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November 30, 2007

Iconic figures of Baltimore's food scene

MorrisMartick

 

Happy Eater and beer blogger extraordinaire Rob and I were having one of those discussions yesterday that I used to have in college. You know: What's the greatest movie of all time, The Terminator or Last Year at Marienbad

Only this was about iconic figures of the Baltimore food scene. He started with Bill Devine, owner of Faidley Seafood in the Lexington Market, which just about everyone agrees -- I can't believe I'm saying this -- has the best crab cakes in Baltimore.

I countered with Morris Martick (pictured), the octogenarian who owns and still cooks for Martick's, Baltimore's quirkiest good restaurant and, I think, our first French restaurant. But don't hold me to that.

Then we proceeded to try to think of... 

...a few more people who made a huge impact on our city's food, whose personality made them even more important to us, and who are still around.

The only other one we, actually Rob, could come up with was Sascha Wolhandler, owner of Sascha's Catering and Sascha's 527.

If you want to get in on this conversation, please post below.

 

(David Hobby/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:34 AM | | Comments (13)
        

Comments

Maybe Nancy Longo. You don't hear much about her nowadays, but my possibly faulty memory seems to think that she might have been the first Baltimore chef recognized on a more national level.

Excellent suggestion. I think you're right.

How about Lenny and Gail Kaplan, of the Polo Grill?

What about John Shields?

Nancy Longo started us on the path from Tio Pepe to Chameleon and Bicycle.

And Nancy Faidley Devine is the true icon. It was her father's place. And it's her crabcake research and development.

I will throw it out because I know you might get some heat if you did- Cindy Wolf.

You would have to include the Ace of Cakes, Duff, from Charm City Cakes. I never had one of his cakes, but guy is on food network all of the time.

How about Denise Whiting, for not only reviving down home food but helping to revitalize 36th street and celebrate elements of Baltimore's tacky culture

How about Spike and Charlie Gjerde, they've always been ahead of the latest food craze....corner coffee shops; sushi for the mainstream; fusion; organic....

And I think Spike & Charlie's was our first wine bar.

how about Michael Tabrizi, he was the one to bring the open kitchen concept along with Mediterranean Cuisine to baltimore in 1990, and after all that time he spent away, he came back to the scene!! i am a big fan of mediterranean food, so u can not blame me for throwing this in ur way.

John Shields for sure!

I still can't believe that Matrick's actually has a restaurant inside it. It's located off of Mulberry on what looks like a run down building from the outside. Also, it has no windows and has a worn out logo on the wall. I hear he's a great chef/restaurant.

I would also add, Donna of "Donna's"

I still can't believe that Matrick's (sic) actually has a restaurant inside it. It's located off of Mulberry on what looks like a run down building from the outside.

It's actually located right on Mulberry. Martick's is the exact opposite of a suburban chain restaurant. Go there while you still can...Morris isn't getting any younger.

Donna Crivello!

Here's my list (and I'm sure I'm mising many more...)

Stuart and Danny Dickman (The old Danny's" Restaurant on Charles Street).They don;t make 'em like that anymore. What a classy restaurant that was.

Bob and Carole Reilly who purchased Angelina's Italian restaurant on Harford Rd in 1968., added a now-renowned Irish Pub in the basement which was the first establishment in town to serve Guiness, and --oh yeah, perfected the legendary crab cake recepie which made Anglina's a household name for crab cake lovers (even better than Faidley's).

Hirsch Pachino, who owned and operated the old Hirsch's Orchard Inn on Joppa Rd., and Ralphie's Diner in Timonium.

Seymor and Marc Attman of Attman's Deli, the only true authentic NY Jewish deli in Baltimore, and home of THE BEST hot corned beef sandwiches south of the Big Apple.

Buzz and Nick BeLer: Founders of The Prime Rib, simply the finest restaurant in all of Baltimore, bar none.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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