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May 31, 2007

When good restaurants go bad

I'd like to know if anyone has had good luck complaining after a bad experience at a restaurant. What works? What doesn't? Why don't restaurants write soothing letters even if they aren't sincere and even if they don't want to send a gift certificate or whatever?

Why not at least respond?

Maybe a restaurateur would post a few suggestions about the way to go about complaining. (I can always hope.)

Here's the e-mail that got me thinking. I'm eliminating the name of the restaurant because I don't know what the situation was: ...

Dear Ms. Large:

I apologize for this complaint that has nothing to do with you, but I wanted to vent somewhere.  And I noticed you reviewed [name omitted] in December 2006.

My wife and I had an unusually bad experience there earlier this month.  The next day I spent about a half an hour writing a letter, which I admit at times was salty, but they never even bothered to respond.  My time is valuable, so I can't believe they didn't even have the decency to call me.  Also we go out several times a week to Baltimore restaurants, we tip well and I haven't felt the need to send a complaint letter to any restaurant for several years.  So its not like I just get upset over nothing.

Baltimore's restaurant scene is fairly close knit and competitive.  I didn't think this lack of customer service could survive here?  Regardless thanks for lettting me vent. 

Sincerely,


Adam Edward Rothwell

 

---

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:14 PM | | Comments (2)
        

How do you keep it off?

If you're reading this blog, chances are you're a Good Eater like Nichole Battle. Food is a passion and sometimes an obsession.

makeover

(Gene Sweeney/Sun Photographer)

Nichole is the subject of our next Make Over My Meal.She wants to lose 35 pounds by the time she takes a trip to China in August. Our nutritionist guru, Robin Spence (whose face you can see in the photo), had some great advice for her, including the intriguing First Bite Theory of Eating and the equally intriguing Last Bite Theory of Eating. ...

 

Don't expect to read them here. You'll have to look in the Taste section (in print or online) on Wednesday, June 13.

I myself live by the Four Cookie Rule, which I invented because I don't like to deny myself anything, ever. It goes like this:

You can have four cookies, or four of any other treat (chocolate truffles, pastry hors d'oeuvres, whatever) but no more. When you get to Krispy Kreme doughnuts, that may seem like too many, but if Krispy Kremes are your thing, you'd probably otherwise eat the whole box. Four is better than all.

And the Four Cookie Rule doesn't say you have to eat four. Just that you're not a bad person if you do.

I (and probably every other reader of this blog) would be interested if you have good strategies for having your cake and eating it too.

Please post below.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:42 AM | | Comments (2)
        

May 30, 2007

Leaving town

Yes, I'm flying back to Los Angeles tomorrow night. I plan to blog from there, but I won't be able to have a Top Ten Tuesday next week because I'll be flying back that day. (While eating a delicious Urth Caffe salad. More about that later.)

However, I have a plan B...

Fab Five Friday. I haven't actually come up with a topic for Fab Five Friday, so if you have any suggestions, please post below. It has to be something that there are a legitimate five of but not ten of. Too bad I used up basement restaurants.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:50 PM | | Comments (1)
        

Al Fresco in New York

untitled.bmp

I'm stuck here at my desk, but if you're heading for New York, print this out. It's the Michelin Guide's favorite places to eat outdoors in the Big Apple:

·  Liberty View (Chinese), 21 South End Ave. (below W. Thames St.), 212-768-1888
·  I Trulli (Italian), 122 E. 27th St. (between Lexington Ave. & Park Ave. South), 212-481-7372
·  5 Ninth (Contemporary), 5 Ninth Ave. (at Little W 12th St.), 212-929-9460
·  Ono (Japanese), 18 Ninth Ave. (at 13th St.), 212-660-6766
·  Pastis (French), 9 Ninth Ave. (at Little West 12th St.), 212-929-4844
·  Kittichai (Thai), 60 Thompson St. (between Broome & Spring streets.), 212-219-2000
·  Boathouse Central Park (American), The Lake at Central Park (E. 72 St. & Park Drive North), 212-517-2233
·  Five Front (Contemporary), 5 Front St. (between Dock & Old Fulton streets), 718-625-5559
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:01 PM | | Comments (0)
        

The UnVespa

vespa

(Amy Davis/Sun Photographer)

I've been keeping my eye on the space that used to be Vespa Cafe and Wine Bar at 1117 S. Charles in Federal Hill, but no one will tell me anything.

