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February 17, 2008

Next Sunday's review

JuniorsRavioliThe wait for Junior’s Wine Bar to open in Federal Hill has been a long one.  This is the restaurant located where Vespa once was, and at first glance there are many similarities. For one thing, Junior’s co-owner  and executive chef, Mike Russell, is the chef who opened Vespa. Like its predecessor, Junior’s offers moderately priced bistro fare and an affordable wine list.

But the renovations that took so long have also made it a very different place. The back has been opened up so this is a much larger restaurant.

The focus has broadened, too. No longer is the emphasis completely on Italian food and wine, which gives Russell more latitude to show his range. 

To see what I thought of our meal there, please look for my review in next Sunday’s Arts & Life Today section.

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:45 AM | | Comments (1)
Categories: Review Preview
        

Comments

Went to Juniors last Saturday night. The restaurant was full and the staff seemed overwhelmed. Our server was polite but a little rusty. We were seated within 5 min. of our reservation and received our drinks within about 10 min. Appetizers came shortly thereafter and were greeted with mixed emotions. We ordered the spring rolls and the spicy lentil and pancetta soup. Not bad but not great. Then the wait began.....

Our meal took an unbelievably long time. So long in fact, that our waitress took our first drinks of the bill. When the food finally came, the unseasoned Cornish Game Hen was raw and the Kobe burger was well down (ordered medium rare).Additionally, the sides were abysmal. Uncooked steak fries and soggy polenta cake does not a great meal make. I brought the raw poultry to the attention of the manager, who apologetically took it off the bill.

Best part of the dinner was the wine. Although it should be noted that for a wine bar, there isn’t much wine offered. The staff was nice, they are trying hard but there is not doubt that as a whole the restaurant comes up far short. Someone call Gordon Ramsay, the kitchen needs help.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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