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June 30, 2007

Spice Company brunch

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The Spice Company has just opened its outdoor seating area in the courtyard in front of the Inn at the Colonnade. Outdoor seating is supposed to be available every day for lunch and dinner with a full menu; but when it was exceptionally hot and humid this week, I passed by a couple of times and the courtyard wasn't open.

It's supposed to be gorgeous weather tomorrow, and I'm going to assume you'll be able to eat there for Sunday brunch. (It's too early for me to call and check.) Brunch is a fixed price ($19.95), and features carving stations, omelets and other egg dishes, seafood, Belgian waffles, breakfast meats, pastries and "endless" mimosas and bloody marys.


Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:27 AM | | Comments (1)
Categories: Brunch
        

June 29, 2007

Summer hours

tatin

(Karl Merton Ferron/Sun Photographer)

I was going to look into this for Darlene (and by extension everyone else), who wanted to check out Brasserie Tatin's new chef, when I got another e-mail from her. Problem solved.

It reminded me to call a restaurant before I go this time of year, even if I don't think they're going to be busy. ...

Have you experienced any difficulties using Open Table?  I wanted to make a lunch date to celebrate a friend's birthday, and two weeks before the date the response came back that there were no tables available.  I know that if I called the restaurant they would be able to accommodate us.  Do some places limit the number of Open Table reservations, or maybe not use it for lunch seating?  It's a puzzlement!

I thought maybe the dollar a reservation Open Table charges restaurants to handle it might cause them to limit the number they accept through the Web site, but here's what Darlene e-mailed me a while later:

I figured out what was going on.  I wanted a lunch reservation at Brasserie Tatin and it kept redirecting me to other places, saying no tables were available.  I just called and a recorded message says they are closed for lunch for the summer, so it does make sense after all.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:45 PM | | Comments (2)
        

The wild blue yonder

southwest

(AP Photo/The Oakland Tribune, Sean Connelley)

As I'm making up my Top Ten All-American dishes in local restaurants, which will appear next Tuesday, I'm not including much in the way of southern food, because for the next few days I'll be blogging from Sewanee, Tenn., home of the Smokehouse (and a motley assortment of other restaurants).

Your restaurant critic, always at work for you, is going to try to get to the Southwest terminal early enough to check out the new Obrycki's inside security there. I had talked to my editor earlier about having The Sun buy me a cheap one-way ticket so I could get through to review it without revealing my identity, but I was afraid if I didn't then use the ticket I would be on the TSA's terrorist watch list for the rest of my life.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:55 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Wanted: potato salad

I'm working away on my Top Ten All-American dishes from local restaurants, but I haven't been able to come up with a great potato salad.

A little help here, guys. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:15 AM | | Comments (7)
        

The Real Maryland

faidleys

(Algerina Perna/Sun Photographer)

I imagine you get this request all the time, but this is my first, so I hope you don’t mind. . . My son and I will be traveling through MD up the I-95 corridor this weekend and want to get a taste of the real old-time MD seafood and crab culture.  I was hoping you’d make a suggestion for us.  We will be slightly tight on time, but won’t mind going off the beaten path for some new scenery.  We want good food, but not pretentious or expensive. . . the real deal!  On the water would be great, if applicable.  Is there anyplace nearby that is the ONE place to go before one dies?? Thank you for your time and I wish you well!  D Koster

The problem is ...

...that Baltimore doesn't have that one restaurant that exemplifies old-time Maryland seafood and crab culture. I suggested Faidley's Seafood in the Lexington Market, but I think he probably wanted more of a sit-down restaurant .

I also sent him this from a story on seafood restaurants that I wrote, but I think they're probably too off the beaten path for him:

"If I can get you to go farther afield, there are two places I want to recommend. They are cheerful, authentically local places and are pretty much tourist-free zones.

    Mr. Bill's Terrace Inn in Essex is known citywide for its huge, meaty crabs, steamed in a spice mixture known only to the kitchen. Schultz's, also in Essex, is most famous for its boiled shrimp, but it has hard shells and other Maryland seafood favorites as well.

Mr. Bill's Terrace Inn, 200 Eastern Blvd., 410-687-5996

Schultz's, 1732 Old Eastern Ave., 410-687-1020"

I know there are more out there that I haven't been to recently enough to recommend. Please post any suggestions below.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:30 AM | | Comments (1)
        

June 28, 2007

Lebanese for lunch

lebanese

(Monica Lopossay/Sun Photographer)

Thanks to Andy for pointing out that the Lebanese Taverna in Harbor East is now open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on weekdays. (They had been open for lunch only on the weekends.) As he says, another workday option.

I also see from Liquor Board notices that the restaurant is trying to get outdoor seating.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:35 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Next Tuesday's Top Ten

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(AP Photo/Frank's RedHot)

In honor of the Fourth of July, next Tuesday's Top Ten will be all-American dishes from local restaurants.

Of course, we could discuss endlessly what an all-American dish is (and feel free to do so if you feel like it), but I'm asking for a little latitude here.

Suggestions, as usual, are welcome.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:25 AM | | Comments (0)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

Abacrombie Fine Food closes

abacrombie

(Doug Kapustin/Sun Photographer)

Thanks to Kathy, Hal and David for alerting me to this. (You may have missed Kathy's comment under an earlier post, "Another Good One Bites the Dust.")

I actually heard about it yesterday when Good Companion Ed forwarded this e-mail to me:

I just got a call from Abercrombie telling me that they will be closed until September but they promised to call me again then to lay on your  promised anniversary dinner.  I hope you won't get too hungry before then. 

I called Abacrombie, of course, to confirm and...

...was told, basically, that the kitchen staff had left en masse. The new owners are regrouping and planning to reopen Sept. 1.

I think there's probably a good chance Abacrombie the restaurant will reopen in some form or other because it's attached to the bed and breakfast. Whether it will be as good as the old one is an open question.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:10 AM | | Comments (1)
        

More on Fogo

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I didn't have space in the print edition of Table Talk yesterday to say much about the Fogo de Chao chain (pronounced fo-go dèe shoun), which is scheduled to open in August at 600 E. Pratt St.

The chefs, gauchos, are also the servers, and bring around cuts of meat on skewers to carve at your table. The Baltimore Fogo will have 15 of them to start with, all of whom have been trained in the chain's home base in  Brazil.

Andrew Feldmann, who handles Fogo's pr out of the Dallas corporate offices, said he'll let me know what the fixed price (for as much as you can eat) will be as soon as it's decided. He also said that a major reason for the decision to open in Baltimore was that so many people from here were visiting the restaurant in D.C.

Here's what Helen S., who's eaten at the Fogos in D.C. and L.A., wrote me after my Table Talk item appeared: ... 

 


Fogo de Chao is my Brazilian son-in-law’s favorite restaurant. It actually began in Brazil and is owned by Brazilians. It has fabulous cuts of meat, excellent bar service and a salad bar that my husband (who does not like vegetables as a rule) says is “to die for”. The atmosphere is festive and the waiters are well trained and provide true service. The signature cheese rolls are better than any French brioche!

The Malibu Grill in Columbia closed because they lost business – after one visit I never went back – low grade cuts of stringy meat, a salad bar that was not as good as a regular grocery chain’s, slow service and a cafeteria-like atmosphere.  To compare Fogo de Chao to the Malibu Grill is like comparing Ruth’s Chris to Bonanza Steakhouse.

Hopefully, when Fogo de Chao opens, you will visit and give it a “high five” . At least, I am hoping it is as good as the ones I’ve been to in D.C. and L.A. If it lives up to those restaurants, then it will definitely survive.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:15 AM | | Comments (3)
        

June 27, 2007

Soon to be Thai

Just had lunch at the new Minato on North Charles Street. It's well worth a visit, with a fun, funky vibe that somehow works with the formerly elegant townhouse that's its new home.

I'll be telling you more about it later, but I also wanted to mention what's going into the subterranean space that Minato vacated a couple of blocks south at 800 N. Charles St. Apparently the new owners are doing extensive renovations, and plan to open in mid-July as the Mai Thai Cafe, a Thai restaurant.

This is mostly third-hand information that I overheard Minato's owner tell another customer. But I already knew about the Thai part because Good Eater Steve Marcus, who works here but has nothing better to do than scout out restaurants for me, told me earlier this week that there's a sign on the door announcing its opening.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:11 PM | | Comments (1)
        

For what it's worth

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I'm not sure whether this falls in the Useless Gadgets category, the Fabulously Useless category, or Omigod I've Been Waiting for This All My Life. ...

It's the wine whisk, and it aerates the wine in your glass. My first reaction was to wince, but, hey, if it works....

It's also a bottle stopper.

The bad news: The wine whisk costs $20, so I'm not about to try it. And if you take your wine seriously, I won't even tell you about the Wine Sprouts "to add color and whimsy to your opened bottles."

Check them out at www.winewhisk.com if you're interested. And let me know about it if you get one.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:03 PM | | Comments (0)
        

The Roost

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(Photo courtesy of Sam Sessa)

Last year the Roost on Reisterstown Road was given Best Defunct Eatery props in the City Paper's Best of Baltimore section.

Good news, guys. It's going to be back. At least according to this photo the indefatigable Carry Out Sam shot for me. Lake trout (Atlantic whiting) is a Baltimore specialty, and the Roost supposedly had the best.