I really liked that place. (It closed a couple of years ago. The picture above was taken when it first opened in 1999.)

Anyway, I've known for some time that new owners were renovating the space, planning to open I thought this summer ...

and I even tracked down one of the partners who will be the chef, Mike Russell. He's presently working at Donna's in Cross Keys.

But he seems to be reluctant to talk about the project. I've gotten hold of his cell phone number and have been hounded the poor guy for days, but he never returns my calls.

I had heard that there's a sign on the door saying that construction has been halted while they get some permit, but I haven't been down to see for myself.

If anyone knows anything, please post below. And keep checking the blog. When I find out anything, I'll let you know.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:20 AM | | Comments (0)
        

May 29, 2007

The World's Greatest Potato Salad

There has been a general outcry for the recipe for The World's Greatest Potato Salad (OK, one person) so here it is. The recipe for cold poached salmon with dill mayonnaise will make its appearance at a later date: ...

Take some number of boiling potatoes, you decide, peel them, cut them in half and boil until they are just cooked, not a second more. Dice them into neat little cubes -- appearance is important here.

Pour over the potato cubes while they're still warm a tart dressing made of good olive oil and wine vinegar, equal parts of each, salt and freshly ground pepper. Don't use balsamic vinegar; there shouldn't be a hint of sweetness in this potato salad. And don't soak them in it.

I like a little onion in it but not much, so I cut an onion in half and scrape some onion juice into it. There should not be any pieces of raw onion. Chill.

Peel celery stalks, cut them into very thin crescents, and add the amount that seems right to you. Neatly chop lots of green olives stuffed with pimiento and add those as well.

Just before serving, add just enough good-quality mayonnaise such as Hellmann's (actually is there any other good-quality store-bought mayonnaise?) to coat the neat little potato cubes lightly. Taste for seasonings and add more salt, pepper or vinegar if necessary. Do not add pickles. Do not add chopped egg. Do not add mustard.

Serve on a platter lined with leaves of boston lettuce.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:11 PM | | Comments (5)
        

Insight from No. 52

ray

(Karl Merton Ferron/Sun Photographer)

Thanks to ravngrl for the kind words she posted under Top Ten today. My philosophical guru Ray Lewis (and from her user name I'm guessing hers also) once said something like, "They pay me $70 million to practice. Sundays I give them for free." They pay me -- well, slightly less than Ray  -- to write; blogging I give them for free.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:01 PM | | Comments (0)
        

I failed Mrs. Knauer

 crab

(Algerina Perna/Sun Photographer)

The really sad part is that I have no memory of her original e-mail.

Anyway, I promised her I would post her e-mail here, both to let other people know what restaurant delivers steamed crabs and in the hope that someone might post the names of other places.

Not sure who the Director is she's referring to ...

Since April I have been waiting for any results, from you, for my plea to find any store that delivers crabs.  I told you I did not drive and I just had total knee replacement.  Obviously I received no answer also not even from your Director. 

Well I had to discover how to get crabs on my own.

In the phone book I noticed Obrycki's mails crabs and uses a messenger to deliver here in Baltimore. To distant areas they mail.  Bless their hearts to appease an elderly person. My crabs were heaven sent and I enjoyed the crabs tremendously.  Mrs Knauer

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:26 PM | | Comments (1)
        

Top Ten Hot Weather Treats

I'm going to avoid the obvious, generic ones: tomatoes, peaches and just-picked corn on the cob would top just about everyone's list.

summer

 (Peter Parks/AFP)

And I'm not going to mention the treats I have and you don't, like cold poached salmon with dill mayonnaise and the World's Greatest Potato Salad at Chez Large.

That still leaves a lot of great summer food out there. Unfortunately, when I went back over the restaurants I'd been to in the last couple of years, I realized I didn't necessarily go to the area's best during the summer months. So you may know about some wonderful hot-weather dishes that I don't. If so, please post below.

Finally, the usual disclaimer: I don't know if these ten will all be available this summer. I just hope so... 

