In defense of chains
An ongoing discussion on this blog has been whether chains should be included in Top Ten Tuesday recommendations.
I understand the reasons not to include them: They get enough publicity as is, local places deserve my support, etc. All of which I agree with. It was years before I started reviewing chains...
...and that was only because I realized if I didn't, I'd be ignoring places that half my readership wanted to know about.
But now I think there are more positive things to be said about chain restaurants. Although they are never my first choice because I love small, personal places, I try to appreciate the virtues of the decent ones like McCormick & Schmick's, P.F. Chang's and Bonefish Grill. The quality of the food at upscale chains can be quite good. The service is often fine because they have the resources to train their staff. And these are often handsome restaurants.
And they are a known quantity. I'm one terrible fried seafood platter away from heading for the St. Pete Bennigan's.
Ha ha. Just kidding.
I should do a Top Ten Chain Restaurants.
Speaking of which, I need to come up with a Top Ten for next Tuesday. I'll only have next Monday to work on it, a day when some restaurants are closed, so many of the ideas on my list that involve calling won't work. Suggestions welcome.
(Kenneth K. Lam/Sun photographer)










Comments
Chains are a great place to eat for the unimaginative creature. Quality is uniform while being as cheap as possible - two word that are not synonymous.
As a general rule, I don't eat at chain restaurants. I'd rather suffer through a week of fried seafood platters than ever subject myself to "Begin Agains."
During a recent trip to Tokyo, a friend was so "homesick" for familiar foods (we had only been out of country for one week), he wanted to go to Outback Steakhouse. I wouldn't eat at Outback in Hunt Valley, much less the Outback in Tokyo.
Instead, I went out for A5 Wagyu.
Don't do it Elizabeth. There's nothing compelling about chain restaurants. There are plenty of small, independent restaurants and eateries more deserving of column inches than any of the chains.
Posted by: Jay C. | January 10, 2008 8:26 AM
How about the Cheesecake Factory? While they are almost always crowded, we have been consistently pleased with the quality of the food and service. The portion sizes are huge. I could eat the corn tamale cakes appetizer as a meal.
Posted by: howndawg | January 10, 2008 8:54 AM
how about a top ten things you'd like to see more in restaurants, or more restaurants do... decent bread in the basket; waitstaff who've been trained; coat checks?
Posted by: Fairfax | January 10, 2008 10:15 AM
Your reasons for not reviewing chains reminded me of Judy Rousek's reasons for not reviewing theatrical productions of shows she had seen before. DUH! Isn't it the job of a critic to review what is happening on the scene regardless of whether the restaurant is part of a chain (but new to the City) or the show passed through town on tour but is now being locally produced for the first (or even second) time. Oh, wait - I forgot - the Sun Arts editor seems to think there's more noteworthy theatre life in DC and the general editor must think that Sloane's "society" notes and pix are more a part of the fine arts scene than are reviews of Baltimore productions.
But I digress. How about "Top Ten Suggestions for Where to Celebrate Robert-The-Single-One's Birthday on 2/10"?
Not sure I understand. I do review chains.
Posted by: Rob | January 10, 2008 10:27 AM
A friend of mine who is a chef went for a job interview at the Cheesecake Factory. He said that all their entrees are made elsewhere, sealed in plastic bags, and then the "chef" boils the bag. That's so sad.
Posted by: Owl Meat Jerky | January 10, 2008 10:48 AM
Was just reading Table Talk and was struck by the comment that X group's newest location .... When does a locally owned 'group' become a chain. Or how is a 'group' different than a chain. Oh, I know the classic chain outlets all look alike and have similar menus, but doesn't management style and control count for something?
A Bob Evans will always be a Bob Evans and be everywhere. But, look at Chart House, or McCormick & Schmick's: single or limited locations in a market; not on every corner.
Just a thought.
Interesting point, which needs an entry of its own to discuss.
Posted by: Robert (the Single One) | January 10, 2008 11:19 AM
I love local Baltimore restaurants as much as the next person but I also enjoy Flemmings, Roy’s and Capital Grille. Oh, and Macaroni Grille. I consider a nice mix of chains and locals to be a apart of a well rounded restaurant diet :)
Posted by: Kathleen | January 10, 2008 12:24 PM
What a Top Ten for burgers?
Posted by: matt hudock | January 10, 2008 2:57 PM
Re: Cheesecake factory.
Well that would explain why I got food poisoning at the Harborplace location. Who knows how long that Pasta Caesar Salad was sitting around or where the salmonella came from.
Scary!
