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February 3, 2008

Next Sunday's review

VictoriaGastroI want you to forget about the name Victoria Gastro Pub for a minute. Yes, it's a bit medical-sounding, but just be glad that Columbia has another independent upscale casual restaurant. It's an area that routinely votes Clyde's as most popular restaurant in the Zagat surveys. Nothing against Clyde's, but that does suggest chains are the norm, not the exception in the area.

I won't tell you how our meal went until next Sunday in the Arts & Life Today section, but I will say the menu is as offbeat as the name -- not quite pub food, not quite fine dining.

Too bad Victoria is located in a former Bennigan's. I imagine most people just assume it's another chain they hadn't heard of before.

 

(Doug Kapustin/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:34 PM | | Comments (20)
Categories: Review Preview
        

Comments

Columbia is to cities what chains are to restaurants. They are sterile places that prize predictability over originality.

(Yes, I know mocking Columbia while living in Cross Keys makes me a bit of hypocrite.)

Actually, Columbia is just a big food court where you drive between stalls, not walk.

True, Robert, Columbia has plenty of chains. But it also has plenty of great independent places.

Plus, the benefit of a massive number of chains is that it makes it easier to get into the good independent restaurants!

The dreadful name gives me an idea. I notice that April 1 is on a Tuesday. How about worst restaurant names?

An excellent idea.

I agree with both the Roberts.

I hate going to chain restaurants. That's one of the reasons why I rarely eat in Columbia.

The other is, I can't find anything in Columbia.

Columbia has many smaller, independant Asian restaurants. There are several I would love to try, but I'm with Sam Sessa, it's too hard to find anything in Columbia.

I don't even know where to begin with how pedestrian unfriendly this neighborhood association called Columbia is - and yes it is quite sterile for any urbanite. Even their newer developments off the Rouse parkway where they have Lowe's, Mimi's Cafe, and Trader Joe's, are still centered only one mode of transportation - the car. I've actually seen people cross Rt. 175 - not like going over MLK Blvd or President St I think, but more like crossing I-95 or I-83.

Eric: whilst not wanting to overstep Mr. Gunts' architecture column,consider what Eastern Howard County would be like if Columbia had not been built. You only have to look at Liberty Road, Reisterstown Road, York Road, or Belair Road to know that with all its faults, what is there is better than what would have been.

RTSO (if you don't mind my abbreviation): True, Columbia, is much better off than comparisons - safer, cleaner, alive (debatable), etc. (I actually lived in Columbia for a few years), but having grown up in a city (not Baltimore, but think BIGGER and more crowded), my love for walking, the convenience without having to contribute greenhouse gases, and the desire to be surrounded by endless arrays of eating places within a mile's radius of my house, this planned community was a huge lifestyle change - for the better? I'm not so sure.

I also lived near Liberty Rd, post college, and at least I can see the gas stations and other commercial establishments when I drive by (same goes for Rt. 40 in Ellicott City and Rockville Pike in Rockville) on the road unlike Columbia's design.

(Sorry, Elizabeth for turning your blog into urban planning.)

Eric: I would like to pursue this, but the Lady Elizabeth is threatening to beat me about the head with a joint of meat (required food reference) so ...

Columbia is scary, it's fake like Disney World. Truman World. I get lost every time I go there, everything looks the same. And yes, the Clyde's there is fine, but not as good as the original, or the one in Friendship Heights, or the one known as Tower Oaks Lodge - those are warm places, the Columbia Clyde's just simply isn't warm. There's something about Columbia that just sucks the soul out of everything. The Victoria gastro clinic would have to have something really special to get a city girl there. But perhaps it will be good for the Columbia folks to get something a little less empty in their 'hood; that is, if it's like that.

Wow, how about a little love for Columbia and the rest of HoCo from our neighbors to the north?

Sure, it's a little hard to find places...and it's not a walkable town. Hey, buy a GPS, they work wonders...:-)

While I live in HoCo, I work in Baltimore, and get out to plenty of good restaurants in both. Terisguels and Elkirdge Furance Inn are as good if not better than most places in Baltimore. House of India is better than most Indian places in Baltimore (but not the Ambassador!). Asean Bistro pretty much blows away most Pan-Asian places in the area.

Columbia - "scary?" Please!

Having been an urbanite for most of my life (and lived in some culinary wonderments such as Montreal, Seattle, and San Francisco)...yes, much of Columbia is mega-chain hell, but there's also Iron Bridge, King's Contrivance, Cafe de Paris, and Aida Bistro. You just have to look a bit harder to find the gems. You can eat well in Columbia without setting foot in a chain; it may take some work and a bit of courage, but it can be done.

Without trying to start a s***storm, that list of places missed...most, I'm guessing, were independently run places (which are always the lifeblood of any town); this influx of chains can't be blamed as some 'Columbia' problem; look at the Inner Harbour or really, many thriving neighbourhoods; where people move in, chains follow.

Ellicott City and Columbia are NOT the same. When I first discovered Fredrick Rd (Main St.) in Ellicott City, I thought I was somewhere out west in some cool frontier town. Fast forward a few years, heck, my wife and I even got engaged after a very lovely dinner in Tersiguel's where I popped the question off this tiny bridge over Tiber Creek in a secluded park... I'm not sure I can find a similar, beautiful experience in the Mall of Columbia.

Oh I know, in the spirit of this Hallmark holiday on the 14th, how about a top 10 places to get engaged in?

I'm looking forward to this review since I have to figure out a place to take a business friend for lunch in Columbia on the 11th.
Sam and others, my theory on the reason you get lost in Columbia is bc in most places when you're giving directions you would say: turn left at the lake/second roundabout/park, or at the street with the funny 'tree'/longwinded double name. But in Columbia, all these landmarks are present everywhere making it hard to distinguish which way to turn!

I agree that Columbia is pretty much a hateful place. Planned community run amok.

BUT.....

You have got to give it up for the few amazing independent places there. Sushi Sono is the best sushi joint ANYWHERE, and Asean Bistro (Jesse Wong's first endeavor, I believe) is my number one restaurant period. I had my wedding reception there!

I am as freaked out by Columbia as anyone else, but I will put up with anything for those two restaurants!

I can find one good thing to say about Howard County. It is not Montgomery County.

"I can find one good thing to say about Howard County. It is not Montgomery County." - not yet, but it will be very soon; just look at the developments in Fulton - it's Rockville in the making.

So, Elizabeth, I am looking forward the Victoria review :)

Interesting. I usually get zero comments on this regular Sunday blog feature.

We've been in Columbia for 35 years and can remember when the only place to eat was a drugstore counter in one of the villages or a Roy rogers on Rt. 40. Now that everything is here, it's great. Whenever I am out and about, I am happy to give directions to the tourists. Hey, I get lost in Gaithersburg.

About Victoria Gastro Pub, you did not mention the lobster and brie grilled cheese sandwich served with a lovely spinach salad. A weeks worth of calories, but worth it. I am having a birthday brunch there next week and they were very accomodating about the private room and exciting menu.

Also try Tokyo Cafe in Wilde Lake Village Center. Excellent Thai, Japanese and sushi with free delivery within a certain range.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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