The new home is at 217 E. Baltimore St.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:39 AM | | Comments (1)
        

Other Top Ten Cheap Eats

five%20guys

(Andre F. Chung/Sun Photographer)

I didn't get to it yesterday, but I did want to give you some other Top Ten Cheap Eats lists as promised. Here's the Zagat's Top Bangs for the Buck, but realize that a new edition is coming out in September, so these will no longer be operational:...

 

 

1) Five Guys

2) Atwater's

3) Big Bad Wolf's House of Barbecue

4) An Loi

5) Baugher's

6) Chicken Rico

7) Attman's Deli

8) Jimmy's

9) Matthew's Pizzeria

10) Au Bon Pain

Here are CitySearch's Best Cheap Eats 2007. (It looks like this is just the list to vote about.)

* Samos

* Henninger's Tavern

* Double T Diner

* Sip & Bite

* Szechuan Restaurant

* Nacho Mama's

* Holy Frijoles

* Sabatino's (don't ask me what this is doing here)

* Lexington Market

* Jimmy's

I was looking for the City Paper's, but its dining guide didn't focus on cheap eats this year.

 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:12 AM | | Comments (1)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

June 26, 2007

Another good one bites the dust

saffron

(Doug Kapustin/Sun Photographer)

Chef Edward Kim posted a message on the Chowhound.com board today that Saffron in Mount Vernon was closed effective immediately.

When I called the restaurant to check, the message said that Kim was no longer the chef there and Saffron would be closed for an "indeterminant time."

It also says to check back for future updates, but I fear the worst.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:44 PM | | Comments (3)
        

Software glitch

Has anyone else been getting this bizarre error message when you try to post a comment?

Comment Submission Error
Your comment submission failed for the following reasons:
Too many comments have been submitted from you in a short period of time. Please try again in a short while.
I was wondering why no one had anything to say about cheap eats, which is clearly an inflammatory subject. ("What? Where's Henninger's?") Now Umberto e-mailed me to say that he got that message when he tried to post to Purple Orchid.
I realize as I'm writing this that you might not be able to post to let me know. But his did go through eventually, so please try again.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:55 PM | | Comments (2)
        

Purple Orchid

orchid 

(Kim Hairston/Sun Photographer)

Bob wrote to ask about the restaurant that was at President and Pratt streets:

what happened to the Purple Orchid? It was one of our favorites. Do you know where its chef went?

I don't know for sure, but I assumed it closed because of the building's location. Not in Little Italy, not part of the Inner Harbor restaurants, very little walk-by business. Parking is perceived to be a problem.
As for chefs, it's hard to track them down even if a restaurant is still open. Owners don't want to send customers elsewhere. In this case, I can't even try to find out.
Anyone else know anything?
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:20 AM | | Comments (2)
        

Top Ten Cheap Eats

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(Kenneth K. Lam/Sun Photographer)

Cheap eats is a difficult category because there are so many good ethnic restaurants to choose from.  Not to mention places that are Top Ten lists in themselves like burger joints. (Too bad crab houses are no longer cheap eats.)

I have to give a shout out here to Karen Nitkin, who writes the Dining for Under $25 column in LIVE. I needed her help because cheap eats isn't my specialty unless I'm spending my own money.

Consider the list below a starting point.  Comments? Complaints? Suggestions? Later today I'll post something about other cheap-eats lists I came across when I was hunting around. ...

 

* Best cheap-eats place to impress a date or your in-laws with your worldliness: The Helmand, the Afghan restaurant in Mount Vernon.

* Most beautiful as well as good cheap food when you're not in a hurry: Eclectic Café and Creperie (723 S. Broadway) in Fells Point. Try the shrimp teriyaki crepe to see that crepes don't have to be French.

* Best vegetarian for small change: One World Café in Homewood. The fried zucchini cake gives a crab cake a run for its money. Sort of.

* Best new cafe food with style: Smedly's in Fells Point, with homemade soups, quiche and gourmet desserts.

* Best classy cheap-eats Asian: Shin Chon Garden (8801 Baltimore National Pike) in Ellicott City. Try the Korean barbecue cooked at the table.

*Best place to get gourmet thin-crust pizza: Iggies in Mount Vernon. (Pictured above.)

*Best pizzeria where gourmet isn't in the equation: Joe Squared on North Avenue.

* Best reason to think outside the burger box when you want inexpensive fare: Dukem, the Ethiopian restaurant on Maryland Avenue.

* Best cheap-eats example that not all Mexican is Tex-Mexican: Mari Luna Mexican Grill in Pikesville. Thanks to Dining Dish for suggesting this one.

*Top cheap Greek: Samos in Greektown. BYOB and your wallet (cash only).

And finally, a bonus selection:

* Best place still nominated in spite of its entree creep upwards: SoBo Cafe (6 E. Cross St.) in Federal Hill. Contemporary American comfort food. Its prices have put it just out of the cheap-eats range.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:58 AM | | Comments (8)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

June 25, 2007

Photos wanted

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It occurred to me when I read Christine's comment on a previous post, "Everybody's a Restaurant Critic," that it would be nice to see the pretty little garden patio at Linwood's she described without actually going there. In fact, why couldn't she take a photo, send it to me as a jpeg and I could use it in my blog?

What does the photo above have to do with food? Nothing. But my point is if I can take pictures good enough for my blog, so can you. Or a better example, if Sam Sessa and Steve Kiehl can (see earlier posts), so can you. They don't even have to be in jpeg form.

I'm particularly interested in outdoor spots beyond the usual suspects, but new restaurants will be much appreciated, too. Or weird signs on the outside of buildings. You get the idea. My e-mail address is elizabeth.large@baltsun.com.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:24 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Sibling nonrivalry

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This grand opening thing is getting out of control. Have you noticed that grand openings are happening months after the actual opening of a restaurant? In this case, it's the Two Sisters Grille at 127 W. 27th St., which has actually been in business for six months.

However, it's a good...

...place to know about if you like Hampden-style cozy neighborhood spots (although it's in the Remington/Charles Village area). The two sisters are owners Debbie Crum and Cathy Carter.

Breakfast is a specialty, served until 3 p.m. every day. Eggs, waffles, blueberry pancakes, scrapple, grits, sausage, and creamed chip beef with fries are on the menu.

Take some cash; no credit cards are accepted.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:55 AM | | Comments (0)
        

Charleston Group's fourth restaurant

tonyf

(David Hobby/Sun Photographer)

After I got a second e-mail asking what I knew about the Charleston Group's new restaurant (which was nothing), I e-mailed Tony Foreman. (The photo is of him three years ago.) Here's what he sent back:

We should be open (God, contractors and artisans willing) sometime toward the end of summer.

TF 

Here's what the people who e-mailed me knew: ...
 

 

From Mike:

Have you heard anything recently about Tony Foreman and Cindy Wolf’s next project?  Last I heard it was going to be directly across from Charleston in Harbor East, and was supposed to be a larger version of Petit Louis.  I also heard it was supposed to open this past winter/spring.  Obviously with the way restaurant construction and planning go, opening on time was never going to happen, but I haven’t heard a word about the restaurant in a long, long time.

From Lea:

I was wondering if you had the scoop on what looks to be Tony Foreman's latest venture--Osteria? I had dinner at Lebanese Taverna last night, and noticed that space next to it has permits up for a restaurant called Osteria; the owner of the space was listed as Tony Foreman. Given that as osteria is traditionally a wine bar, and Tony is known for his wine knowledge, I'm hoping we can look forward to a great (and desperately needed) wine bar!

As soon as I learn anything more, I'll post it here and in my Table Talk column, which appears Wednesday in the food section.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:41 AM | | Comments (0)
        

June 24, 2007

Review Preview

  
 petalo%27s

(Lloyd Fox/Sun Photographer)

Little Italy has a few restaurants that aren’t traditionally Italian restaurants — India Rasoi and Mo’s two seafood places come to mind. Now there’s one more: Petalo’s, which has a menu equally divided among Middle Eastern, popular Italian, and traditional American dishes. 

 You can, for instance, get lamb kebobs with pallow (seasoned rice), veal Marsala, or crab cakes.  It’s an interesting concept, but does it work? I’ll let you know in my review next Sunday in the Modern Life section.

Note the weird but kind of interesting garnish on the dish above. 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:53 AM | | Comments (0)
Categories: Review Preview
        

June 23, 2007

Frosty

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I'm here to report that the early corn I bought at the market today (and which you can buy at the city farmers market under the viaduct tomorrow) is the first decent corn I've had this year.  The variety is Frosty.

I was skeptical: It seems too early to me. But the two ears were well worth the dollar I spent on them -- sweet and fully formed.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:29 PM | | Comments (1)
        

More from the market

 

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Here are the best of the rest of the pictures I took this morning. I was particularly intrigued by One Straw Farm this time because of their gorgeous organic produce. The multi-colored chard, purslane and other greens were spectacular.

They won't be at the Sunday market under the viaduct tomorrow, but you can catch them at the new-this-year Wednesday farmers market in the parking lot of the Mount Washington Whole Foods. It's open from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m.

I have to say much as I love shopping at farmers markets, they can sometimes disappoint. ...

Eating locally isn't always easy. Last weekend I bought some Bing cherries that were overripe. I tried to like them, but I ended  up buying a pound of the wonderful firm, juicy Bings from Whole Foods, which probably came from Australia.

No such problems this week.