* Spicy-salty steamed crabs, heavy and sweet, at Mr. Bill’s Terrace Inn in Essex.  Even the small ones are worth the trip.

* Gazpacho that tastes like the essence of summer, made with three varieties of heirloom tomatoes, lobster lumps and curried creme fraiche at Charleston, Inner Harbor East.

* An ice-cold lemonade at Earth's Essence in the Belvedere Square Market: two whole organic lemons, superfine sugar, ice, and water whirred, rinds and all, in a blender.

*  Grilled sweet corn sprinkled with chili powder and lots of cojita cheese (something like parmesan) at Mex in Power Plant Live. The result is sweet, hot and salty. Best when corn is in season, obviously.

* Sangria at Tapas Teatro on North Charles Street. Simply the best — not too sweet, not too strong. Just right.

*Chilled asparagus with roasted peppers and shaved parmesan at the Oregon Grille in Hunt Valley.

* Fresh peach ice cream at Moxley’s in  Towson.

* A curried chicken salad sandwich at the Stone Mill Bakery in Lutherville, preferably on a freshly baked croissant.

* The salade de haricots verts at Petit Louis in Roland Park composed of  just-tender baby green beans, mache, almonds and a great lemon dressing.

* Fat Queen Anne cherries from Reid's Orchard. (You have three shots at them that I know about: the Waverly Market on Saturday, the one under the viaduct on Sunday, and the market in Towson on Thursday. But you better get there early because they go fast.)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:52 AM | | Comments (5)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

May 28, 2007

Restaurant rest rooms

Writing about rest rooms at length isn't something I really want to do in a review. It somehow doesn't seem appropriate. But occasionally a well-designed rest room is the most interesting if not the most important part of a restaurant's decor. (Think I'm kidding? Check out the new Lebanese Taverna's unisex bathroom.)

Last night I ate at the oZ. Chophouse in Maple Lawn. The interior is pretty much what you'd expect in a suburban steak house where people are eating $30 steaks in their shorts and flip flops but ... 

the ladies room surprised me. Its contemporary decor is luxurious, handsome and quite soothing. The double sink is formed by a large wave in the middle, with smooth round pebbles laid (loose) in each side, so it looks very Japanese. As you wash your hands and the water runs over the stones you could do a Zen meditation. The paper towels are so high quality they're practically cloth. The toilets have their own little rooms.

Everything is automatic. Not just the toilets and the water, but the soap dispenser and even the trash can, which whirs and then pops open invitingly when you get near it.

More about the food later. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:36 AM | | Comments (2)
        

May 27, 2007

Review preview

abacrombie

 (Doug Kapustin/Sun Photographer)

I can’t take my husband anywhere. After his first taste of the amuse bouche at Abacrombie (a demitasse cup of chilled fruit soup with creme fraiche and beet foam), he pronounced, “I’ve had good beet foam and bad beet foam, and this is the best beet foam I’ve ever tasted.” 

 The waiter gave him in odd look.

I guess the whole foam-as-garnish trend may seem a little precious to some people, but when it’s done right…Anyway, in next Sunday’s Modern Life section I’ll be reviewing the handiwork of Abacrombie’s new chef, Michael Putnam. Does his cooking live up to his predecessor’s, Sonny Sweetman?
 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:02 AM | | Comments (0)
        

May 26, 2007

Brunch in Canton

helen

(Algerina Perna/Sun Photographer)

The only problem with brunch this weekend at Helen's Garden in Canton is that there's no garden. Brunch is taken seriously here. A limited brunch menu is served on Saturday from 11:30 a.m. until 2 p.m., and a much more elaborate version on Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Besides the regular brunch menu, there are usually 14 specials on Sundays...

Owner Tom Looney says the most popular dish is a Tilghman (as in the island) Omelet with crab, asparagus and an Old Bay aioli. But there are international accents as well, like the London Eggs scrambled with curry powder, onions, peas and feta cheese.

Brunch is a big deal, Looney says, so the covered deck, usually reserved for private parties, is opened on the weekend. Because it's so popular, reservations are a must.

