baltimoresun.com

« Sauerbraten and such | Main | ...and schnitzel »

July 31, 2007

Top Ten restaurants you don't know about

PX00194_9.jpeg

(Christopher T. Assaf/Sun Photographer)

Call them sleepers. This Tuesday's Top Ten started off being Great Restaurants You Probably Don't Know About...Yet. But great restaurants get known about pretty quickly, so I'm going to change it slightly. These are good restaurants that, perhaps because of their locations or some other reason I don't understand, just don't get the buzz they deserve.

The first one I thought of, the Peacock Cafe in the Pier 5 Hotel, was the photo with my post announcing this Top Ten Tuesday. But when I called the hotel, I found out it had quietly closed about five months ago. Its pretty space is where the hotel now serves breakfast.

Sad, but that's the danger of being a sleeper.

Here's my list: ...

 

*The Bistro, 31 S Arlington Ave., Hollins Market area. This tiny spot has four or five tables inside and a couple out. The owner does all the cooking and serving herself, so go with the flow here. Some dishes are African-inspired; but the offerings are eclectic, leaning toward vegetarian (with exceptions like chicken with mango). Fresh herbs are a signature. Sunday there was a jazz brunch with live music -- all you could eat for $25. 

*Green Leaf, 11313 York Road, Shawan Plaza, Hunt Valley. This pretty little Asian fusion place, hidden away in the shopping center, has fresh, for the most part healthful, food and good service. The emphasis is on fresh seafood and steamed fresh vegetables. (Not to worry. There are also tempura and deep-fried wontons available if that sounds too healthful to you.)

*Himalayan House, 1522 E. Fort Ave., Locust Point. The Indian food here gets rave reviews, but the problem is that so far there's only one table, which seats four or five at most. The owner said, "We'll see" when I asked if he's going to add more tables. But you can call in advance, and he'll save the table for you -- and what's more, cook you anything you request. Otherwise it's carryout.

*Tabrizi's, 500 Harborview Drive. OK, it's not opening till later this summer. You could say that's cheating. But it's on this list for two reasons. 1) Judging from Michael Tabrizi's previous restaurant of the same name, the Mediterranean food will be very good, perhaps even wonderful, and 2) Given the location and the history of that location, it will have to be wonderful for anyone to remember it but the people living in the same complex.

*Kolpers, 1520 Clipper Road, Hampden. If you can find it, you can get a satisfying meal of Maryland favorites, tavern fare and a few more upscale entries like mussels fra diavolo or a chicken breast in white wine. Yes, it's a restaurant and lounge, but it's also kid-friendly.

*La Cazuela, 1718 Eastern Ave., Upper Fells Point. If you're looking for the mythic hole-in-the-wall where you can get enormous portions of delicious ethnic food for next-to-nothing prices, this is where to go -- except it's not a hole-in-the-wall but a cheerful little dining room. The food is Ecuadorean, and it's family-owned and -run.

*Mia Carolina, 4844 Butler Road, Glyndon. When Baltimoreans mention restaurants that are worth the trip, they never seem to think of this one. Owner/chef Jay Cohen has good credentials. His previous experience includes stints at Linwood’s, the Harryman House, and Filomena in D.C. The food is traditional and contemporary Italian. Look for renovations and other changes to update the place by the end of the summer.

*Cynthia's, 522-I Governor Ritchie Highway, Severna Park. If you've had enough of clever little bistros for the moment, Cynthia's is a throwback to white tablecloths and glamorous cuisine -- you know, the kind of restaurant where you order your dessert souffle with your entree. True, the decor doesn't have the pizazz of the mostly French food, but it's very comfortable.

*Harvest Table, 1000 Hull St., Locust Point. A sunny little restaurant -- not much more than an upscale coffee house -- where you can get eclectic salads and sandwiches, homemade soups like roasted red pepper gouda bisque, and delicious brunches on Saturday and Sunday. Free wi-fi is a plus.

*True, Admiral Fell Inn, 888 S. Broadway. Usually a restaurant that's imaginative and tries to use local, organic and seasonal ingredients -- and does it pretty well -- gets a little more love than this one. It may be that it's simply too expensive for its neighborhood, but Savannah managed to flourish here (and eventually moved and became Charleston). Maybe it's the name.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:06 AM | | Comments (11)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

Comments

fyi

congrats..

greenleaf is a great restaurant,, phenomenal sushi.. if you found this.. then i willhave to check out your others...shp

El Travador is a great unknown spot located on Broadway a few blocks north of the market. They have the biggest best fajitias and their margaritas are outstanding!! The next time you crazy mexican, this is a great place to try.

Great list. Look forward to checking these out. Don't forget about Shahrazad's in Pigtown. Similar to the Bistro you reviewed in that the owner does it all. But consistently excellent "neo-soul" food, with ample options for non-meat eaters.

Maybe the types of cuisine offered are why most of these places are unknown.

Wow, these are sleepers. I thought I knew Baltimore restaurants. Excited to try a few!

Great list. From an Annapolitan, your recommendation of Cynthia's is right on target. It is sensational!

Try Indian Delight on Frederick Road in Catonsville. Great food at reasonable prices. BYOB. Try the lamb pasanda...incredible.

Funny that I've lived in Owings Mills for 15 years and had never heard of Glyndon's Mia Carolina (or it's predecessor) until your review last week. My wife and I tried the place for lunch today, and were simply blown away! This place is Little Italy quality food, better than Little Italy quality service (the young fellow who took care of us couldn't have been more than 17 or 18, but was a far more polished and accomplished server than you generally find in much tonier establishments), at a price at least 30% less than Little Italy, and it's practically in my back yard to boot! Thanks so much for turning me onto it. Next stop will be Cynthia's in Severna Park, which I had likewise never heard of, and am really eager to try.

Harvest Table is a wonderful place for brunch. Reasonably priced, especially since I don't remember them serving breakfast alcoholic drinks. You can even order at the counter to avoid table service, if you're not yet ready for much interaction with other humans.

We went to La Cazuela in Fells Point Friday night, and I was surprised that we were the only ones in the restaurant! The food was some of the best I have ever had. When you first sit down, you're brought fried plantains with a side of a mayonaise mix, which turned out to be addictive. The Lomo Saltado, which is beef, vegies, rice and french fries, was delicious, and the Chaulafan (mixed rice, peas, carrots, shrimp, beef, chicken and eggs with fried platains) was even better! We were too full for dessert. This restaurant is a hidden gem, and more people need to come support it!

Post a comment

Please enter the letter "m" in the field below:
About Elizabeth Large
Elizabeth Large, The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic, blogs about memorable meals, dining trends, comings and goings on the restaurant scene and more.
-- ADVERTISEMENT --

Top Ten Tuesdays
Most Recent Comments
Baltimore Sun coverage
Restaurant news and reviews
Recently reviewed
Browse photos and information of restaurants recently reviewed by The Baltimore Sun

Baltimore area restaurant closures and inspections
Search our database of restaurant closures and inspections by the Health Department

Local produce
Search our map for farmers' markets, find recipes and share tips

Takeout reviews
This week's menu:
Stay connected