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Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:03 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Market report

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I was at the Waverly Farmers Market just before 7 this morning, and all I can say is run don't walk if you're reading this before noon. (Not to worry if it's later. Many of these same vendors will be at the farmers market under the viaduct tomorrow morning.)

It's as if the farmers decided to bring out their good stuff now that it's officially summer. I bought blueberries, Queen Anne cherries, apricots and early peaches from Reid's. And while I couldn't believe it, there was actually local corn. I asked the guy what happened to knee high by the fourth of July and... 

...he told me it's an early variety called Frosty that they plant in April. I'm having it for lunch, so I'll report in.

I also want to tell you about One Straw Farm in more detail. I just don't have time now. 

Meanwhile I took a lot more photos, which I'll post after I get some stuff done this morning. There I was carrying my fruit, corn and loaf of farm bread from Uptown Bakery in bags over one arm, my wallet and keys in one hand and trying to take photos with the other.

It's like I'm vying for the title of World's Worst Photographer. It's not that the photos don't look better than I expected when I input them. They do. But my camera is always an afterthought. Don't worry, that's going to change.

But here's the corn guy:

cornguy.jpg

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:26 AM | | Comments (0)
        

A Sunday jazz brunch

borscht

(Amy Davis/Sun Photographer)

I can't give the details of Ze Mean Bean's Sunday jazz brunch because the menu isn't decided on until today. But I can promise you it will be elaborate, with dishes like blackberry-vodka french toast and crab benedict. ...

 

Hours are 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., and the live music starts at 11 a.m. Brunch is also served today from 9 to 3, but there's no live jazz. Ze Mean Bean is in Fells Point, a little off the main drag.

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(Photo courtesy of Ze Mean Bean)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:52 AM | | Comments (0)
Categories: Brunch
        

June 22, 2007

As promised

Here are the name and number of the Indian restaurant that replaced Pacific Rim. It opened two weeks ago.

It's Asiana at 9726 York Road in Cockeysville (410-666-5303). Good Eater David tells me that the owner of Pacific Rim, who retired and closed his restaurant but still owns the building, was in Asiana helping out when David picked up his carry out.

David, I should add, is a stand-up guy. The first time I took him on a review (to a Chinese restaurant), he ordered beef tendons. I knew then he was going to be a useful companion.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:29 PM | | Comments (1)
        

The other Soup's On

I hadn't heard of it, but here's the e-mail I got.

Have you heard of Soup's On on Belair Road near Perry Hall?  Right next to the Batter's Box if you're familiar with them.  I searched the Sun to see if there was a review of them but couldn't find one.  I did find one for Soup's On at Rose's Cookies, but that's a different place.  Here's their website.  www.soupsonbalto.com  Quite a selection especially when they list everything that's available frozen.  It's small and quite casual, so it may be a place that Karen would review instead of you.  I just wanted to get the word out there about it.

I suppose he could own the place, although it doesn't sound like it. Has anyone else out there tried it?

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:48 AM | | Comments (18)
        

Next Tuesday's Top Ten

sobo

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun Photographer)

Your restaurant critic is hard at work coming up with the Top Ten cheap eats places for you. The criterion is that you can get a great meal for under $25.

It's a difficult category because with gas prices as high as they are, the cheap eats restaurant in my neighborhood may not be a cheap eats place for you.

Also, I'm going to eliminate all those places that have some bargain dishes but also some not.

Suggestions welcome.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:18 AM | | Comments (3)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

New Indian in Locust Point

hima

(Photo courtesy of Himalayan House)

Well, new to me anyway. And probably to most of you. Not many places slip under my radar for nine months, but the Himalayan House in Locust Point has. Thanks to Rachel Singer for bringing it to my attention.

It's mostly a carry out, but the manager says they're planning to add some more tables soon. (Right now, Rachel suggests, you can take your picnic to nearby Fort McHenry.) The owner, Prem Raja Mahat, is a folk music star in Nepal, and Nepalese dishes are a specialty of the place. He was a general manager at the Mughal Garden on North Charles Street.

And this just in, I hear Pacific Rim in Cockeysville has  become an Indian restaurant. More details later today, when the friend who told me about it last night faxes me the menu. He couldn't remember the name, even though he'd had take out from there the night before. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:09 AM | | Comments (3)
        

June 21, 2007

Everybody's a restaurant critic

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My deskmate Steve Kiehl told me he was going to walk up to the Garden for lunch. This is the outdoor lunch spot at 4 E. Madison. I asked him to take a photo and let me know how it was, and I would post it on my blog.  

Naturally when he got back, he wanted to write it up himself, even though he has a perfectly good job as The Sun's pop culture reporter.

Everybody wants to be a restaurant critic.

He wouldn't let me use his photos unless I posted his review, so here goes:...

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By Steve Kiehl

I had been waiting for the perfect day to try Lunch in the Garden, the outdoor restaurant at 4 East Madison Inn in Mount Vernon. It’s only open Wednesday through Friday, and it’s been too hot lately to eat outside.

But today, at last, seemed just right. I took a seat on the shaded patio, surrounded by trees, plants and a fountain with large goldfish. They, fortunately, were not on the menu, which was a mix of sandwiches and salads in the $6 to $8 range. The salads came with a choice of crab cake, chicken or tuna, while the sandwiches included roast beef, roast chicken with apple and brie, and smoked turkey with chutney cheese.

In the mood for something light and refreshing, I went with the tomato and mozzarella with basil sandwich ($6), on a French roll. The roll was a little soft, and slightly soggy, for my taste. But the tomato and mozzarella were fresh, and it came with “Sandy’s Vegan Potato Salad” — sliced red potatoes with onions, all covered in a fantastic vinegar sauce.

For dessert, I opted for a brownie ($1). But the alternative, a watermelon slice, was also tempting. The brownie was homemade, soft and delicious.

What couldn’t be beat, though, was the setting. The tables are set far enough back from the street to reduce city noise. The brick patio is tucked between two tall brick buildings and overrun with greenery. It was as pleasant as could be.

When the check came (a reasonable $8), it included a note from the server: “Enjoy the 1st day of summer!”

Indeed, I already had.
  

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:54 PM | | Comments (2)
        

Just a thought

It occurred to me last night as I was eating Tapas Teatro's cardamom vanilla ice cream with mangoes, figs and dates -- a dessert the Helmand is also famous for -- that we could all duplicate this at home by chopping up some mangoes, dried figs, and dates; putting some good quality vanilla ice cream on top; and sprinkling the ice cream heavily with cardamom.

The sangria, of course, cannot be duplicated.

mangoes

(Bob Fila/Chicago Tribune/MCT)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:23 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Resting on its laurels

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Carry Out Sam, always alert for news to share with me, brought me the photo above. He was puzzled because he had never heard of the Treehouse in Cockeysville and didn't remember reading a review of it in the Sun.

That's because he wasn't born when the review ran. ...

Just kidding, Sam. But I went back in the Sun's archives and found that no one had reviewed it since I had in 1992. (This was when I was reviewing for both the Sunday paper and the LIVE section.) And yes, it did get three stars from me then.

That was also when you could get ribs and two vegetables at the Treehouse for $6.95.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:34 AM | | Comments (1)
        

A birthday at Tapas Teatro

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We were planning to grab a quick bite last night and then go to the movies next door at the Charles. But somehow the birthday dinner at Tapas Teatro stretched out, what with the sangria, the meatballs made of ground lamb with almonds and cilantro, the ginger-jalapeno rice cakes, and...

the eggplant with yogurt and mint. (See below.) Not to mention the salmon; the artichokes, olives and asparagus in vinaigrette and two or three other good things.

Sometimes I want a real meal with a main course, but sometimes nibbling from small plates that you order as you go suits me just fine. 

eggplant.jpg

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:54 AM | | Comments (0)
        

June 20, 2007

Light crabs

crabs

(Todd Holden/Special to the Sun)

I got this e-mail from Barbara, who sounds like an old-time Marylander who knows her crabs. She raises an interesting point about telling the restaurant you don't want to pay for light crabs (not sure I could tell in advance).

I'm not going to include the name of the crab house because she says she went a year ago. ...

My husband and I ate there last year and were very disappointed.  We each had a bowl of their so-called crab soup.  It looked like tomato soup with vegetables and a few pieces of crab meat on top.  There was no crabmeat throughtout the soup.

We then had a dozen of $60 crabs.  They were okay but I showed them a crab that was paper thin and lacked crabmeat.  We were paying $5 a crab therefore I asked not be charged for that one.  Which they obliged.  My question was, couldn't they feel that that crab was light.  I believe they will give you these crabs and figure that no one will complain.

Being a Marylander and growing up with crabs, I have seen the prices go up and up without regard for the quality of the crabs.

I make my own crab soup and I have used the back shells of about six crabs to make my soup base.  I boil the shells in water and then strain the broth.  I then clean all the claw meat and save for my crab soup.  I then use the broth for making my crab soup.  It has all the seasoning that I need.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:34 PM | | Comments (2)
        

Dinner last night

I had a great last-minute supper last night. ...

I got fresh sweet peas from the farmers market last Saturday. They were so wonderful I wanted them to be the centerpiece of my meal.

I sauteed sliced red pepper in a smidgen of sweet butter, added halved grape tomatoes and asparagus cut on the diagonal and finally heavy cream. When the cream was hot I added the peas, seasoned the vegetables with salt and freshly ground pepper and served them over spaghetti. (For some reason I craved spaghetti, not fettucine.)