Have you had a great brunch lately? Let me know about it.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:52 AM | | Comments (1)
Categories: Brunch
        

May 25, 2007

You Be the Critic

So you think I have all the fun? This is your opportunity to be the restaurant critic. If you've have a meal in the past month at a local restaurant, and you'd like to post a mini-review below, go for it. Civility would be appreciated, even if you didn't like your experience.

milton%20inn

(Barbara Haddock Taylor)

If anyone actually takes me up on this, I'll see if I can move this entry to the top of the queue during the holiday weekend, so that others can read what you have to say even if they aren't scrolling through the blog.

By the way, this photo was taken at the Milton Inn.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:17 PM | | Comments (2)
        

Hello Goodbye

kim

(Doug Kapustin/Sun Photographer)

Edward Kim, the chef who opened Ixia, owned Soigne for a while, moved on to DC and then came back to Baltimore to recreate Saffron in Mount Vernon as a "modern American" restaurant, is on the move again...

His one-year contract is up, and he's leaving as of June 17. (No, he doesn't have another job as yet, although he's looking in this area.)

So if you never got around to trying his unique cuisine --  part Asian, part European, a little Latino thrown in for good measure -- you have about another month to do so.

No word yet on who will replace him. I have a call in to owner Tony Chemmanoor, and I'll let you know what he says when we connect up. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:54 PM | | Comments (3)
        

Put a cork in it

wine

 (Bob Fila/Chicago Tribune)

I had dinner at the new (as of last year) Crackpot in Bel Air recently, and saw something on the menu I hadn't seen before...

At the bottom of the menu it said something like feel free to take your unfinished bottle of wine home with you. Put the cork back in securely and store it in the car away from passengers and driver.

The state passed legislation last year making it OK to recork wine and take it home as long as it's stored in the trunk or locked glove compartment. But I haven't noticed any restaurant reminding its patrons of the law until this one. Or have I missed something?

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:16 AM | | Comments (4)
Categories: Wine and Spirits
        

Blog vs. Print

Here's an e-mail I got Tuesday from Jeffrey F.:

I live in Canton and I have tried Ray Lewis's place once.  The beef brisket is okay but no where near as good as JD's Smokehouse brisket.  The difference is quality is so great that I have not been back to Ray Lewis's.  I am not sure if brisket does not count as BBQ as described in your article, but if it is I cannot respect the rest of the list and must assume you just picked places by name and advertising.  That really sucks becasue I was looking forward to reading your article when I saw the headline and learning about some new places to eat.  But now I just can't respect the list.

Dear Jeffrey F.,

I'm glad you sent me this e-mail because it gives me a chance to clear something up...

In print I'm expected to give pronouncements from on high and, rightly or wrongly, I do it.

The great thing about the Internet and specifically my blog is that it's a joint effort. I throw something out -- places I've tried myself or have heard have good barbecue, for instance -- and then readers comment on my list. Maybe they learn something, or maybe I do. (That JD's has good brisket, for instance.) Or both.

Also, be sure to go back and check for new comments on earlier entries if the subject interests you, like Robert's last night on Big Changes at Pazo.

Thanks for reading,

Elizabeth

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:10 AM | | Comments (2)
        

May 24, 2007

The Secret Garden

I just walked past it, and I see that the urban garden of the 4 E. Madison Inn is open for business again this summer. The inn has a lunch spot on its brick patio surrounded by huge shade trees.

Don't expect a professional operation. It's more as if you were having lunch in someone's back yard. There are a few sandwiches for $6 and some salads for $7 and $8.

 Call 410-332-0880 for more information, like hours. I just glanced at the menu posted on the gate as I went by. (There's no sign or anything.)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:26 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Big changes at Pazo

 

pazo

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun Photographer)

Pazo, Cindy Wolf and Tony Foreman's Fells Point tapas restaurant, has a new chef and a new format. Michael Costa took over as executive chef a couple of weeks ago and he's made some major changes in the menu...

 

Tapas is still part of the mix, but there are now also main courses to choose from. Here's a link to the new menu.

The official line is that the change is simply to make guests happy with more choices. But the owners of the Charleston group of restaurants are savvy enough to make me wonder if the tapas craze has peaked. Maybe things are starting to trend the other way, back to more traditional ways of having dinner.

I hope to speak to Costa after the long weekend, and when I find out more, I'll have an item in my restaurant news column, Table Talk, which appears in the Wednesday food section. He's been  in Pazo's kitchen for about a year, and before that worked in Paris and in Citronelle in DC.

