Top Ten Places That Put the Charm in Charm City
I started off researching this by going through the archives and checking any stories by myself or LIVE reviewer Karen Nitkin that contained the words "charming" and "restaurant." (Me: 81; Karen: 31.) That didn't help much except to remind me not to overuse the word "charming." Too often one of us was describing a dish or one feature of the decor, not the general ambience.
That's what I'm going for here: Baltimore restaurants I would call charming. I'm limiting myself to the city because these are the places that put the charm in Charm City.
I know how subjective this is, so please feel free to disagree or suggest substitutions.
Here's the list: ...
(Doug Kapustin/Sun Photographer)
* A friend of mine once called Abacrombie "precious," which is a guy's reaction to this charming dining room (actually rooms) in the B & B of the same name. In the past, the food has been so good you didn't mind the addition of a little beet foam on the amuse bouche. Yes, I know it's not open now; but I hear the new owners are targeting November.
* The owners of the Ambassador took an old-fashioned, frumpy Baltimore apartment house dining room and by adding Indian food and black-tied waiters got restaurant critics talking about its cool raj decor. How charming is that? Check out the enclosed terrace decked out for the holidays with red ribbons, fairy lights and fires in the two fireplaces if you want to see real charm.
*Maybe because it's a truly Baltimore restaurant, the Brass Elephant has never been a pretentious restaurant -- in spite of the high-ceilinged Edwardian dining rooms, the wonderful appointments, the crystal and glitter and gilt. I don't know if the place still uses doilies, a practice you can't get away with at Serious Restaurants; but then Serious Restaurants don't usually have this much charm.
*Help me out here. Of all the Little Italy restaurants I've reviewed, the only one I described as charming was Dalesio's, with its deep green walls, an intimate setting and "charming" appointments. The problem is that I was last there in 1999. If things have changed, I'm sure you'll let me know. No matter what, you have to think it's charming that Dalesio's introduced the concept of spa cuisine to Little Italy. Are you kidding me?
*The last time I reviewed Ethel and Ramone's in Mount Washington, I described its "tea room decor." (The only reason I'm not including tea rooms in this is that I plan to do a Top Ten on Places to Go for Christmas Teas in December.) I've also heard people call it quaint and cozy, all charm code words. Karen, who ate there more recently than I did, confirms it's still just as appealing. Plus a tea room sort of place that serves up jambalaya and ribs seems very Baltimore to me.
* If I had to give a vote to Baltimore's Most Charming Ethnic, surely it would go to the Helmand, with its fresh white napery, flickering candles on each table, and Afghan textiles decorating the walls. Sure, the tables are too close together, and you can feel rushed when it's busy; but most admirers would point out that you usually get good food at these prices only in hole-in-the-walls.
* With its eclectic decor, kitschy and arty, Henninger's Tavern's sweet little dining room epitomizes what I have in mind when I say Charm City charm. I know a tavern should be the opposite of charming, but then a tavern shouldn't be serving arugula salads and paella. A few years ago, it was awarded Most Romantic Restaurant by CitySearch, which you don't expect from a tavern either.
* I know, I know. You're outraged that anyone would describe a Highlandtown culinary icon like Matthew's as charming. Sorry, folks. My first reaction when I walked in recently (my first time there after all these years) was "Oh, isn't this place cute." I like the cozy dining room, the sweet murals, the, yes, charming appointments, and the folksy waitresses. The pizza wouldn't have tasted as good if we'd carried out.
* The Prime Rib is supposed to be tres sophisticated, but don't you find it charming that a place with leopard-skin carpeting, black walls and suave piano music also has those cute little fringe lamps, and serves hot, crunchy potato skins for an appetizer and bread pudding for dessert? Of course, if you aren't on expense account, you might not find the bill charming. But that's what rich uncles are for.
* It's not the stylish setting or the artful plates of Korean food that put Suzie's Soba in Hampden on this list. It's the outdoor space out back, part deck and part enclosed garden, decorated with fairy lights, candles, shells and other odds and ends. I know you probably won't be able to eat out there much longer, but remember this charming spot for next spring.
Comments
Putting the charm in Charm City...interesting & it requires some thought. I love Baltimore. This city is down to earth and doesn't care much for nuance. Sure, Baltimore does have sophistication if you look for it (the Charleston group! to name the first that comes to mind) but the true nature of this city can be found in the every day- not just the special nights out.
Given the blue collar history & nature of the city, I think that giving a nod to charm means knocking a place like the larger, more formal Ambassador off the list and replacing it with the smaller, more comforting Akbar. This is the very reason why the Helmand is a good fit, as well as Henninger's. I think Obrycki's should have been on there somewhere, though.
Posted by: kristin | October 9, 2007 7:45 AM
Although the food at the Helmand is terrific, the atmosphere is anything but charming...last time I went there with old friends we couldn't hear ourselves think. The place is so loud its uncomfortable. It ruined the dinner.
Posted by: heather | October 9, 2007 8:16 AM
I think La Cazuela on Eastern Avenue in Fells Point is absolutely charming! Not only is the Ecuadoran food delicious, the ambiance of the restaurant adds to the experience. Think red walls, authentic pictures from around Ecuador, white tablecloths, and attentive service. Last time I went, the place was empty on a Friday night - we need to support this neighborhood gem!
Posted by: Lori | October 9, 2007 8:43 AM
Surprised to hear that the Brass Elephant never comes across as pretenious…
Seinfeld was at the Meyerhoff in either 2002, or 03 and my gf Laura (now wife) and I decided we would start the night off with dinner.
