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June 14, 2007

Is Rub authentic?

 rub

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun Photographer)

I'm hoping that someone who knows more about Texas barbecue than I thought I did will be able to discuss this with John. Any thoughts?

Just read your review of Rub on Light Street "Something's smoking at Rub". 
As a dislocated Texan I look forward to trying this place out.  However...
one quick comment.  You wrote:

But the barbecue is authentic enough, with dry rubs, an oak wood smoker and long hours of slow cooking.

For the record... authentic is not OAK smoked.  There is only one true Texas smoke flavor and that is mesquite.  If there are beans in the chili and the wood isn't mesquite smoked... well... it just isn't Texan.

Thanks for the review... have a great week.

John

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:08 PM | | Comments (15)
Categories: Bar-B-Que
        

Comments

Being a Texas transplant to Baltimore I was eager to try Rub, but sadly I will not be returning. The food was nothing like the Texas barbecue I know and love. The most un-Texan aspect of Rub is the portions. When you order barbecue in Texas you can't see the plate, while the 2 meat combo at Rub barely qualifies as an apetizer.

I don't know if it's authentic, but my first trip there I was happy with the food and the portions. I'm actually heading there tonight, so we'll see if I still feel the same.

I find it amusing when purists of various persuasions insist that only one particular kind of wood is acceptable. The wood used for smoking in various regions is always the wood that was plentiful and cheap there...hence mesquite in Texas. Using mesquite in Maryland seems more like a boutique affectation to me, missing the point of the barbecue philosophy (cheap meat cuts cooked slowly over whatever wood is available and cheap).

As I remembered, great food and portions large enough to satisfy this large appetite. I should clarify -- great meat, not great food. The sides and "texas toast" leave something to be desired.

I am also from Texas and didn't find Rub to be anything like BBQ from home. I'm no snob though, and was totally willing to judge it just based on whether it was good. I didn't think it was, and not just because it's not what I'm used to. What I found most disturbing about Rub, was that, after all that cheesy "Texas" decor, there was only ONE Texas beer on the menu when I went. And when I ordered it, the server didn't know what I was talking about and I actually had to POINT to it. Lame.

I think that the brisket is pretty good at Rub, and it's always a good taste of "Q". The prices are a bit steep for what is supposed to be "good cheap eats". Problem is, most people have a preference based upon what they grew up knowing, and then only like that, but every region has a different style- Carolina, Texas, etc...

On another note- I went to the Rib stand at McKeldin plaza again yesterday for lunch and they had the "rib sandwich" this time! Very good. Darryl (the BBQ guy) said that they use his uncle's Alabama-style recipe that dates back to when his uncle used to "Q" for Bear Bryant . One thing though- I'm not sure why it is called a sandwich- It is really 3 large (meaty) ribs doused in a sauce with a side of white bread- not really a true sandwich, but tasty none the less- and a GREAT lunch!

Hal,

What makes it Texas BBQ are the flavors of Texas. I love BBQ from all over the country; KC is my next favorite. But my comment was in regard to "Authentic". And... not to be a snob... but... yes... If some place is claiming to be Texas BBQ... then I expect it to live up to the advertisement. If the sign says BBQ (without a regional tag) then I enjoy it for what it is. It is the same when I see a sign that says authentic German / Mexican / Chinese / whatever...
You are right about cheap and plentiful... mesquite grows like a weed in Texas... the state is blessed that way.

So where are the best ribs in town?

I went to Rub and liked it very much. I grew up in Texas and consider myself a BBQ expert. Mesquite wood is not the wood most BBQ with. Hickory wood is the number one wood. Mesquite gives off a very strong flavor. So, mesquite is used in small qunatities on top of other wood or charcoal. Rub has great ribs and brisket, just like home in Texas. I love the decor.

Excuse me, but I live in central Texas and in my experience mesquite is used for grilling (think steaks, chicken) and oak is used for smoking briskets, porkchops, sausage, etc. Ask any of the "great" BBQ joints in Lockhart or Elgin.

While RUB is no Iron Works, it is still a very good BBQ joint. The brisket is good, as are the ribs and chicken. The sausage is fantastic, as are the corn pudding and the sweet potato fries. Also, my wife is a big fan of the mac and cheese.

So...perfect by no means. But take it for what it is: a pretty strong effort and the closest thing you will find to Texas BBQ in Baltimore.

Wait... I live in DFW now.. and yes, mesquite is aplenty here. But I grew up in the East Texas Pineywoods. Oak and Hickory are what we used there, because you danged sure didn't do it with pine. And you won't find a mesquite tree in deep East Texas.

Rub is like miguels in Silo Point, decent food at slightly high prices.

Just another reason to let Texas leave the republic: they bicker endlessly about bbq. It's quite tiresome.

Thank god Marylanders don't bicker endlessly about crabs and crab cakes or we would have to secede too.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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