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August 15, 2007

The trouble with tapas

TapasTeatroWhen I was talking to Ben Greene (over the phone, of course) about his new Mediterranean bistro, Miss Irene's, I asked him if it was going to be a tapas place when it opens sometime this fall.

He was quite scornful, saying that the whole tapas craze has run its course. (Maybe the fact that Pazo has added entrees to its menu is an indication of that.) Only places that change their menus frequently, he believes -- like Tapas Teatro -- are going to survive.

It's probably too soon to sound the death knell just yet, but I wonder if people are getting tired of sharing little plates instead of having regular dinners. I myself like tapas sitting at a bar with a glass of wine, but at the table I prefer a plate where the chef has decided what goes best with what. To me it's part of his or her artistry.

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun Photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:20 PM | | Comments (5)
        

Comments

Tapas are going to survive. I bartend for La Tasca at the Inner Harbor. Very few friends & family of my own knows of these places. They've dined there for the first time and they love it. Now they are inviting more friends to come. It's very unique, your not stuck to a tradition menu where you may or may not eat everything. It fits your budget and it fits your appetite. As awareness grows, Tapas restaurants grow!

Mezze always seems pretty busy to me, and I've always thought of it as adequate, not exceptional. So I think there are still enough people who want small plates...

Tapas may have run its course among the trendy types, but I imagine the style has yet to peak with the masses. Places like La Tasca, which no offense is pretty bad tapas, in places like the inner harbor will introduce suburban families to the concept. In a couple of years you will see tapas in places like Bel Air and Westminster.

We had a wonderful time at a mezze restaurant, ordering lots of small plates to share with friends. If something was particularly good, we'd order more of it - otherwise, onto something else. Pazo and Mezze are just fine (haven't been to Tapas Teatro yet), and I highly recommend Zaytinyas in DC.

I agree with Robert, what I see is that Baltimore lacks of world, it needs to be more cosmopolita... Tapas is meant to be share family style and is a great from of social exchange, that's why the plates are small, so you share a long period of time with friends or family dinning and if you feel that you need more, you just order more... a great place to go... "Amada" in Philadelphia, that is a great restaurant tapas style, and food... just amazing!!! and then tell me if you still like Pazo, which is not bad, but just ok... they need to work on their food, their atmosphere is nice.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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