Note to self: Next time substitute something for the grape tomatoes. They were too acid-y for the dish.

This is why I'm never going to be a good food photographer, though. It never occurred to me to take a picture of the meal, even though I was in my own kitchen.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:05 PM | | Comments (1)
        

Quick tip

Coburn's Tavern in Canton is closed for renovations until Friday, Carry Out Sam tells me. The sign on the door says something about the walls and floors being redone and that the place should reopen Friday. (My italics.) The tavern's Web site doesn't mention it, and no one answers the phone.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:52 AM | | Comments (0)
        

Not me, RD

joes

(Joe's Peking Duck House/Sun files/1999)

I was puzzled by RD's tactful comment yesterday under the Peking Duck post -- especially because I didn't remember ever having been to Chinese Delight. (It's a carryout at 4032 Falls Road.) He wrote,

I believe Ms. Large herself reviewed the peking duck at chinese delight very favorably..

(Well, he didn't say, "You idiot. You don't remember eating Peking duck at Chinese Delight?") ...

I looked back in the Sun's archives, and it turns out I did a Table Talk item seven years ago on the fact that the owner of Joe's Peking Duck House, which I had reviewed and which had closed, was now making Peking duck at Chinese Delight.

I never actually reviewed Chinese Delight because it wasn't a full-service restaurant. But now that RD reminded me, I do remember how wonderful the duck was at Joe's.

I may have to stop at Chinese Delight for dinner tonight.

Thanks, RD.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:54 AM | | Comments (1)
        

June 19, 2007

Where is he now?

Still trying to track down Mark Hofmann, the former local celebrity chef who owned Henry's Bistro in Phoenix. I wanted to mention what he was doing in next week's Table Talk column. ...

...The only clue I had was Henry's current owner telling me he was "around."

There are two Mark Hofmanns listed in Maryland at anywho.com. The first one I called said, "I don't want to subscribe" and almost hung up on me. I squeaked, "Wait! Wait!" and he listened long enough to say that he wasn't the Hofmann I was looking for and that he got these calls all the time. Which is weird in itself. The other Mark Hofmann lives in Potomac and hasn't returned my call.

 And you thought all I did was eat wonderful meals and write about them.  

Where is Mark Hofmann?

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:21 PM | | Comments (2)
        

More views of oZ.

PX00025_9.jpeg

(Kim Hairston/Sun Photographer)

I got these two e-mails in response to my review of the oZ. Chophouse in Fulton, which appeared in Sunday's paper. (Don't you love the photo above of the restaurant's sliders? It's an appetizer, folks.) ...

i read your review of oz.  it is less than 5 min. from our house, and we go there often.  have not ventured into the dining room; always eat bar food, usually the kobe sliders and sweet potato fries!   if you go there again, try the crab cakes; they are yummy ... and so is the mac and cheese!  and tues is crab cake sandwich special for $10!
Carol Ann Cohen
--
and
--
I enjoyed and totally agree with your assessment of oz Chophouse. If I'm going to pay "downtown" prices for food and drink, I expect professional service, consistently good food and not seeing someone's arm pits because they're wearing a sleeveless tee shirt. I'm sure this marks us as incredible "old fashioned", but I was glad to see you feel likewise.
DTiburzi

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:30 PM | | Comments (1)
        

Peking duck

Does anyone have a suggestion for Beverley? I can't think of a place in this area, because I usually don't get a dish to share when I review.

Do you have a suggestion as to where to go to enjoy a really good Peking duck?  One with wonderful crispy skin and moist interior?  Any help would be great.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:24 AM | | Comments (5)
        

Top Ten Tuesday: Little Italy

petalos

(Lloyd Fox/Sun Photographer)

One thing I've learned about Little Italy over the years. Whether it has authentic Italian food or even whether it has the best Italian food in Baltimore is simply beside the point. Locals and tourists alike love Little Italy the way they love Disneyland: Because it evokes an earlier, more wonderful time.

Maybe it's your actual past. (Your parents took you to Sabatino's for special occasions.) Or maybe it's just how you imagine the past to be: The feeling that you're safe strolling the streets, the fact that you get service that's warm and caring, and the fact that you can count on big portions of comforting food.

I wouldn't presume to rank Little Italy's restaurants. Most Baltimoreans have ones they love for very different reasons. (The chopped salad at Chiapparelli's, for instance.) But here are ten suggestions: ...

* Best restaurant with its own bakery: Della Notte. Good, crusty Italian bread is a given, and desserts are a cut above the usual tiramisu and cannoli from the local sweet shop.

* Place to go when you're feeling like luxurious excess: Aldo's. Try the signature dish, tournedos Rossini, with pink-centered filets, foie gras, a wild mushroom sauce and black truffles. Very expensive.

* Restaurant with a wonderful pasta Bolognese: Ciao Bella. The classic meat sauce is ramped up with cream and a slug of vodka.

* Place to go when you're in the mood for a bargain: Amicci's. This is about the closest you'll come to cheap eats in Little Italy. The menu is small, but at the moment entrees are still under $20.

* Best place in Little Italy to eat outdoors on a warm summer evening: Petalo's. You aren't sitting right on the street, but on a handsome, multi-level covered balcony.

* Easiest restaurant to get to: Da Mimmo. A complimentary limo will pick you up if you live downtown, and it has free private parking. Known for its good food and international wine list. Also very expensive.

* Place that understands the value of emphasizing a particular region's cuisine: Germano's. The region is Tuscany, not a bad one to specialize in. Think bruschetta, spiedino toscano (mixed grill) and tiramisu.

*Restaurant with career waitresses and service that's flawless in a down-home, comfy, motherly sort of way: Chiapparelli's. (And that's what you want in Little Italy, isn't it?)

* Best "forgotten" restaurant: La Tavola. People always mention Sabatino's and Velleggia's, but don't overlook this pleasant place with good food. Half-Priced Wine Wednesdays just started last week.

*Most reliable: Boccaccio. That may sound like faint praise, but over the years this is where I've had the most consistently good Northern Italian food and professional service. It's expensive, though.

If I haven't mentioned your favorite, it's because I haven't been to it recently enough to have a reliable opinion. Feel free to let me know why it's worthy of note.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:52 AM | | Comments (8)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

June 18, 2007

Where's the shrimp?

shrimp%20salad

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun Photographer)

Yesterday a couple of tennis friends wanted to know where to get the best shrimp salad. They had just had very good, maybe even the best, shrimp salad at Taneytown Deli & Sandwich Shop (10 Mellor Ave.) in Catonsville.

If it wasn't the best, it was certainly the most expensive. It cost them $18. ...

...They hadn't put money in the parking meter; and when they came out, their car had been ticketed.

The only place I know of that's known for its shrimp salad -- and always has been -- is Kibby's at 3450 Wilkens Ave. (See photo above.) But there must be others.

We all agreed that great shrimp salad has big chunks of shrimp (not undercooked), good mayonnaise, celery and seasonings that don't overpower the main attraction. I haven't tried Taneytown Deli's version, but I pass my friends' recommendation along.

And don't forget to feed the meter.

 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:23 PM | | Comments (17)
        

8 weeks later

buddha.jpg

Today is the two-month anniversary of my blog, and here's what I've learned so far.

1) Blogging is more fun than working.

2) I get the most comments about barbecue, pet peeves and bread pudding, in that order.

3) While print readers blame me personally if the meal they have at a restaurant isn't as good as the one I had, for whatever reason blog readers don't.

4) It's not true that people don't read newspaper blogs on the weekend. 

5) I'm not a food photographer. The best I can do is the exterior of a restaurant. (See above, Buddha's Belly in LA. It looked a lot better on my Mac at home, I promise.) But I'm working on it. 

 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:06 AM | | Comments (2)
        

Sandwich generation dining

Henrys%20Bistro%20Buffalo%20Bites.jpg

(Photo courtesy of Henry's Bistro)

No, not sandwich as in food, but the people who are sandwiched in between taking care of their parents and their kids. This is the second request I've gotten in the past few days for a restaurant that would be good for multi-generational dining. ...

 

Looking for a nice, casual dining spot for birthday dinner, midweek.
Has to be good food to satisfy older folks,
younger hip tastes, with good wine options and something for kids too!
and maybe outside seating?
any ideas?
thanks
k


Henry's Bistro would, I think, be good if you're north of the city. The menu has been expanded since I was there quite a while ago, but the two chefs, John Hufnagel and Kyle Thomas, stayed on after it was sold last March.

Co-owner Judy Lapinski told me when I called that the previous owner, Mark Hofmann, who was something of a local celebrity chef, is "around." If anyone knows any more, please let me know.

As for downtown, I'm  thinking the Wine Market would fit the bill if you ate on the patio. I'm not sure about the kids, though. The hip combined with kids is the part that has me stumped.

Maybe someone else has a suggestion.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:28 AM | | Comments (4)
        

June 17, 2007

But wait, there's more...

Just today some excellent Top Ten topics were posted:

* Most overrated

* Places good for breaking up (this may be my favorite yet; obviously a steak house would be dangerous)

* Best ribs

* Restaurants you'd like to exist that don't

* Top ten signs that you have a bad waiter

* Top ten signs that your meal will not be good

* Top ten signs that you are a bad customer

* Top ten nightly or weekly specials
 

Thanks to Vinnie, Jessica and Umberto.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:05 PM | | Comments (3)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

Top Ten Top Ten

This is great. I'm getting so many good Top Ten suggestions I could almost make a Top Ten Tuesday list of Top Ten Tuesday subjects.