Posted by: Tennisgal1206 | January 10, 2008 3:19 PM
Um...Matt, haven't been enough subjective Top Tuesday topics for you lately (think crab cakes and pizza)? You want to do BURGERS!? Yikes!!
Posted by: Dottie | January 10, 2008 4:27 PM
I'm with Matt on a future top 10 burgers. Not pretentious fancy ones with avacado or sprouts or free range gummy worms, just solid good old American burgers.
About 10 years back I did my own extensive sampling all over town (specifically, bacon cheeseburgers) in a quest for the best one, and ended up with Duda's as the unexpected winner, with Kooper's in close second.
Recently, had really good ones at Mick O'Shea's, Kooper's, and the Owl Bar.
Posted by: LJ | January 10, 2008 9:12 PM
Slowly she came into the room, staying close to the wall, hoping that no one would notice her. She wanted only to say that she agreed with Kathleen. She enjoys the food at many of the chains that are distained by others. But, she does not have the strength to survive the wrath of those who think otherwise. And so, she posts and quickly slinks back into the darkness. She is a coward now and always! Gosh, I love this blog...lol.
Posted by: Regina | January 10, 2008 9:24 PM
That thought had occurred to me. But isn't the entire premise of reviewing subjective. I think the issue is not subjectivity, but the illusion of objectivity. Subjects about which people have passionately held opinions simply remove that veil. People seem more willing to defer to an expert about subjects they know less about (newer places, wine, etc.) but less willing in regard to things they feel more comfortable and knowledgeable about. I also think of the Tuesday lists as the beginning of the debate (and an introduction to places I hadn't heard of) rather the final word. I suspect Ms. Large shares my opinion. That said, I would certainly understand her avoiding the topic, discretion being the better part of valor.
Posted by: matt hudock | January 10, 2008 9:39 PM
If I might expand upon my earlier comments, two more examples: is it a chain or is it a group?
First, That's Amore in Colombia is one of several restaurants, the rest being in Montgomery County and Northern Virginia; and Macaroni Grille, a national chain. The food in each is comparable.That's Amore's menu seems uniform in the several in which I've eaten. Is it a chain, or a group?
Second, Baltimore's Prime Rib is one of several locations under the same or similar ownership, I believe. Compare that to Morton's of Chicago. Again, is Prime Rib a chain, or a group?
Posted by: Robert (the Single One) | January 10, 2008 11:41 PM
When you choose to eat at a chain, for the most part, you know what you're going to get. There are no surprises - the menu has been tested and tweaked, the service style has been formulated and the decor preplanned and executed exactly to specs. Should be no surprises. Yes you may get a good meal - maybe even a great meal - but I always tend to feel like I've sold out a bit when I eat at a chain.
But the excitement I get when I have a great meal at a non-chain? It doesn't compare. I just get way more excited about the whole dining out experience if its at a non-chain. But maybe that's just me!
Of course there's the question of restaurant groups - like Robert says are a slightly different animal. I think of Eddie Dopkin's restaurants - while all different in menu they have a similar "feel". (Don't get me wrong, I am a huge fan of all his places!) Not quite chain-y, but definitely his touch. Thoughts?
Posted by: tennisgal1206 | January 11, 2008 7:50 AM
Then there are some of us who married people that were raised in enviornments where their palates were very limited. When I met my husband, he ate 3 vegetables: broccoli, green beans and corn. So imagine his fear at entering restaurants where the norm is to add misc things he has never heard of to what should be "normal dishes" in his mind. Shallots? Water chestmuts? Avacado? Chick peas? (and those are lame examples)
He has come a long way and we don't have to go to all chain restaurants but I know he breathes a sigh of relief when I let him choose the location sometimes.
It has also helped me that more restaurants have their menus online. Now we can check it out before going to determine if there is enough for him to choose from. :)
PS- he now eats more than the three aforementioned vegetables but is still far too limited in my mind.
Posted by: Christine | January 11, 2008 10:06 AM
Chain restaurants are chain restaurants, as people have said, you know what you're going to get. I like certain things at certain chains, and I go there from time to time to get them. (For example, I love Outback ribs, and a filet from Ruth's Chris or Cap Grille, how can you go wrong?).
Side note: Cheesecake factory is the worst, most disgusting, overrated restaurant there is. An example of a chain restaurant gone horribly wrong, where the service generally sucks, the menu is overwhelming, and everything on it is bad. The only good thing anyone ever says about that place is that its portion sizes are large. That does nothing for me if the food is terrible. Their fried Mac and Cheese is good though, and their cheesecake is good but only because one slice probably has 200 grams of fat, literally. (Unfortunately due to colleagues wanting to eat there I am forced to occasionally.)
