've never seen it around either, but the Pink Lady America Web site says it's very good. 

I'm not sure what makes a particular variety the Apple of the Moment. I guess it must be an aggressive marketing campaign, although I haven't noticed any ads for Pink Ladies. One thing that certainly helps is a good name. I'm not sure I want to eat a Cat's Head or a Gray Stark. (Yes, both real apple varieties.)

I did learn from the Pink Lady America Web site that there is going to be a "wide range of new apples" coming to the market in the next five to ten years. I'll have to keep an eye out for them. 

(Photo courtesy of PinkLadyAmerica.org)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:52 AM | Permalink | Comments (17)
        

Next Sunday I go back to Kali's Court, the upscale seafood restaurant in Fells Point, to see how new executive chef Damon Hersh is or isn't changing things. He's the chef who made his name in Baltimore by opening Louisiana, also in Fells Point.

The shrimp dish pictured is still on the menu under Hersh, but the photo is from the archives because the ones for this review haven't been shot yet.

Read my review in next Sunday's Arts & Life Today to find out more. 

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:29 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)
Categories: Review Preview
        

Here's the rest of Terrier Mom's e-mail. However, I think Phyllis has the answer if you scroll down to her comment under the previous post:

Jennie-O Turkey Store Boneless Breast Homestyle - 2.75 Lb 
 
You probably thought it was soup.
Where is the turkey?  If you look closely it is about 80% down the list
as 'dehydrated turkey'.  Homestyle?  Maybe in Dr. Mengele's home.
What kind of sick process do they put this poor thing through?
It's so WEIRD!
  

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:05 AM | Permalink | Comments (6)
        

If you read my story in today's Go Today section, you know that I spent an afternoon (a very cold and windy one) tromping around Towson.

I'm always struck by the fact that only one reasonably upscale restaurant, Cafe Troia, has been able to make it in Towson proper. (By that I mean places I could walk to comfortably from Towson Commons.) It really is a college town. The good thing about that is... 

 ...the number of sushi restaurants (sushi is the pizza of this generation of college students), with a smattering of Thai, Chinese and Indian. Towson is the closest thing we have to a Little Asia.

What else do I like? Well, Zia's is a nice natural foods cafe, and I like the Kebob Hut for its freshly made pita and personable owner. I want Paolo's to be better than it is, but I've heard more positive things about it recently since I reviewed it. The Melting Pot is a quintessential date restaurant (just take a look at the customers pictured on its Web site), but isn't a place I'd ever go to if I weren't reviewing. And then there's the offbeat Fresh Fresh, the small seafood restaurant on York Road where everything is made from scratch -- but don't go if you're in a rush.

But restaurants have come and gone that I thought could make it on that stretch of York Road -- a Latino one, a Greek place. (I can't remember the name of either of them right now -- was the Greek one Mykonos?) A Donna's restaurant came and went on Allegheny.

There are an awful lot of people with disposable income living in Towson or not far from it. Why can't they support more good restaurants?
 

(Doug Kapustin/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:03 PM | Permalink | Comments (26)
        

Terrier Mom sent me this e-mail. Care to take a guess what this quite common food is? It's the ingredients, not the food, that are weird, if you know what I mean. No fair cheating by checking the 'net. Just read the ingredients carefully and post your best guess. Hint: No, it's not Hot Pockets.

I was shopping the other and found the strangest food. 
It should have been very basic, but when I looked at the ingredients,
I was horrified.  Here's the ingredients from their web site: ... 

Ingredients :Solution: Water, Seasoning (Rice Starch, Natural Flavor, Butter Flavor (Maltodextrin, Natural Flavor, Butter Oil), Dehydrated Turkey Broth, Onion Powder, Autolyzed Yeast Extract, Salt, Spice Extractive), Sodium Phosphate ,Salt, Sugar. Rubbed With: Salt, Natural Flavor, Butter Flavor (Maltodextrin, Natural Flavor, Butter Oil), Sugar, Dextrose, Dehydrated Turkey Broth, Spices, Onion Powder, Paprika (Color), Garlic Powder, Extractive of Turmeric (Color). Gravy: Wheat Flour, Modified Food Starch, Salt, Chicken Fat, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sugar, Natural and Artificial Flavors (Contain Torula Yeast), Butter (Cream, Salt), Turkey Broth, Dehydrated Turkey, Maltodextrin, Onion Powder, Nonfat Milk Solids, Caramel Color, Autolyzed Yeast Extract, Spices, Garlic Powder, Xanthan Gum, Turkey Fat, Disodium Inosinate, Disodium Guanylate, Coconut Oil.

Extra points if you can tell us what spice extractive and Disodium Guanylate are without looking them up. Actually, when I was in my health food phase, I used to stir torula yeast into my orange juice until one day I said to myself, "This really ruins the taste of orange juice" and after that I gave it up.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:25 PM | Permalink | Comments (47)
        

The other night my husband and I were eating at a nice restaurant, and he ordered a glass of sauvignon blanc. When he got it, there just didn't seem to be enough of it in its beautiful stemware.

I'm not naming the restaurant because this was the only time it happened, and his second glass, a cab, was fine.  But it annoyed him a little, and I got to wondering if there's anything to be done about this.

If an expensive restaurant serves small portions of food, at least it's consistent. But a...

...glass of wine isn't measured, it's just poured by a bartender, who may be rushed and not paying enough attention.

It's funny how the right amount of wine in a glass is just right. (Remember how some restaurants where wine wasn't a priority used to serve you a glass filled to the brim? That never felt right either.)

Maybe my husband should have spoken up, but I was glad he didn't. It seems awkward to say, "I want more wine in the glass" as if you're a greedy child. Or maybe people do speak up. I'm always trying to stay as inconspicuous as possible.

(Chicago Tribune photo by Bob Fila)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:36 AM | Permalink | Comments (25)
Categories: Wine and Spirits