Don't stop now.

The topics suggested so far: ... 

1) Cheap eats

2) Girls' night out, and its corollary, guys' night out

3) Eats at the beach

4)  Authentic ethnic

5) Popular local homegrown (that are still around)

6) See and be seen

7) Unknown chefs (a few local celebrity chefs get all the press)

8) Places to take visiting parents/in-laws

9) Places never to take visiting parents/in-laws 

10) Italian restaurants outside Little Italy 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:36 PM | | Comments (2)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

Review Preview

rumor

(Christopher T. Assaf/Sun Photographer)

When you visit the historic part of Ellicott City, you probably don’t expect anything like the new Rumor Mill Fusion Bar and Restaurant.  Fancy cocktails seem to be as much of a draw as the food, as you can probably guess from the name.  
 One of my friends fell on his sword and ordered a chai Buddha — not your usual aperitif. The waitress swore it wasn’t as sweet as the Blushing Geisha or some of the other drink specialties, but you could have fooled me. It was made with vanilla vodka, coffee cream liqueur, and cream and tasted like a watery but alcoholic milkshake. Have it for dessert instead.
 For more about the food and drink at the Rumor Mill, read my review in next Sunday’s Modern Life section.
 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:02 AM | | Comments (0)
Categories: Review Preview
        

June 16, 2007

The anniversary dinner

Where does a restaurant critic go for her wedding anniversary? Anywhere she doesn't have to eat off somebody else's plate. Or how about, anywhere the waitress has been trained to pronounce the "s" sound on the end of vichyssoise.

That would be...

...Petit Louis, where my husband and I were packed in like sardines and the noise isn't exactly at romantic-evening levels.  Still, after all these years we don't need to talk to each other anyway. A twitch of an eyelid can mean, This vichyssoise is wonderful. Almost as good as yours, dear.

More than ever, I realized last night, Petit Louis has become the neighborhood eatery for the well-heeled Roland Park crowd. (That would not be us, in case you're wondering.) Everybody knows everybody, so the noise and crowding isn't a problem for them. The reason I say well-heeled is, like everywhere else, Petit Louis has gotten more expensive. It's hard to get out of there for much under $50 if you're having a real dinner. Don't let the bistro tag fool you.

What does a restaurant critic have for her anniversary dinner? I started with a glass of sauvignon blanc, then the mache and haricots verts salad, which faithful readers know I love, followed it with duck breast and fresh cherries, and ended with creme caramel. And the best cup of decaf coffee I've had this year.

 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:47 PM | | Comments (3)
        

Update on Regi's

regis2

(Photo courtesy of Regi's)

I called Regi's owner Alan Morstein to see how the Federal Hill bistro was doing after the accident a few weeks ago. My favorite of the stories he told me about how supportive the neighborhood has been was that two people involved in the crash came in afterward to pay their bills, explaining, "I couldn't pay because I was being transported to shock trauma."

The glass-half-full part of the whole mess is...

...that the outdoor seating area should be better than ever. New tables and chairs are coming in a couple of weeks. With the awning, ceiling fans and heaters, customers can eat outdoors almost year round.

Anyway, several people have mentioned Regi's when I've posted about Sunday brunch places on Saturday. (The complimentary homemade blueberry and corn muffins always get a mention.) The brunch menu on the Web site makes it look well worth checking out, especially as Morstein says that's just a random sampling. The actual brunch menu is three pages long.

Brunch at Regi's is served from 9:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:02 PM | | Comments (0)
Categories: Brunch
        

June 15, 2007

Sad news

dean

(John Makely/Sun Photographer)

In case you missed the obituary of restaurateur Timothy Dean's wife in the paper yesterday, here's the link. She was a co-owner of Timothy Dean Bistro in Fells Point.

I called to check, and the restaurant is open this weekend.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:28 PM | | Comments (1)
        

Three... is open

Three... (those ellipses are beginning to bug me) opened quietly this Wednesday at 2901 E. Baltimore St. near Patterson Park. It's the restaurant that replaced the Parkside. The food is contemporary American; and when they get the new restaurant kinks out, the three owners are planning a grand opening.

The phone number wasn't available yet from information when I checked. Luckily I still had the cell number of one of the owners, and he gave me the restaurant number for reservations: 410-327-3333.

There you go. I finally have some hot new bistro news for you. (See previous post, "Some Like It Hot.")

If you try out three... before I get there, please post your thoughts below.

 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:29 PM | | Comments (1)
        

Theories of eating

robin

(Gene Sweeney Jr./Sun Photographer)

Those of you who have been following my Make Over My Meal series, which appears monthly in the Taste section on Wednesdays, will have noticed my fascination with the First Bite Theory of Eating, and its corrollary, the Last Bite Theory of Eating, which our nutritonal goddess, Robin Spence, proposed in the installment that appeared this week.

That's because I never thought about eating having theories before. If I had to articulate mine, it would be...

...something like if it tastes good, eat it, which is why I'm going to die young.

Robin, if you're reading this (and I've asked you to bookmark my blog, so you should be), are there other theories of eating? If so, please post below.

Naturally anybody else who has a theory of eating is welcome to post, too.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:47 AM | | Comments (2)
        

Hidden cameras in restaurants

Thanks to Kathryn for reminding me about the disturbing idea of cameras in restaurants. Not the flash kind I complain about, but ones put up by the restaurants themselves. (See my previous post "10 Things Your Restaurant Doesn't Tell You.")

I have to admit I haven't noticed any in eating places around here, but then I haven't been looking for them. Are any Baltimore restaurant owners willing to admit they have them, or have any of you faithful readers noticed them? 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:31 AM | | Comments (2)
        

Jambalaya tonight

whiskey

(Andre F. Chung/Sun Photographer)

My next-door neighbor brought me a business card from the Mill Valley Garden Center & Farmer's Market, which I had never heard of. It turns out the place serves lunch Thursday, Friday and Saturday (this week oxtail and fava bean soup with foccaccia prepared by Soup's On for $3.50).

There's an elaborate Father's Day Breakfast on Sunday from the Whiskey Island Pirate Shop. That's the Whiskey Island Pirate guy in the picture above.

Friday nights are community feast nights, fixed by the Curry Shack.  Tonight is jambalaya. (You can read more about the menu on the market's Web site.)

I can't go tonight because it's my wedding anniversary, and my husband is taking me out to dinner. Of course I can't tell you where before I go, but I'll report on our meal tomorrow.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:16 AM | | Comments (2)
        

June 14, 2007

Some like it hot

Kathylizhart is really annoyed with me. I got this e-mail from her today:

I wanted to see your blog about hot new bistros, but could not access it.  Admittedly, I'm not very knowledgeable about computers, but I generally manage with other sites.  Further, I don't work so I can't fool around with the company's high speed computers, so it's not worth it for me to spend so much tme looking for something that, since I pay good money to The Sun for a subscription, that I should be able to read, preferably in the paper.  For a subscriber of long standing, this is all wrong. 
 
I e-mailed her back, ....

giving her the link to click on. It may be that she didn't put in the www (the Sun style is not to print it) or perhaps she used the @ sign in the URL. I also told her that actually I hadn't written about any hot new bistros. Here's what she wrote back:

Thanks -- I did get your blog this time.  In Wednesday's paper your column referred to hot new bistros in your blog and I assumed you had written about them.  Guess I also don't know how to read blog-speak.

I had to explain that it was more a case of editor-writing-the-promotion-before-the-blog-started speak. But I want you to know that if any hot new bistros do appear on the scene, you'll read about them here. And I promise, Kathy, you'll also read about them in my print column.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:34 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Is Rub authentic?

 rub

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun Photographer)

I'm hoping that someone who knows more about Texas barbecue than I thought I did will be able to discuss this with John. Any thoughts?

Just read your review of Rub on Light Street "Something's smoking at Rub". 
As a dislocated Texan I look forward to trying this place out.  However...
one quick comment.  You wrote:

But the barbecue is authentic enough, with dry rubs, an oak wood smoker and long hours of slow cooking.

For the record... authentic is not OAK smoked.  There is only one true Texas smoke flavor and that is mesquite.  If there are beans in the chili and the wood isn't mesquite smoked... well... it just isn't Texan.

Thanks for the review... have a great week.

John

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:08 PM | | Comments (15)
Categories: Bar-B-Que
        

Wanted: Top Ten Topics

Thanks to Eric for another excellent Top Ten Tuesday suggestion. (See under Two Great Weeks of Top Tens.) Keep those cards and letters coming, folks.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:47 PM | | Comments (10)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

Need a treat?

cherries

(AP Photo/Reed Saxon)

Cacoa Lorenzo Chocolatier has fresh chocolate cherries Friday afternoons and Saturdays during cherry season (until about mid-July). The cherries are dipped in dark French chocolate and then dipped again in milk chocolate.

Just a thought.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:40 AM | | Comments (1)
        

Two great weeks of Top Tens

littleitaly

(Kenneth K. Lam/Sun Photographer)

The people have spoken. Well, a few of them. Next Tuesday I'll do Top Ten Little Italy restaurants, and the following Tuesday, Top Ten Cheap Eats.

