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December 14, 2007

So come up with a better name already

Gastropub

 

I see that Entrepreneur.com has named "gastropubs" as one of 2008's up-and-coming trends.

These are pubs with fine-dining chefs, the first of which in the U.S. was supposedly the Spotted Pig. It opened three years ago in New York City. I think originally you had to start with an actual pub and keep it the way it was except for the food, but no longer. (See photo of the new Victoria Gastro Pub in Columbia to the right.)

There are several reasons I'm puzzled by the whole gastropub thing (nothing against Victoria, which I'm sure is a lovely restaurant).

First, the name, supposedly coined in London in 1991, sounds too much like a Victorian cure for some unfortunate intestinal ailment. You know, like it's the kind of place that has Pepto-Bismol on tap instead of Coors.

Second...

...haven't a lot of places embraced the combination of cozy, comfortable, casual atmosphere and high-quality cuisine without labeling themselves gastropubs? Is this really such a hot trend? Off the top of my head I'm thinking of the Tir Na Nog chain and An Poitin Stil, both serving more New American cuisine than pub grub.

Which, to wander off-topic here, gets me wondering why Irish pubs tend to do very well in the Baltimore area, while we don't have many, if any, British-style pubs that I can think of (other than Victoria).

(Doug Kapustin/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:45 AM | | Comments (15)
        

Comments

What about the Wharf Rat? They have locations, one in Fells Point and one on Pratt St. just across from the convention center. The Pratt St location has a more complete "British" feel.

Good call. Any others?

I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one that thinks "gastro pub" is a horrible name.

I don't get it. An Poiton Still serving New American? From the times I've been there and from looking at their menu, it seems pretty much like standard Irish pub grub to me. It's not very good pub grub either. Unfortunately it's a popular retirement/moving on party spot for my workplace, so I have more experience with it than I'd like.

I haven't been there since it opened, so I can only speak to what the online menu says, with entrees like venison au poivre and potato-crusted grouper. But maybe that's their fantasy menu. When they opened the food was interesting and pretty good. Maybe they found the New American thing didn't work so well in an Irish pub.

I believe Tysons Tavern tried the Brit Pub, but basically reverted back towards the american standard pub.

You write a "blog" and you're het up over gastropub?

Excellent point.

I think we have the makings of a top ten- Irish pubs with good food!

So what are your nominations?

i think they had a braised/fried pork belly in panko w/ maytag blue polenta on the menu at some point. great vibe/atmosphere and great seasonal food. worth the michelin IMHO.

They're definitely a trend. I actually think of Birches as gastropubesque without the label or the pretention. Since so many restaurants are glomming onto the title, the tagline should be "Your favorite pub grub for gastronomical prices." A little game meat here, a dash of Fleur de Sel there, add a Meyer lemon infused dessert or beverage...and, voila - Gastropubitis!

If you're serious about a top 10 Irish pubs for food, Claddagh Pub deserves a top spot. They've always paid far more attention to their menu--specials in particular--than any Canton bar has to. I'd also nominate Sean Donlan's in Annapolis.

I'm serious about every topic. There are 52 Tuesdays in every year. Sometimes 53.

I know it's off the beaten path, but O'Lordon's in Westminster is an amazing new-ish Irish pub -- gorgeous surroundings and delicious, more "upscale" Irish pub food. Just an all-around cozy place. (O'Malley stopped there -- it was his Carroll County campaign stop during his run for governor. Very brave of him to venture into such diehard GOP territory, Irish pub or not.)

SGI, "Gastropubitis" sounds like a horrid disease not to be mentioned in polite company!

You know, after giving this a little more thought- The Owl Bar has fit this description... and has been around for like 80+yrs... So definitely not new... also, wouldn't brewers art, even though its kinda separated bar/restaurant/dungeon

Irish pubs with good grubs:
The fish n chips and sheppards pie at Mick O'sheas were good when I had them a few wks ago
Ryan's daughter has a creative, if not slighty pricy menu (for pub food)
Claddagh (see above)
Life of Reilly- Had to look this one's name up, but I had an exceptional dining experience last winter (its north of Patterson pk/south of Hopkins Hospital in the E 2000 block of Fairmont ave
Clayton's had a pretty good steak special, but have "temporarily shut their doors" (maybe Sam can shed some light on that)
James Joyce was recently recommended to me by friends who went there for a birthday dinner, but for as many pints as I've raised there, I cant remember eating there.
Slante has a killer traditional Irish breakfast (incl. blood sausage and a pint) that they serve during rugby matches on saturday mornings. That, with the other suggestions above have the makings of a good list, now tuck it away till March :)

Darlene - Ha! Geez, I hope I didn't offend anyone. This is starting to sound like a public health blog. Good point, though, that actually reinforces Elizabeth's post to come up with a better name.

Hmmm...methinks Alka-Seltzer is the antidote for both "gastropubesque" and "gastropubitis."

Looking at the different comments,
I think you all got off the subject.....
I have had dinner at the pub several times, and have not been dissapointed.
You can't judge a book by its cover, and you certainly should not judge a restaraunt by its name.
I should also remind you that the original "Gastro" pubs are in England,
not Ireland, and serve better than normal pub quality food.
This is an upscale restaraunt, with exceptional food and atmosphere.
I would reccomend it to anyone that would like a fine night out.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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