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September 23, 2007

City of the Falling Angels

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Walking everywhere got a little more complicated once we got to Venice, although you'd think it would be easier. No cars, no Vespas, no bikes to get in our way. But to get from the train station to our hotel, the Hotel Kette near Piazza San Marco, involved a hundred little bridges with steps up and down over small canals, which I knew but we did anyway. We travel light, with only carry on bags, but still.

And it wasn't just the steps. Rome and Florence were deserted compared to Venice. When I was last here, it was a Venetian city. Now it's been taken over by tourists. Walking on these narrow streets, no matter what time of day, is like being in the post-game crowd trying to get to your car. I've hit the wall as far as other tourists are concerned. Last night I was ready to stay in my room until we leave Tuesday. The city is overrun with foreigners.

Still, ...

.. Venice is Venice; and if you can get away from other people, still enchanting.

We asked for a quiet room when we checked into this very pretty hotel, and the desk clerk just laughed at us.

"There are no cars in Venice," he said with a superior smile. "Every room is quiet."

About five minutes after we arrived in our room, someone started singing "Volare" off key at the top of his lungs, accompanied by an accordion. It sounded like he was in the room with us. Two minutes later, someone else singing with guitar. My husband said he was glad there was someone in the world who played guitar worse than he does.

I leaned out our window and, yes, the canal just under our second-floor window seems to be a main route for gondolas filled with tourists.

I think the three of us are a little travel weary, not from being away from home but just dealing with crowds day after day.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:12 AM | | Comments (1)
        

Comments

With all respect Elizabeth, you too are a foreigner. What do you think they are saying on their blogs?

I'm sure the same thing! It's hard on everyone. I imagine we all thought we were going a bit out of season. And the Italians must be sick of us.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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