We were certainly young, 23 and 21 respectively - but we were no rookies to finer dining.
From the time they sat us, it was apparent the restaurant had a different interpretation of us.
The restaurant was near empty, basically us and an older couple in the lower dining room.
Our waitress literally threw our utensils down on the table…. And not so subtly insulted us throughout.
She went through no specials with us, while going into detail on the specials with the next table.
She never offered a wine list, while providing her personal recommendations with the next table.
When we made our dinner selections, she made the comment that we should make sure we had the ability to pay.
I was wearing a suit, and Laura was dressed beautifully… have to believe the issue was entirely our age.
I was insulted that the waitress did not believe we were entitled to be there, nor able to pay, so I over compensated and provided a 25-30% tip.
I regret never saying anything to the staff that night, or afterwards….
My 'revenge' was never coming back, and making sure my friends and family knew of my experiences.
Based off the actual dinner I had that night, don't believe it is my loss.
Posted by: Chris | October 9, 2007 9:11 AM
My memory of eating out in the back of Suzie's Soba in Hampden last spring was wonderful food, wonderful company, and absolutely FILTHY chairs. They looked like they hadn't been cleaned in a decade.
Sorry, but I can't call that portion of the restaurant "Charming".
Posted by: Miles | October 9, 2007 9:23 AM
I have always considered Sobo Café to be the quintessential Baltimore restaurant. They had local art, petit gourmet and hipster waitresses before Hampden made all that stuff cool.
Posted by: adam | October 9, 2007 11:01 AM
To my wife and I, b bistro is very charming especially if you sit outside with your loved one next to those grand old mansions in such a lovely quiet street as the sun is about to set :)
Posted by: Eric | October 9, 2007 11:07 AM
I think you missed a great neighborhood bar called Koco's. It has the best crab cake in Baltimore. Is family owned and has other great choices on the menu. Baltimore Magazine recently printed an article stating that when they visited Koco's The Police were eating there and kids also have a section to play. Thats the sign of a great neighborhood bar. Were kids and cops go to eat
I want to do a best neighborhood bars (with food) Top Ten soon -- that's a great idea.
Posted by: Lou Lagna | October 9, 2007 12:58 PM
I give a vote to the Chamelon Cafe. Simple, unpretentious dining room, a bit wimsical, great service and simple yet elegant french inspired comfort food and wine. I wish it was closer to my part of town. It's still open, right?
Posted by: Debra | October 9, 2007 3:46 PM
Hi, Debra. yes it is still open and here's the url - http://www.thechameleoncafe.com/
I had forgotten how much I like this place.
Posted by: Janet | October 9, 2007 3:50 PM
I believe that the Chameleon Cafe is a true Baltimore Charmer, but it does have the most uncomfortable seating.So much so, I have not returned in a couple of years. Probably my lose.
Posted by: mdlrvrmuncher | October 9, 2007 5:14 PM
One of Baltimore's tresures is Tiburzis on Hoffman Street in Canton. The food is the best and at a great price. Say hello to Henry the owner, he is the nicest person and will make your trip an experience.
Posted by: David Jaffa | October 9, 2007 7:32 PM
I've been to every restaurant on this list at least once. Such things being said, I went to Germano's in Little Italy a couple weeks ago, and it was one of the most charming experiences I've ever had anywhere. Our water named Isaac (he gave us his card) was over the top, but in a fun and endearing way. The restaurant looks like it hasn't been updated in years. Also Germano's had a special unbeknownst to us on wine where all bottles were half price, which is nuts for Friday. And the food was excellent old school Italian, which my in laws know, as they're from big Italian families in Philadelphia.
I had never even heard of Germano's before making the reservation on OpenTable, as just like most people, my wife and I have several places in Little Italy that we tend to go to. Throw in Sammy's Trattoria and the apparently now defunct Buono in Mt Washington, and we thought Italian restaurants in the city was covered. . . . But that place Germano's was a charming special find. Please note- No one in my family or anyone we know has any connection to Germano's.
Posted by: Adam | October 9, 2007 9:30 PM
Henninger's and The Prime Rib exude charm and both earned a deserving spot on the top ten. Plus, I'm glad to see Ethel and Ramone's on the list - a worthy and underrated B-more restaurant.
Posted by: SGI | October 9, 2007 10:21 PM
One of Baltimore's tresures is Tiburzis on Hoffman Street in Canton.
Tiburzi's is at the corner of S. Kenwood and Hudson.
Posted by: Hal Laurent | October 10, 2007 8:50 AM
The one thing that puts me off about the Prime Rib is that it has institutional ceiling tiles in the dining room. I can't grant a waiver for this flaw, unfortunately. It is incongruous with their desire to be at the top of the Baltimore food chain. I really wish I could get past it to open my wallet there, but I can't. So sad!
Posted by: Bob W | October 10, 2007 1:52 PM
I want to add myself to the list of those recommending Chameleon Cafe. In my opinion it's the best neighborhood restaurant in Baltimore. The food, charm, and ambience completely transcend for me the "uncomfortable seating" that someone didn't like. Unless one must have steamed crabs, I can't think of a place that better showcases Baltimore's uniqueness.
Posted by: Jake Slagle | October 10, 2007 2:23 PM
Nomination for most un-charming baltimore restaurant: Pazo
Pretention and "new yorkness" do not belong in our gritty but charming and down to earth city. But, I guess it's a magnet to keep posers out of our favorite places.
Interesting observation. I should do a Top Ten UnBaltimore Restaurants.
Posted by: barry | October 10, 2007 2:44 PM