By the way, Costa takes over as executive chef from Tony Foreman. As the pr woman said to me, "Something not widely known, that Tony is a chef."

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:55 AM | | Comments (10)
        

May 23, 2007

Musings from Whole Foods

Has anyone else fallen in love with the Ataulfo mangoes from Mexico, also known as champagne mangoes, that are now available at Whole Foods, and for all I know at other gourmet produce sections in town? They aren't as pretty or large as the variety we're used to seeing. (It's the small one in the middle of the picture below). Not only that, they were 99 cents when the big, beautiful ones were 79 cents. But the flavor is richer and just better to my mind. 

mango

(Davie Hinshaw/Charlotte Observer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:30 PM | | Comments (4)
        

We Need You

Robin

 (Amy Davis/Sun Photographer)

I'm looking for the latest guinea pig in my Make Over My Meal series. Maybe you know someone who'd be interested. The idea is that we (registered dietitian Robin Spence and I) go in and find a way to make a favorite meal more nutritious.

The problem is that after several months, we've covered the obvious meals and the obvious situations.  We've run out of volunteers. Now we're looking for a little more diversity, either ethnic or racial.

Anybody know anyone who might be willing to participate? You get a free "after" meal out of it, plus a consultation with a nutritionist from Union Memorial that might otherwise cost you big bucks.

If you're interested, please e-mail me at elizabeth.large@baltsun.com.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:57 PM | | Comments (0)
        

The Next Top Ten Tuesday

In honor of the unofficial start of summer, the post-Memorial Day Top Ten Tuesday will be hot weather treats that have made me happy. I'm not talking about some snow cone I had as a child, but things I've gotten at places around here.

As of now the weather forecast looks good for next Tuesday: mostly sunny and  a high near 80 degrees.

lemonade

(Algerina Perna/Sun Photographer)

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:46 AM | | Comments (3)
        

The best bagel

I stopped in at Einstein Bagels on York Road for a little snack Sunday. Now don't be offended, but I'm not a bagel purist. I had a poppy-dipped bagel toasted twice so it was nice and hot, with butter running down into the little crevices and grape jelly on it. And a large cup of English Breakfast tea with milk.

bagel2

(John Makely/Sun Photographer)

Einstein is my favorite place to get bagels around here ...

but my kid favors Greg's Bagels in Belvedere Square (toasted cinnamon raisin with apricot spread, no butter). They're a bit too dense for my taste, but I know I'm in the minority here.

When I first came to Baltimore I would drive half an hour Sunday mornings to somewhere in Pikesville to get hot, freshly made bagels. It was the only bagel shop in the area. Was it called the Bagel Shoppe? I can't quite remember, but they were fabulous bagels -- the first I ever had.  

Feel free to post below if you have a favorite bagel place. (Or if you remember if it was the Bagel Shoppe.)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:03 AM | | Comments (11)
        

May 22, 2007

More on bread pudding

breadpudding

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun Photographer)

We got so many comments about bread pudding after my Top Ten Tuesday list of desserts that Sam Sessa, otherwise known as Carry Out Sam, got the brilliant idea of doing a Takeout column on the subject. (I think it was Ale Mary's Krispy Kreme bread pudding that really set him off.)

Check it out in tomorrow's Taste section. See if you agree with him, and then post your comments below.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:03 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Commenting 101

From e-mail I get from readers I'm guessing a lot of you are old hands at eating meals at good restaurants but new to blogs. Here's one from Patti, for instance, who writes:

Been actually reading the blog.  Interesting - I like it.  Didn't quite understand the approval thing or the URL in order to post a comment.

Good questions. The URL first. ...

(By the way, you have to click on the underlined "Commenting 101" below to read the rest of this post.)

 

In all the comments I've gotten, no one has ever put in his or her URL, or Web address. Why did the people who designed this blog software put in that blank? I guess because they thought I'd have lots of extra time on my hands to browse other people's Web sites.

The e-mail address thing makes more sense. I might get interested in something you said and want to know more (as when Ann posted a comment about the SeaSide restaurant, which I'd never heard of.) But still, I think it may scare people off. I wish they'd get rid of it.

