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September 19, 2007

Roma Tip of the Day



StPeters.jpg

We got caught in a rainstorm walking back from the Vatican and stopped at Caffeteria Pasquino, a tiny coffee shop on Via del Governo Vecchio, one of the ancient cobbled side streets that are almost alleys compared to the main thoroughfares.

Until this I didn't realize that there were any off-the-beaten path, non-touristy spots left in the heart of the city. For lunch we'd given up and had been buying crusty rolls, cheeses, prosciutto and fruit and eating on our hotel's rooftop garden. It's the Hotel King, by the way, near the Spanish Steps.

My tip is obvious. ...

 

In spite of what you might think, it turns out you don't have to spend three euros for a cappuccino in Rome. The Pasquino, the first place we've been in where there were only Italians, charges one euro. There were several ristorantes and pizzerias along the street, all of which were comparatively reasonably priced; and if we had the time, we would walk back there for meal. But it's on to Florence by train today.

I'm driving my family crazy ducking into lovely little ristorantes and trattorias on the way to important historical sights and monuments. This one, Ristorante Archimede S. Eustachio on the Piazza dei Caprettari, was particularly charming.

We didn't eat there, though. I took a look at the menu; and to give you an idea of what it would cost, the fish course prices ranged from 60 to 80 euros. When last I checked, one euro was worth $1.39. You do the math.

(Photos of St. Peter's, Pasquino and Archimede S. Eustachio by me)

Pasquino.jpg SanEustachio.jpg

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:40 AM | | Comments (1)
        

Comments

If you have time in Rome head across the river in to Trestevre. Almost all the restaurants in this area are non-touristy - be sure to try the fresh orange juice at the restaurant on the corner closest to the church in Piazza Santa Maria (you can't miss all of the oranges out front). I lived in Rome in 2004 and this area is by far the best place in the city for the real italian experience.

If you have a meal or two on the Sun's expense account, head up to Via Veneto near the US Embassy - stop in at Harrys Bar after seeing the most beautiful collection of statues in the world at the Galleria Borghese (if you think the Vatican Collection is impressive, wait until you see the Bernini statues at this museum).

Hope you're having a great time.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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