I'm thinking about having 10 Little Italy categories, like Good Place to Take the Kids -- but I don't promise to do it. (That's the great thing about blogs.) It will depend on coming up with 10 categories, and that's where you could help. Please post below.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:20 AM | | Comments (3)
        

June 13, 2007

Burger free

vegetarian

(Sun Photographer)

I got this e-mail from Helen:

A group of co-workers at union memorial hospital want to give a doctor a gift certificate to a vegetarian restaurant. he lives in phoenix, so a place in the I-83 corridor would be perfect.

Here was my not completely satisfactory answer, so other suggestions are welcome: ...

The only three vegetarian restaurants I can think of are Great Sage, Zodiac (1724 N Charles St.), and One World Cafe.

If they don't want to be limited to these, they could also pick an ethnic restaurant that has plenty of vegetarian options like a good Indian restaurant or, even better, the stylish new Lebanese Taverna -- something, perhaps, the doctor hasn't tried yet.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:17 PM | | Comments (5)
        

10 things your restaurant won't tell you

Everyone who likes to eat out regularly should probably take a look at this article from SmartMoney.com on "Ten Things Your Restaurant Will Not Tell You."
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:06 PM | | Comments (1)
        

So good, so bad for you

I woke up this morning with a craving for Tennessee sausage, which means my trip south must be coming up soon. For some reason, sausage patties in Maryland (and, yes, they have to be patties) never taste as good as they do in Tennessee -- even when I buy Tennessee Pride brand in the supermarket. I usually eat a fairly Spartan breakfast, but Tennessee sausage demands biscuits split, buttered, toasted and eaten with homemade jelly or jam.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:01 AM | | Comments (0)
        

Chicken head etiquette

chickenhead

(STR/AFP/Getty Images)

My editor, Kate, stopped over to ask me what I thought the etiquette was in this situation. (Like I would know.) Last weekend she attended an authentic Chinese banquet in a Virginia restaurant, one at which many of the guests were Chinese.

The dinner was seated but had shared dishes. By mistake the first thing she served herself  was the chicken head that was being used as a garnish in a chicken dish. ...

 

She stared at it in horror (it stared back) and decided she couldn't eat anything with a chicken head on her plate. Even if she covered it with a lettuce leaf she would know it was there.

Her dilemma was this: Her plate was untouched. The chicken and its garnish was the first thing she had put on it. Should she put the head back and be able to eat the rest of her meal? Apparently she didn't think of asking for another plate.

Or should she suck it up and try to enjoy her chicken head? (Haha. Just kidding.)

I thought she probably couldn't put it back, but she managed to do it without offending anyone.

Any thoughts?

BTW, I wasn't able to come up with chicken head-specific art, so that's why the generic photo of a restaurant kitchen in China.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:05 AM | | Comments (3)
        

June 12, 2007

Six minute drill

 

medevac2

(Sun Photographer)

Yesterday may have been the most entertaining yet in the monthly Make Over My Meal series I've been doing with the help of my nutritionist guru, Robin Spence.

We visited the heliport on Pier 7 to help a private MedEvac crew with their food issues, which are more complicated than you might think. ...

For instance, the flight nurse had had gastric bypass surgery. (He had weighed 300 pounds.)

For another, when the alarm goes off, as it did when we were there, you can't have a souffle in the oven. They have six minutes to get to the helicopter and take off.

This is going to be a real challenge for Robin to come up with interesting, healthful, sustaining and FAST meals for these guys. I'm working ahead, so this will be the makeover after the one that appears in tomorrow's food section, which I previewed a couple of weeks ago.

 You don't want to miss tomorrow's either, if I do say so myself. It may not have involved life and death action; but if you're interested in losing a few pounds, it's where you'll find out about the First Bite Theory of Eating.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:36 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Best street food?

food

(Sun Photographer)

I love this idea, but like many good ideas for Top Ten Tuesdays, I can't come up with ten. (I do keep thinking about those rib sandwiches; see previous post.) Here's what Deborah Robinson wrote me: ...

How about the Top Ten street food things? Like stuff sold at various farmers' markets (e.g., the grilled portobello sandwich at the market on 32nd St) and "good" dirty water dogs? I remember when Cypriana, now a downtown mainstay with an actual restaurant facility, just sold pitas and gyros out of a cart on Light Street. Great street food. I'm always on the lookout for great street food like you can get EVerywhere in New York!!
If you've already done a column on this, I apologize. I'm late to the party! 
 
Anyway, if you have any favorites, maybe we can come up with ten great ones. Please post below.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:16 PM | | Comments (4)
        

Next Top Ten

italy

(Sun Photographer)

I'm thinking of doing Top Ten Little Italy Restaurants next week because I get this question endlessly, but I'm also open to more exciting suggestions for a topic if anyone has them.

Suggestions? Comments? Recommendations?

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:07 AM | | Comments (8)
        

Top Ten off the beaten path

marticks2 

(Sun Photographer)

This week's top ten is off-the-beaten-path restaurants, places that have a lot going for them -- but not location. Or their location doesn't quite fit their kind of food. These are the restaurants you liked very much last time you went, but then you forget about them; and, like Brigadoon, they don't appear in your consciousness again until there's a list like this one. ...

 

1) Martick's at 214 W. Mulberry St. (410-752-5155) is surely the best known OTBP restaurant in the universe. The octogenerian chef opens when he feels like it, so call first. The setting is quirky, the French food is good, and you have to ring a bell to get in. Mike O. gets the grand prize for guessing it first. No, wait. There is no prize. Just my admiration will have to do.

2) Orchard Market & Cafe always gets positive reviews for its nouvelle (and traditional) Persian food and serene setting, but good luck finding it. You just don't expect to get duck fesenjune in a storefront hidden away in a Towson strip mall.

3) Some people consider Trattoria Alberto Baltimore's finest northern Italian restaurant. The problem is that it's another strip-mall wonder -- in Glen Burnie on Crain Highway, no less, where you might expect a quick casual restaurant, not high-end Old World.

4) It's hard to think of Iggies as off the beaten path when it's located on North Calvert Street, but you just don't look for a chic little place serving authentic Neopolitan pizza in this stretch of Calvert, which can seem kind of deserted at night. 

5) I'm always being asked to recommend restaurants near the Hippodrome. How about what some people consider the best Indian restaurant in Baltimore, MemSahib? I bet even if you've heard of it, you forgot about it.

6) It's not that people don't know about the Chameleon Cafe. It's just that Lauraville doesn't  come to mind when they think of New American cuisine with a French accent. Barbecue, yes. Salmon fillet poached in red wine with hollandaise, no.

7) If traditional airport food doesn't interest you, you can always eat on the way to BWI. How about some "culinary Asia and contemporary fusion"? Little Spice in Hanover is the creation of two sisters whose tiny, pretty restaurant offers more than the usual Thai standards. 

8) Located on a busy stretch of Pulaski Highway in Havre de Grace where a pit beef place used to be,  Aquatica, a fancifully decorated, upscale seafood restaurant with a Pan-Asian accent and a lengthy wine list, comes as a surprise.

9) You don't always have to go to Hampden for hon-food and hon-waitresses. Thanks to Marty for suggesting Jennings Cafe, 808 Frederick Road in Catonsville (410-744-3824). He recommends the burger, the shrimp salad and the cucumber salad.

10) For my final OTBP restaurant, how about one that's hard to find unless you have a boat? Thanks to Karen for suggesting Cantler's Riverside Inn in Annapolis for crabs, beer and tables covered in brown paper.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:20 AM | | Comments (12)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

June 11, 2007

Pet peeves redux

Joyce W just posted this comment under Pet Peeves, but I'm afraid not enough people will go back to read it. It's one of mine, too, so I'm going to repeat it here. ...

I've got a pet peeve, it happened again last night. We were at a casual restaurant in Severna Park, the tables around us were being bused through the meal and I kept getting whiffs of a not so clean cloth mixed with cleaning solution. I appreciate clean tables, but there has got to be a better method.

See? You always get another opportunity to get grumpy on this blog. Just post below.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:15 PM | | Comments (3)
        

Top Ten Tuesday tomorrow

portobello

(Sun Photographer)

I guess I had too much fun at my college reunion this weekend, because it wasn't until this morning that I realized I hadn't told you the topic for Top Ten Tuesday this week.

Tomorrow's Top Ten will be...

Top Ten Off-the-Beaten-Track Restaurants.

Can you guess what #1 will be? If so, post below.

You don't get a prize for guessing right, because it must be the best known off -the-beaten-track restaurant in the universe. But go ahead. If you guess wrong, I may get one I hadn't thought of but should have I'll consider it for the list.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:34 AM | | Comments (4)
        

A closing and a rib sandwich

park%20ave

(Sun Photographer)

I'm usually hesitant to report a closing until I see another restaurant has opened in the same place. But in the case of the Park Avenue Cafe, I have a good tipster -- a former reporter at the Sun who happens to be married to my editor. The restaurant was closed last Thursday, and there was a sign on the door that said something to the effect of "watch this space" and that they hoped to have something new there.

I called, and the number hasn't been disconnected yet, but no one answered on a Friday afternoon before 5 p.m. If I'm wrong, please correct me by posting below. If I'm right, and you know what happened to it, I'd like to know that, too. What's sad is that ...

in her 2004 year-end wrap up, Karen Nitkin, our LIVE reviewer, named the cafe one of eight new places that seemed likely to survive.