So let me say it again: You don't have to put in an e-mail address. Just leave it blank. You definitely don't have to put in your URL in the unlikely event you have one. And you don't even have to put in your real name or any name. Just comment.

As for the site owner approving the comment before it's posted, I hate to tell you, but that's me. I read over a comment  to make sure it a) isn't computer-generated spam, b) doesn't contain obscenities, c) doesn't involve personal attacks on other posters or my very nice colleagues. (I'm fair game.) I don't edit it for spelling or grammar. Then I post it as quickly as I can.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:57 AM | | Comments (2)
        

Piggly Wiggly

wolf

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun Photographer)

I’m originally from Tennessee, so I should know more about barbecue than any of you Northerners who live in Maryland, but I don’t. Plus I don’t get to as many barbecue joints as I’d like to, because I’m too busy reviewing “finer” restaurants.


With a little help from my friends —mainly Happy Eater Rob Kasper and Marty Katz, who says his business card says “BBQ Research” and swears it’s a tough gig — I compiled this list for today’s Top Ten Tuesday. The places aren’t in any particular order, and they aren’t really favorites this week. It’s more that if you’re doing BBQ research, you ought to visit each of these at least once...

1) Andy Nelson’s BBQ in Cockeysville is the one with the pig on the roof, and seems to be the favorite of the barbecue aficionados I talked to. The draw is slow-cooked, hickory-smoked barbecue, including pulled pork and ribs with deliciously charred, fall-off-the-bone meat.


2) Big Bad Wolf’s House of Barbeque in Hamilton was one of my two 4-star establishments for 2004, to the horror of some of my readers. I loved the the crusty, meaty beef ribs with the Kansas City Spicy Sauce. (There were six different styles of sauce offered when I ate there.)


3) Corner Stable in Cockeysville was reviewed by the Sun’s other restaurant critic, Karen Nitkin. She liked its ribs almost as much as I liked the barbecue at Big Bad Wolf’s. (She gave the food 3 ½ stars). They’re baby back ribs from Denmark, cooked with an secret heirloom sauce, not too sweet or too tart.


4) Carry Out Sam Sessa recommends Smokey Hollow BBQ Co. in Laurel. From his description, I've got to try it: "Texas brisket [is] heavy and smoky but soft enough to slice with the side of a plastic fork." One of its sauces took fourth place in the 2006 National Barbecue Association Awards of Excellence.


5) At Bare Bones in Ellicott City the house specialty ribs are meaty and dripping with good sauce, but they don’t come cheap. Still, they are a favorite of several in the know. Thanks to Dave for pointing out that they caramelize the sauce on the ribs. Hard to find.


6) Thanks to John Surrick for suggesting Bayside Bull, on Rt. 214 in Edgewater, which he says “always has great BBQ and ribs.” Our in-house BBQ expert Rob says it’s a place people have told him about, but he hasn’t gotten there yet.


7) If you can stand the idea of barbecue with wi-fi, I recommend the barbecued chicken at Milton’s Grill downtown. This isn’t a barbecue joint, but a restaurant with good barbecue. Don’t miss the soft, hot giant roast sweet potato that comes as a side.


8) Ray Lewis’ Full Moon Bar-B-Que in Canton is owned by a guy who once said that he doesn’t let his body fat fall below 7 percent. I love that. Have some more of your fried onion rings, ribs, potato salad and pecan pie, Ray. The barbecue isn’t bad at this opulent shrine to our favorite linebacker.


9) Blue Agave’s Michael Marx opened Rub in South Baltimore last year. The place is quite stylish in its own way (kind of weird but nice in a barbecue joint), and meat is the star: It involves dry rubs, an oak wood smoker and long hours of slow cooking.


10) Razorback’s in Towson is proud of the fact that it’s not a typical rib place, but the baby back ribs are still good. You can get them with four different sauces: Kentucky bourbon, Caribbean spiced rum chili mango, a spicy Louisiana-inspired sauce or traditional. Pulled pork comes in a sun-dried tomato tortilla. How trendy is that?
 
 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:05 AM | | Comments (22)
Categories: Bar-B-Que, Top Ten Tuesdays
        

May 21, 2007

The Dreaded Crabcake Question

No, I'm not going to answer it today. But I thought you'd be interested in how others answer it.

