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September 24, 2007

Happiness is away from San Marco

VWaterTables.jpg

 

There is an antidote for Venice crowd-claustrophobia and a way to get away from all those guys selling faux Fendi bags out of plastic garbage bags every few meters. Go to the other side of the Ponte Accademia and stroll along the canal that's even larger than the Grande Canal. The promenade is sunny and spacious, the water and sky very blue, and many of the other tourists have magically disappeared. There are also trees. ...


Just across the bridge is the Hotel Belle Arti, where I want to stay the next time I come to Venice. Why on earth stay near Piazza San Marco, no matter how nice your hotel is. You still have to walk out the front door sometime.

As my daughter said, she was never planning to come back to Venice until our walk this morning to some of the rest of the city.

VHotelBelleArti.jpg

(Photos of tables on the water and the hotel on the other side of Ponte Accademia by me) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:40 PM | | Comments (4)
        

Comments

When I was planning our trip to Italy my husband let me handle the whole thing, his only must was that we not go to Venice. I thought he was crazy but have heard many stories like your and I am so glad we did not go. There are so many great little cities and towns to check out, I don't feel like I missed out on anything.

I'm so sorry you didn't fall in love with the Venice like I did. I had the pleasure of living in Venice about 10 years ago as a student. Four years ago, my husband proposed to me on the Point. Maybe you'll change your mind if you try my favorite restaurant, Taverno San Trovaso. From the Accademia Bridge (Dorsoduro side), head toward your right and walk along the Calle Corfu. Turn left at the canal. The restaurant is on the Fondamenta Priuli. I'd call for reservations. Try the zuppa di verdura. Yum!! There's also a great little pizza take-away on the calle just before Campo San Barnaba (on the way to Campa Santa Margharita - Dorsoduro). With siesta still in place in Venice, they have strange hours, but stop by for a big slice (they have french fry pizza!!)

While I undertand someone's individual opinion, you would be selling yourself way short if a trip to Italy (at least your first) didn't include Venice. I stayed there one night during my first trip there, and 3 nights the during my second visit to Italy. I agree that it can get somewhat touristy, but the quaintness of the whole experience is a must. No cars, motorcycles, scooters, or bikes. That aspect places it above most other Italian destinations. Of course I recommend seeing the rest of the Country, but my wife and I have decided to return to Venice for an entire week vacation soon.

Emily is spot-on about Trattoria San Trovaso--we liked it so much we ate there twice in less than a week. And if I had to pick, I'd say the Dorsoduro district is my favorite of Venice's sestieri.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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