And while he was at it, Good Eater John (his wife referred to him that way, not me) passed along this interesting tidbit.

He says there's a hot dog stand at the McKeldin Plaza by the harbor that serves delicious rib sandwiches, at least that's what the man who owns the stand calls them. There are ribs, and sauce, and two slices of white bread on the side. He smokes the ribs early in the morning, then brings them downtown.

I may not get a chance to hunt him down for awhile, so I'm hoping for a report from a Faithful Reader on whether they're as good as John says.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:47 AM | | Comments (1)
        

June 10, 2007

Review preview

 

oz

 (Kim Hairston/Sun Photographer)

A few years ago, glammed-up steak houses were a big trend. The next step in their evolution seems to be the casual upscale steak house, where you can spend just as much but eat your prime steak in shorts and flip-flops.  (Presumably these restaurants would be happier if you dressed up a little more than that, but no one is being turned away at the door.)
 The latest example is oZ. Chophouse in the new community of Maple Lawn in Fulton. True, there is duck and orange roughy on the menu; but the draw is clearly enormous hunks of beef.  
 Given the number of high-end steak houses we have here in Baltimore, is it worth the drive to have dinner at oZ.? My review in next Sunday’s Modern Life section will, I hope, answer that question for you.
 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:56 AM | | Comments (0)
Categories: Review Preview
        

June 9, 2007

Brunch on the water

severn%20inn

(Lloyd Fox/Sun Photographer)

I've been hearing good things lately about the food at the Severn Inn in Annapolis. It turns out there's a new chef, Philip Sokolowski, a former owner of Sam's Waterfront Cafe, also in Annapolis.

So for brunch tomorrow, how about sitting at a table with a water view, drinking mimosas and eating french toast "lasagne," which the Severn Inn's general manager, Jami Adkins, describes as involving "lots of cream and fruit"? ... 

 

If that doesn't strike your fancy, the Sunday brunch buffet, served from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., has an omelet station; a carving station for tenderloin, ham and so on; fish; crab bisque; waffles; chicken, shrimp, and tuna salads; smoked salmon; a dessert bar; and -- oh, yes -- the chocolate fountain, for dipping fruit and pound cake cubes. Mimosas and bloody marys are included.

The cost is $25.95, and reservations are a good idea.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:42 AM | | Comments (2)
Categories: Brunch
        

June 8, 2007

The Obrycki Effect

helmand

(George Holsey/Sun Photographer)

Good Eater Ed sent me an e-mail this morning that brought up an excellent point about out-of-towners who come to Baltimore to eat. He calls it the Obrycki Effect. ...

Our sophisticated New York friends...had occasion to come to an event in Baltimore and they insisted on going to the Helmand. This Baltimore stand-by had been written up in the New York Times a few days before, setting up what I call the Obrycki effect: a New Yorker needs to have his out of town experience validated by his home town newspaper and will bypass truly outstanding local  restaurants in favor of ones that have been mentioned in the Times. As it turned out, the Helmand served us a very good meal. I loved the vanilla ice cream with figs. My only complaint was the fast pace of the service. One felt processed rather than coddled.

I've seen plenty of examples of the Obrycki Effect over the years. Nothing against Obrycki's, but for years it seemed as if there were no other crab houses in town, judging from what tourists knew about us.

And much as I like the Helmand, the idea of coming from New York to eat there seems strange. Are there no Afghan restaurants in the Big Apple?

The picture above was obviously (I hope) taken at the Helmand, not Obrycki's.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:26 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Fab Five Friday: Worst moments

peerces

(Amy Davis/Sun Photographer)

So you think being a restaurant critic is a lark of a job? Well, you're right. But some parts of it are better than others. This week's Fab Five Friday is my five worst moments as a restaurant critic, not counting food. I'll try not to bore you, like telling you (job hazard alert!) how often I get mild food poisoning.

Feel free to share any of your worst moments by posting below.

OK, here goes. ... 

The Low Points

By the way, this time these are in order. 

1) The Rat. I was reviewing Mee Jun Low, a wildly popular Chinese restaurant on Mulberry street that has since closed -- a real dump but with good food -- and I felt something furry brush across my ankle. I knew immediately what it was, and without thought I stood up and screamed.

The rat ran out from under the table and straight into the kitchen. The owner, who was standing at the kitchen door, continued to stand there smiling and nodding his head. Because of my scream, everyone in the place saw it. En masse we stood up and poured out of the restaurant.

My editor at the time wouldn't let me write about it for fear of a lawsuit.

2) The auto accident. While we waited restlessly for our meal on a lovely summer evening on the patio of Peerce's Plantation, now closed, a car skidded on a curve, shot across the road in front of us, bounced once in the air, did a 180-degree turn and landed with a thud, headlights pointing at the patio.

After a moment, everyone started eating again. Our waiter happened to make one of his rare appearances at that point, so I asked if someone should go help. 

He looked over, as if noticing the car for the first time. "No," he said. "It happened once today already. I'll go call the police." 

Eventually a man got out of the car, staggered across the road toward us, and disappeared into the front entrance. A woman got out on the other side a few minutes later and did the same thing. The police never came. End of story.

The evening went downhill from there, from the mold on the bread to the forgotten dessert. In my review I didn't mention the feral cats that prowled the patio because I didn't want some agency to come, collect them, and have them killed.

3) The duel. I once took my tween daughter on a review of a pizza place along with two friends, a man and a woman, who hadn't met before. They hated each other on sight, and argued and sniped at each other the whole meal. My kid watched with wide open eyes; she hadn't seen adults act that way before.

At the end of the meal the waitress asked if she could bring us anything else.

"Yes," the man said. "Dueling pistols."

4) The missed connection. I had to go back a second time to the Bahama Breeze in Towson for my review because it was so chaotic when it first opened I never hooked up with my guests.

When we arrived, we took the table we were offered instead of waiting by the hostess station because there were 8,000 people in line behind us. The hostesses promised to seat our friends when they got there. They did -- in another room. Strangely enough, even though I and my guests kept checking back with the station, it never occurred to anyone that we might be part of the same party.

5) The impersonation. OK, I didn't happen to be there for this one, but still. A dreadful couple eating at the Ruby Lounge, now closed, in Mount Vernon complained continuously throughout the meal, and at the end the man called the owner, Donna Crivello, over. His wife, a brassy blonde with a too-low-cut blouse, too-tight-pants and too-high heels, had left the table for the ladies room. After telling Donna all the things that had been wrong, he leaned over confidingly and said, "And we ought to know because she (pointing to his returning wife) is Elizabeth Large."

Luckily Donna had worked at the Sun for several years before she left to open her restaurants, so she knew it wasn't me. (That's why I don't review her places.) She just nodded and smiled, but I hate the idea someone that awful was impersonating me. 

If you insist I had to be there for it to count as one of the Fab Five, then I would have to say the fifth one would be the time a friend of mine slipped a menu in her purse to make it easier for me to write the review, and the waiter came over to her and said, "We're going to have to have that back."

 I slunk down in my chair about as low as I could go as she handed it back to him.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:05 AM | | Comments (18)
        

June 7, 2007

Of Petalo's and Victor's

victors

(Kim Hairston/Sun Photographer)

In another month, no one will be asking me about eating outdoors. It will be too hot and too humid to even consider it. But right now I'm still getting e-mails like this one from Roberta Van Meter: ...

I enjoy your column & have tried many of your recommendations.
I am having out of town guests the end of June.  They want to go Little Italy for lunch and love eating outdoors.  Any recommendations?  If no recommendations in Little Italy, how about someplace close to Little Italy?? I love the Piedegrotta Bakery and we could go there for dessert and still get some sense of Little Italy. 
Also, do you know who took over Victor's Café???  That was such a nice outdoor place.  If there is a new owner, would you recommend them for lunch???
Thanks for your reply
Dear Roberta,
I was waiting to answer until I tried the new Petalo's, where Luigi Petti was, because that's a nice outdoor space in Little Italy. However, I haven't gotten there yet, and I want to make sure you get some answer from me.
As far as I know, the Victor's space is completely closed now to make room for the proposed Four Seasons Hotel. The owner moved up north of the city and opened a much smaller, more casual place in Timonium, also called Victor's, which got a generally positive review from our other restaurant critic, Karen Nitkin.
Thanks for reading,
Elizabeth
ps: If anyone has any other suggestions in the Little Italy area, please post below.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:34 PM | | Comments (1)
        

Fab Five Friday tomorrow

Don't forget that there's a slightly different format this week on account of too much partying (by me) in Los Angeles over the weekend. Instead of Top Ten Tuesday, this week it's Fab Five Friday. And, in fact, there will be a Fab Five instead of a Top Ten any time Tuesday comes around too fast or I can't think of 10 of something but the topic is good. Tomorrow's Fab Five will be my five worst moments as a restaurant critic, not counting bad food.

I haven't got a topic for next week's Top Ten yet, so please post below if you have any suggestions. And tune in tomorrow. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:06 PM | | Comments (2)
        

But can you make a bearnaise sauce?

One of the ongoing discussions between restaurant owners and restaurant critics, as much as they actually discuss anything, is whether a critic should have worked in a restaurant or been formally trained as a chef. ... 

