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November 9, 2007

Change of chef at Cinghiale

CinghialeDish.jpg

 

All it seems to take for something exciting to happen at Cinghiale is for me to go on vacation. (Faithful Readers will remember that the Tony Foreman-Cindy Wolf enoteca and osteria opened while I was in Italy.)

My editor forwarded a press release to me this afternoon that never mentions Stefano Frigerio's name, but basically says he's out as Cinghiale's chef and Julian Marucci is in.

I haven't talked to either of the owners yet, but my guess is that the reason is "creative differences."

I doubt that the change will make a huge difference. Hasn't this restaurant always been Foreman's baby? And Marucci has been with Cinghiale since its opening, according to the press release.

Here's part of the e-mail I got from Foreman about the new chef: ...

 

(Amy Davis/Sun Photographer) 

Julian Marucci is better prepared for the position as Chef and is more capable of executing my vision for Cinghiale's kitchen. His preparation has been at Charleston, where better?  His heart is in Italian food - his father and family are from Puglia. I've spent the last two years researching the food and wine of the north, everything about the table. The cuisine will be informed and superb. Our clients already feel the surge in talent, quality, portions and service-orientation from the kitchen. tf

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:18 PM | | Comments (5)
        

Comments

stefano was one of fabio's close lieutenants @ maestro before his departure to the big apple to join w/ steve hanson's restaurant group, partner in fiamma osteria. i suspect stefano's resume made him over qualified for the position of chef @ cinghiale under the close supervision of foreman & wolf. creative difference was predictable...

Had lunch there a couple of days ago with my wife. We were the first one there and had the whole place for ourselves for a good hour. We thought the dining room was definitely well appointed - felt like I was in the old country. I wonder when the switch of the chef happened. I guess I just caught the last time chef Frigerio was there. His name is no longer listed in the "People" section as I was checking the website but is still everywhere else such as on the menu itself.

Frigerio is an incredible Chef, as could be demonstrated by his over-qualified resume. My guess is that his talent in the kitchen, over-qualification and media interest intimidated a very over-confident chef, who was not willing to let her name be overpowered by a newcomer. The restaurant will not be the same, and I look forward to seeing where Frigerio lands. I was looking forward to the elevation in the Baltimore dining scene Frigerio could have given, and am sad to hear the news.

Julian Marucci is hardly better prepared as a Chef. He's better prepared to be a Foreman/Wolf puppet, which seems to be the type of "talent" these two are looking for.

Elizabeth: I don't call myself a foodie as I am to old for that. (I remember running home from school to watch Julie Child on WNET). Exactly when did the chef's name become more important than the food? (Please comment.) As this change shows most chef's are excellent technicians. WIth the exception of the first caveman who used fire, Escoffier and that weird stuff going on in Spain, I am not sure who has had an original idea toward food.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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