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January 24, 2008

Hot new trend...Italian?

Brasselephant.jpgI just learned that the Brass Elephant in Mount Vernon has a new chef (more about him in next Wednesday's Table Talk) and, as of the beginning of March, will introduce a new menu of Italian dishes. 

What's interesting about that is the Brass Elephant made its mark in Baltimore as a northern Italian restaurant, and then gradually morphed into what it is now -- most accurately described, I guess, as New American with some Italian accents. 

That got me thinking about the Charleston Group's opening a traditional Italian restaurant as its latest project (Cinghiale)...

...and Pazza Luna in Locust Point, where the owner is trying to recreate a traditional Italian trattoria with considerable success. Come to think of it, Sammy's Trattoria in Mount Vernon is probably the restaurant that's done best in that particular location -- and there have been several of them.

Who would have guessed that Italian might be the Next Big Thing in Baltimore?

(Gene Sweeney Jr./Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:21 AM | | Comments (1)
        

Comments

I guess everything old ends up new again?

Personally, I think it's great. I'd much rather try a new place that's dedicated to cooking the best traditional cuisine than a place that'll do a mediocre job with a crazy, but new, concept.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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