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September 12, 2007

What's happening to bread?

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Faithful readers know how much I love good bread, but after eating at Mama's on the Half Shell in Canton this weekend I'm struck once again that it's disappearing from restaurant tables. ...

...We were served a plate of crackers with port wine cheese and honey butter. Donna's has switched to an assortment that includes more breadsticks and crackers than bread. You now pay extra if you want bread at the Helmand. Several other places I've been to recently bring bread to the table only if you ask.

It seems ironic because never before have Baltimore restaurants had access to so many sources of excellent artisan breads. But I suppose their customers aren't eating it when they put it on the table automatically or restaurants wouldn't have stopped. Is this just more fallout from low carb diets? Or have I just been eating at the wrong restaurants lately?

My friend and colleague Intrepid Reporter Sam (he got a promotion) came up with a very reasonable explanation for this. He thinks the reason may be economic: Artisan breads are so expensive that restaurants aren't as generous with them as they used to be.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:49 AM | | Comments (2)
        

Comments

I also noticed the lack of good bread before a meal (and sometimes it’s not even warmed – that is if you get bread at all). I won’t name the beloved Italian restaurant that set out such cold bread. I had a really good fresh loaf of (warm!) onion bread recently at Morton’s before our dinner came out. Add some real butter (which I try not to do too often), who can’t resist. It wasn’t too overpowering with onion flavor either. It was simple but good. Naturally it complemented the steak.

Funny you should bring this up. A couple of weeks ago I was on a river luncheon cruise on the eastern shore. The lunch was very good; nice crab cake and wonderful fried chicken. Several people asked for bread and were told that there was none on board because they do not serve it. I can only guess that this is either a result of the low carb fad or it is a new way to reduce costs. I just thought it was crazy. No bread at all.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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