Of course, local places are going to all be different, the food, the style, the decor. A good local restaurant, in my opinion, and I think most people will agree with me, are atop the dining food chain when it comes to getting an interesting, delicious, "wow" kind of meal.
On a final note, I think the thing only thing food-related I dislike more than Cheesecake Factory is food snobs. Alright, we get it, chain restaurants aren't as creative as local places. WE KNOW. You don't have to be an ***hole and look down upon people because you have a bit more refined taste in food. Sure, its okay to chuckle if someone tells your their favorite restaurant is Applebee's, but people with ( Bob, I'm sorry to edit you here, but I'm afraid publishing a specific user name might start an ugly exchange )'s attitude really get under my skin. Please review quality chain restaurants. Yes, I want to read about them. But you can skip TGI Fridays and Olive Garden.
Posted by: Bob | January 11, 2008 10:17 AM
Let me throw in a monkey wrench: How about an international fast food chain? McDonald's in India have vegetarian offerings, in the Philippines they have noodle dishes, in France they have pomme frites sauce (and probably the best coffee in the franchise), in Israel they have a Passover bun, in Russia they have European country style fried/boiled potatoes, and on and on...I know some don't even consider McD's haute cuisine, but it goes to show not all chains are alike and there are surprises :)
Posted by: Eric | January 11, 2008 10:56 AM
To Robert (the Single One)--
The Prime Rib is independently owned. There are three locations, and only 3 locations:
1.) The original location in Baltimore, opene dback in the 1960's
2.) One in Washington, DC which opened in 1976
3.) One in Philly, which opened about 10 years ago.
The Prime Rib was founded by Buzz and Nick BeLern and they own and operate all three locations to this day. It is by far Baltimore's finest restaurant, and it;s as good if not better than any of the other more notable high-end steakhouses in DC.
There is a place in Chacigo called "Lawry's Prime Rib", which is not affillaired to our Prime Rib in any way, shape, or form. It is owned by the makers of "Lawry's Seasonings". There are a handful of locations around the country, inclusing L.A., Dallas, and Vegas.
Morton's on the other hand are all over the country. As much as they want to be called an "upscale restaurant group", which they are, I also consider them a "chain" because there are so darn many locations all around the U.S. Also, even though Morton's doesn;t franchise, they are a publically traded company on the NY Stock Exchange. Any place that's publcically traded o the NYSE.
"Upscale group" or not, any company that trades on the NYSE has "chain" status in my book.
Posted by: Anonymous | January 11, 2008 11:05 AM
Keep in mind, there's a diferrence between national chains and local/regional chains. You can go to any city in America and find a TGIF or an IHOP. But upu can only find Clyde's in the Greater DC area (Columbia included). Clyde's (including The Old Ebbit in DC and Tomato palace in Columbia) is a very consistent eatery and is operated like an independently owned Tavern with great food and classic American bar fare.
If you do a Top 10 Chain list, the question is do you include both "national" and local chains? Do you limit it to national chains only? or do you do 2 seperate lists--one for national (Outback, Bennigan's, etc) and one for local (Clyde's, Batemans, Green Turtle, etc.)???
Posted by: Slappy | January 11, 2008 11:11 AM
Anonymous: Please don't think I was taking a shot at the Prime Rib. My several meals there have been excellent. (I wish my book and I could afford to eat there all the time.) It just came to mind as a high-end restaurant that was part of a group that competed with similar restaurants (menu wise) which are members of chains. Morton's was my choice (since I have eaten there) but we can all run the list of other 'beef' chains.
Posted by: Robert (the Single One) | January 11, 2008 1:23 PM
Wow, this topic is hotter than a Yuma rattler's belly on Gustave Caillebotte's birthday at noon.
Let's dichotomize! Chains are for people who eat to live. Indie restaurants are for people who live to eat.
I don't like lunch. I feel like I have to eat, but can't really relax because I have limited time and must return to work.
Dinner is unbounded by time and possibilities. I can drink. I can take my time. Maybe something else fun awaits me after dinner. Perchance I might even get my freak on.
Chains are are okay for lunch, but dinner belongs to the indie restaurant or ind-araunt.
But beware the easy dichotomy. Just as we are neither totally sane nor insane, the truth usually lies in between.
Posted by: Owl Meat Jerky | January 11, 2008 3:43 PM
I strongly disagree that "(the) Cheesecake factory is the worst, most disgusting, overrated restaurant there is." That is an outrageous claim. People LOVE the Factory.
Clearly PJ McPooters Irish Whale Gravy House or Cap'n Crackhead's Leftover Shack is the worst. Do your research!
Posted by: Owl Meat Jerky | January 11, 2008 3:54 PM