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September 13, 2007

Excluding chain restaurants

PFChangs

 

Under Tuesday's Top Ten, SGI posted this tactful comment:

I'm so happy you excluded chains in this top 10 and hope you consider doing the same for future lists.

I'm very sympathetic to this point of view, and for many years I refused to review chain restaurants when they opened up in this area. ...

But that changed when I noticed a couple of things.

First, some of the newer, more upscale ones were better restaurants than some local places. Often their wait staff was better trained. They simply had a stronger economic base to work with.

And second, if I never reviewed chains, I'd never be writing about restaurants a majority of my readers ate in and wanted to read about. I can't think of better proof of that than Clyde's being the Most Popular Restaurant in the current Zagat, a survey that reflects the tastes of people interested enough in eating out to take the trouble to vote. If I considered myself a reader advocate, and I did, not to review them didn't make sense.

What's more, things got complicated with local places that turn into chains like Donna's. Or regional chains that move in and are well worth a review like the Lebanese Taverna.

People also need to know if the very expensive chains like Oceanaire Seafood Room and Roy's are worth the money, just as they need to know if the casual ones have something they can't get elsewhere in Baltimore.

It's a debate I continue to have with myself. Obviously I don't need to review every Morton's that comes to town, but I do try to go to the first of an upscale or upscale-casual chain that moves in.

At the same time, I love our uniquely Baltimore restaurants so I want to support them. (As long as they continue to do a good job. I'm always a pain in the neck about it if they slip.)

If I'm reviewing chain restaurants in the paper, it seems to me that some of them should probably make their way onto my blog lists. But I'd like to hear the other side of the argument.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:29 AM | | Comments (5)
        

Comments

Thanks for introducing this topic. I understand about trying to make sure that the preponderance of your columns discuss local restaurants. But, the reality is that most of the people who read your column probably visit chains far more often than non-chain restaurants and also deserve to hear your take on them. I think that you have struck a good balance and should continue in that vein both in the blog and your columns.

Now, with all that being said remember that I am the person who thinks broasted chicken is a great dish so I might not be considered an authority in this area.

Point made. But I think it's important to let us know when a restaurant is locally owned. Brian Boru just opened in Severna Park. This is the third location for the owners of Galway Bay in Annapolis and Killarney House in Davidsonville. Mezzanotte is opening a location in Bowie. But to me, these are still local joints, and given a choice, I'd much rather patronize them.

Yes, I don't really think of those as chains either, although I guess technically they are. Not sure where something like Lebanese Taverna falls.

I think if a place makes good food, chain or not, I want to go there. Foodies shouldn't be food snobs. A good meal is a good meal.

Reviews on local, non-chain restaurants are always more interesting to read. It's like discovering the new "it" eatery or a new trend in cuisine.
Chain restaurants have an unfair advantage in the marketing and ad department since they have enormous allotted budgets. So there should be more focus and attention to local smaller restaurants that need the press (be it good or bad) all that much more.

Wow. I go away for a few days without computer access and come back to a post dedicated to my comment that I was happy about your exclusion of chain restaurants. Yay! I only wish I could have elaborated on my opinion sooner so I could have been part of the process while it remained active.

First and foremost, I LOVE that "tactful" was used to describe my comment since restraint is not a personal strength. It actually made me laugh out loud. If only my friends and family knew!

I've lived in Baltimore for five years and have come to fall in love with Charm City. I'm loyal to a fault and puff up with pride every time Baltimore is mentioned in a positive light in a national publication. Don’t even get me started on the runaway success of Food Network’s Ace of Cakes! Therefore, it infuriates me when a local restaurant is overlooked or cast aside in place of a recommendation for a chain restaurant.

Chain restaurants are inherently consistent. One's experience at Flemings in Baltimore should be the same as Flemings in Boston, Houston or San Diego. That's the whole point, right? So, why include the restaurant in a Baltimore-based list? I just don’t get it.

As far as I’m concerned, Flemings (or insert name of other chain restaurant) has nothing to do with Baltimore so it should simply be excluded from any Baltimore top ten list – unless it’s under consideration for a top ten chain restaurant. Chain restaurants have a place in the dining world, but local ink should give local support. As a burgeoning city, we’re better than the same sized steak served with the same choice of sides and prepared the same old way all across the country.

Why not accept the challenge of finding a locally owned and operated restaurant that offers the same type of fare or price point as the chain? Then, go to it. For example, choose Golden West Café over Z’Tejas. Woo the one you love or a key business client at Charleston instead of Ruth’s Chris. Grab brunch at Miss Shirley’s instead of IHOP. The examples are endless.

I know…I’m idealistic. I certainly acknowledge the challenge of trying to please everyone from the inclusion of restaurants at different price points or locations to ambience. I’d just prefer that a local blog about food and restaurants stick to discussing hometown favorites. And, I’m a food snob. There. I said it!

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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