As you can imagine, the owners usually come down on the side of yes, while critics (at least ones like me who haven't been trained as chefs) argue that they are reader advocates, not in the business of being sympathetic to the problems of running a restaurant. Although, believe it or not, I am.

My favorite restaurant critic, I should say ex-critic, William Grimes of the New York Times, was once asked what made him qualified to be a restaurant reviewer of the greatest eating city in America. He said something like, "My editor appointed me."

Obviously you have to love food and be knowledgeable about it even if you haven't ever cooked for a living. But just as important, I believe, is that you have to be able to write in an entertaining way about your meal.

I like to think if you read my reviews, they are helpful or at least interesting. A reader once told me he never agreed with anything I said, but at least I was consistent. He knew if I liked a place, he'd hate it and vice versa.

By the way, if you think you could do a better job, please don't write to me applying to be the Sun's restaurant reviewer, as one would-be critic did recently.

I realize I'm opening a can of worms here, but what do you think? Would you rather have a critic who attended the Culiinary Institute of America? Feel free to post below.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:25 AM | | Comments (5)
        

June 6, 2007

Happy birthday, Miss Shirley

 

shirley

(Kim Hairston/Sun Photographer)

Good Eater Helen tells me that she had breakfast at Miss Shirley's in Roland Park Tuesday, and -- surprise -- it turned out the popular breakfast and lunch spot was celebrating Miss Shirley's 65th birthday. I should say her memory, because she's dead, but...

in honor of the event, Miss Shirley's daughter, Darcenia, was in attendance to talk about her mom, Shirley McDowell, a longtime employee of Classic Catering Co., the Dopkin family business. When she died a couple of years ago, Eddie Dopkin decided to name his new place in her honor.

More places ought to do fun stuff like this. There were party hats and gifts for the customers (a lottery scratch off ticket). Good Eater Helen won $2. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:29 PM | | Comments (3)
        

Where is he now?

winemarket

(Christopher T. Assaf/Sun Photographer)

When I got back to my desk this morning -- only slightly jet lagged, thank you -- I found this e-mail from Carol Ann Cohen:

do you know the whereabouts of chef david ian stanford, who used to be chef at the wine market?  i would like to get his recipe for grand marnier bread pudding, but can't seem to locate him.  thank you! ...

I called the Wine Market, and they told me he had moved on to Donna's at Cross Keys. I called there and they confirmed it (although at Donna's he's known as Ian Stanford).

When you get the recipe, Carol, I hope you'll share it. Grand Marnier bread pudding sounds like just the thing for jet lag.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:03 AM | | Comments (2)
        

June 5, 2007

Looking ahead

 Lynn_Cyrus_springtime_in_sewanee_tennessee1163534281_1.jpg

Photo of Sewanee by Lynn Cyrus 

I don't want you to think the only place I travel to is L.A., or that you're going to be treated to an endless succession of mini-reviews of chic little West Coast meals. Not at all. Here's what's coming up for me when I'm not eating in Baltimore restaurants ...

I'll be spending a week this summer in Sewanee, Tenn., population 2,361, and I'll be eating out every night. My mother used to complain that all a vacation was for her was a change of sinks, so I make sure when I'm on vacation I dine out every night, and every meal if I'm lucky.

The dining choices in Sewanee are, shall we say, limited. On the other hand, it's a college town and a place so beautiful that people with money retire there, so there's more than you might think.

Then in September I'll be visiting Rome, Florence and Venice, and there's probably some good eating there as well. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:22 AM | | Comments (2)
        

June 4, 2007

New American in Los Feliz

vermontout.jpg

Last night we had dinner at Vermont in Los Feliz, so called because it's on Vermont Avenue, not because the food remotely resembles anything a New Englander would recognize as regional fare. It was a wild experience. The block had been closed off for a street fair, which this usually more upscale restaurant was participating in ...

That meant they had a special menu featuring the street food they were serving outside. (Assuming you could even get to the front door through the crowds. Alcohol was flowing freely.) Inside was cool and spare and relatively quiet, but most people were still having plates of ribs and french fries along with their bottles of pinot noir.

I'm not eating ribs in southern California, so I ordered an avocado and orange salad made with butter lettuce and shaved Manchego cheese, followed by one of the most beautiful pasta dishes I've ever seen. It tasted good, too.

I'm learning this food photography thing isn't as easy as it looks. The Spring Pasta, in a white bowl, was brilliantly colored: fresh red beet and yellow egg noodle pasta tossed with bright green asparagus tips, fresh peas and slivered carrots in a sage sauce. But my photo of it looks like a large colorful blob. Instead I'll show you a couple of interiors.

vermont.jpg

 

vermontin.jpg

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:51 AM | | Comments (0)
        

June 3, 2007

Coupa Cafe

IMG_0075.jpg

 

We came across Coupa Cafe on Canon Drive in Beverly Hills yesterday. Baltimore ethnic restaurants (with some obvious exceptions) tend to be inexpensive and not very stylish. That's not true here -- imagine finding an Indian restaurant called Electric Karma or a Thai place called Cool Basil in B-more.  

coups.jpg

 

We were looking for a place to have salads for lunch. Coupa is Venezuelan, so with my trendy salad of arugula, toasted walnuts and shaved parmesan with a lemon vinaigrette and my daughter's Mediterranean salad, we were served delicious arepas, delicate little white cornmeal cakes studded with sweet red pepper and cheese.

There are empanadas and Venezuelan specialties but also croissants, omelets, pizza, waffles and panini. It's a mix of breakfast and light meal favorites in a pretty indoor-outdoor setting that my photography doesn't do justice to.

We're off to Vermont for dinner tonight. 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:04 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Review preview

 

crackpot 

(Jed Kirschbaum/Sun Photographer)

The Crackpot in Bel Air has steamed crabs all year round, but this is the time of year we Marylanders start thinking seriously about them.  The Crackpot is also known for its crab cakes — 10 different varieties, ranging from the original to the Pounder Plus (a 20-ounce cake) with stops in Italy (crab cake with marinara) and Mexico (crab cake with salsa, onion and green pepper).

But is a meal there worth the trip up 95 to Bel Air for Baltimoreans who can more easily eat at the first Crackpot on Loch Raven Boulevard? Next Sunday’s review in the Modern Life section will answer that question. Feel free to post below if you’ve eaten at the Crackpot and want to weigh in.
 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:08 AM | | Comments (1)
Categories: Review Preview
        

June 2, 2007

Eureka!

I've come up with a theme for next week's Fab Five Friday. (I'll be in the friendly skies of United flying back to Baltimore when I would normally be writing Top Ten Tuesday, so that's why the change of day.)

It wasn't easy coming up with a category that there were five of but not ten of, but I think I've done it. And it's one you won't want to miss. ... 

 

Next week's Fab Five Friday will be my five worst moments as a restaurant critic.

I'm not going to take the easy way out and talk about bad food. These will be more interesting.

Feel free to post below if you've had some terrible moments that weren't just a burnt steak. You'll get a second chance next Friday.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:42 PM | | Comments (4)
        

Tea Among the Roses

I've become the person I hate.

The one who takes flash photos in dining rooms.

I bought a digital camera just so I could take photos to go on my blog when I'm away from the Sun's wonderful photographers. This is, believe it or not, my first digital camera, so the picture quality may not be, er, quite as professional as what you're used to seeing on this blog. ...

TeaRoom.jpg

Tea at the Huntington botanical gardens was lovely, although I would have preferred it not to be a buffet. (Tea and tiny scones, cream, butter and jam are brought to the table. The rest is up to you.) I ignored the salads, fruits, cheeses and desserts and stuck to the finger sandwiches and scones.

 It made me want to have my own afternoon tea, and here was what was best about it:

The tea was brewed, not bagged (although you probably can't tell much difference in taste, it seems nicer).

Everything was miniature: apricot and cranberry scones the size of 50 cent pieces, for instance.

The little finger sandwiches with their crusts cut off had wonderful fillings: My favorite was an open-faced Parma ham on rye with a tiny squiggle of cream cheese and a slender asparagus tip stuck on top.

Other fillings between white or brown bread slices were tarragon chicken with walnuts, shredded carrot and shredded gingerroot in cream cheese (yum), cucumber and fresh mint and an egg salad. There were also open-faced smoked salmon sandwiches.  

Of course, it helps if you have a lovely setting, like a tea room that overlooks a rose garden. Tea is expensive here, $19.95 a person, but well worth it because it supports such spectacular landscaping.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:25 PM | | Comments (0)
        

June 1, 2007

English tea in L.A.

By the time you read this I may be having afternoon tea in the Rose Garden Tea Room at the Huntington. That's in Los Angeles. My daughter is taking me for Mother's Day today. OK, a little late, but we were on opposite coasts on May 13.

I've eaten at some chi-chi L.A. restaurants where we didn't have to make reservations this far in advance. In May and June the tea room is booked up a month ahead, but I think that has more to do with the roses in bloom than the food.

Meanwhile I'm trying to talk my daughter into eating at the Hungry Cat, which is within walking distance of her apartment. It's celebrity chef Suzanne Goin's third restaurant, along with Lucques (where I saw Kirk Douglas and Walter Cronkite having one of Goin's famous Sunday Suppers together one night) and AOC wine bar. But she says the only thing she'd want to eat on the menu is the chocolate bread pudding.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:48 AM | | Comments (1)
        
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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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