baltimoresun.com

« Top Ten Burgers | Main | Post-burger-posting musings »

January 15, 2008

Night of the Cookers opens

JoshauHillTabrizis

 Everyone has dreams, so when I got this e-mail just after New Year's from the much-traveled chef Joshau Hill (pictured here on the right with Michael Tabrizi when he was still at Tabrizi's), I simply asked him to let me know when his new restaurant was open. I know how long the turnaround time for new places usually is, so I was thinking 2009 if at all.

Was I wrong.

...When I left Michael Tabrizi's restaurant I went down south to visit my family in Memphis and New Orleans. I had the opportunity to eat a lot of wonderful southern cooking that I realized I had been missing, the kind that took me back to the days of Sunday supper and I thought I would like to take familiar foods and make them seem new again. I met a gentleman named Phil Myers who owns a successful high end casual restaurant "Night at the Cookers" in Brooklyn, New York. Mr. Myers and I discussed that he had invested in some property in Baltimore. We discussed the need in Baltimore for...

...a good southern cuisine that has seasonal influences of the "Low Country," Creole and Cajun foods combined with an array of desserts done in a tapa style with a southern flare. ... We will also offer Southern BBQ cooked low and slow which will bring all the flavors together at Night of the Cookers & Sweetwaters Lounge. The building is the old Southern Blues @ 885 N. Howard Street. ...I want to build an upscale restaurant that has a come-as-you-are atmosphere. I have put together a beautiful wine list in which many bottles are under 40 dollars so you can enjoy wine with dinner. ...

The next thing I know I'm getting an e-mail from Chef Hill saying that Night of the Cookers is open and packing 'em in. I'd love to know more. If anyone has eaten there, please post below.

 

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:12 PM | | Comments (13)
        

Comments

What a terrible name. The only way I can remember it is as Night of the Hookers. I have heard that the food is awesome. The origin of the name is said to be in honor the 1955 Robert Micthum movie Night of the Hunter. My first thought was Night of the Living Dead and Night of the Iguana, neither of which conjures an appetite for food.

I asked Chef Joshau about the name, and he tells me it comes from a jazz album popular in the '60s.

I would swear I read a review of it in CityPaper, but I can't find it now.

Indeed. An employee there told me the Night of the Hunter version. Curse you grapevine!

Here's the album, I'm guessing those cats could really cook:
Night Of The Cookers: Live At Club La Marchal CD (Freddie Hubbard)
Recording information: Club La Marchal, Brooklyn, New York (04/09/1965 - 04/10/1965).

It didn't take Night of the Cookers long to get on board with Baltimore Restaurant Week. They are posted on www.baltimorerestaurantweek.com. They also have their menu posted. The $30 pricetag is probably a good way to give it a test drive.

To Mary...
You did read a review of NotC in the CP but the review was of a carry-out connected to the restaurant (which at that point hadn't opened and not connected with the current chef..) As far as I know the carry-out will re-open sometime in the near future for lunch only.

I highly recommend this restaurant. I am a huge fan of the Brookly location and was ecstatic that this restaurant was opening in Baltimore. I ate there Saturday night at the opening night and actually talked to the chef. The egg rolls with collard greens, corn, and chicken were delicious - a perfect soul food treat. Crab and corn beignets were also very original and tasty. The beignet had the appropriate level of airiness. The chili pomogranate wings were the perfect balance between spicy and hot. The only downside to meal was the macaroni and cheese - - it was a bit blah - - there was hardly any cheese to accompany the macaroni. The drink menu was also a treat - - the mint julep is a must. The ambiance was of the type much needed in Baltimore. Comfy - upscale - but unpretentious. The type of environment that made you want to linger over your food, have a couple of drinks and relax with a good conversation. If they keep booking live music acts, the bar area could become quite the hang-out.

WHAT IS THE ADDRESS FOR THIS RESTURANT HERE IN MARYLAND

885 N. Howard St. The phone number is 410-383-2094.

We ate their last night for restaurant week. I had the egg rolls to start and the catfish entree. Overall it was pretty good. I guess "blackened" means very salty, which I'll have to remember next time. Friends I was with ordered the mussels, which were very good. Service was friendly with a relaxed atmosphere. I'll try it again and would like to order off the regular menu. The chef came out and talked to us, which was nice. He claims his pomogranate wings are the best. "If you're not satisfied, he'll buy the bones back", so I'm eager to try them. If you're looking for big portions, go there.

Hubby and I ate there for the first time after an afternoon show at the Lyric. Both the food and the atmosphere were absolutely fantastic!! We had the ribs and shrimp and grits! We will return......

Well, Its great to see a Man with a dream! Josh has done it again! Congrats to Hill who has been through a lot to see the reality of his dream! I am planning our next dinner at Night of the Cookers!


His martinis are unbeatable...just ask for one of his favorites and leave it to him! You wont be disappointed!!

My sisters and I have visited this restaurant 3 times since it opened. We were feeling adventurous during restaurant week and made reservations.

From the beginning to the end, it has been amazing. We tried traditional fare and eased into some "different" items. Duck confit was a first for all of us. WOW~!!!!!

Finally we fell head first into the desserts... The simplest thing was the most delectable.

PS - Vegetarians - You cannot miss the greens... they taste like they simmered all day on low. Flavorful and rich.. Not mushy.. Ummm.

We will be there again tomorrow evening for a pineapple martini and whatever Chef has for us...

We are trying to kill the menu, so that we can graduate to the "Tasting Menu".. where the Chef surprises us with his creativity.... Wish us luck.. better yet join us.

The food is really good here if you like southern style cooking. I happened to go there on two very slow nights and the wait staff was less than hospitable. Also the menu has changed and chef Memphis is no longer there so they are no longer offering the chilli pomengranate sauce. Apparently, it was on loan while he was there. The manager is exceptionally nice.

I am looking forward to the expanding menu of the new chef.

Saturday night, my wife and decided to try here for Baltimore Restaurant Week, based on the menu posted on the Restaurant Week website. Well...

1. The menu on the web site and the actually menu when we arrived were completely different ! You would think that management would have checked the website and had it corrected (probably the menu form this summers Restaurant Week?). The actual menu looked pretty good however, so we gave it a shot..

2. My wife ordered a class of Merlot and was told they were out of Merlot..on a Saturday night, during Restaurant Week!!

3. After we ordered our 3 courses, I overheard the waitress at the table next to us tell the customers that they had had problems the night before with the "torch for the creme brulee and it was still broken" ! I had ordered the creme brulee and expected to be told the same thing but instead was I was served to me without the "caramelized" top and no mention of why.
4. My wife ordered Shrimp and Grits and the grits were terribly undercooked.
5. We weren't offered coffee when dessert was served.

The restaurant was not very crowded, which is odd for Restaurant Week. The purpose of Restaurant Week is to get new customers to your restaurant. You should be showing off your best, on top of your game. Not a good time to have an off night...based on tonight's experience, I don't think we'll be back.

Post a comment

Please enter the letter "g" in the field below:
About Elizabeth Large
Elizabeth Large, The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic, blogs about memorable meals, dining trends, comings and goings on the restaurant scene and more.
-- ADVERTISEMENT --

Top Ten Tuesdays
Most Recent Comments
Baltimore Sun coverage
Restaurant news and reviews
Recently reviewed
Browse photos and information of restaurants recently reviewed by The Baltimore Sun

Baltimore area restaurant closures and inspections
Search our database of restaurant closures and inspections by the Health Department

Local produce
Search our map for farmers' markets, find recipes and share tips

Takeout reviews
This week's menu:
Stay connected