Thanks to Andy Segall for pointing out this article on the subject, which appeared in the travel section of the St. Petersburgh Times this Sunday.

Ten crabcakes. Five days.

Clearly an amateur if that's all she can eat.

It's a fun story, with recipes, and the best part is the scornful comments by (I presume) real Marylanders at the end. After all, what do foreigners -- or should that be furriners? -- know about our local food?

crabcake

(Andre F. Chung: Sun Photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:40 PM | | Comments (3)
Categories: Crab Cakes
        

Why do I go where I go?

kahuna

(Kenneth K. Lam/Sun Photographer)

In his comment yesterday, Robert raised a very good question, about why I would review two Italian places with the Big Kahuna in between. 


Here's how my thinking went...

 My first priority is always new restaurants, even if they are all of the same type (that says something about trends in itself) and even if they are in the same area.

If I don't have a new restaurant to do immediately, I try to be diverse: geographically (which for some reason is always difficult when it comes to north of the city), type of cuisine, casual vs. formal.

I wanted to see what was happening to Paolo's after the one in Harborplace closed, and I wanted to get to the Big Kahuna because this time of year people are always interested in Inner Harbor places to eat, and it's the restaurant that replaced Paolo's. I had actually let Pazza Luna wait longer than I wanted to (it opened a few months ago), but  I had had a lot of new places to visit or places that had major changes or new ownership like Brightons.

It's not exactly scientific, but I hope I  get around to the restaurant you're interested in -- and sooner rather than later.

Suggestions welcome.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:31 AM | | Comments (1)
        

Minato's move

minato2

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun Photographer)

Minato, the Japanese restaurant in Mount Vernon, has completed its move from its basement dining room to new and beautiful quarters at 1013 N. Charles St. It's now open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week. The menu remains the same.

Thanks to Good Eater Steve for pointing out this out to me. Here's his report...

 It's very nice. The sushi bar area is very cool. unique ceiling with the lights. Very hip for baltimore.

I can't wait.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:11 AM | | Comments (0)
        

May 20, 2007

Review Preview

pazza%20luna

 (Kim Hairston/Sun Photographer)

Next week I’ll be reviewing the new Pazza Luna in the Sunday Modern Life section. It’s quite different from founding owner Kim Acton’s restaurant of the same name. But don’t expect it to be anything like co-owner Riccardo Bosio’s other restaurant, Sotto Sopra, either. 

If you’re planning to go before my review appears, be sure to order the fritto misto — fried calamari, shrimp and crescents of fennel — with a fresh basil aioli and a flight of whatever wine manager Mark Orsini has chosen that night.  (The night we were there it was pinot grigio.)

Have you eaten there? What did you think?


   

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:57 AM | | Comments (1)
        

May 19, 2007

Summer brunches

brunch

(Algerina Perna/Sun Photographer)

People often ask me for brunch recommendations, particularly this time of year. I'm going to have a suggestion whenever I can on Saturdays, so check back here next week. (But if I can't come up with a good one, I'll write about something else.)

Anyway, one I forget about is Abacrombie near the Meyerhoff. ...

Not all my recommendations are going to be as expensive as this one, but this time of year there are a lot of special occasions. This would be a place to celebrate a graduation, anniversary or wedding.

Chef Michael Putnam told me (over the phone, of course) that the most requested dish is the truffled grits, even though it's just a side. One signature dish is the eggs Benedict made with a twist, like smoked salmon instead of Canadian bacon.

The menu is a la carte, but there's also a chef's tasting menu for $29. As well as mimosas and bloody marys, of course.

Too bad there's not a beautiful little garden patio for this good food, but the rooms are pretty and light-filled -- even the basement dining room.

Brunch is served from noon to 4 p.m. on Sundays only, and reservations are a good idea.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:58 AM | | Comments (2)
Categories: Brunch
        

May 18, 2007

Freaky Friday

A copy editor at the Sun sent me an e-mail that basically said "ugh."

It was in response to an ingredient she had come across in a menu I had brought back from a restaurant I reviewed recently. The ingredient was "sweet parsley syrup."

Ugh.

I want to start a collection of weird ingredients and dishes to be found at local restaurants. It's hard to think of them off the top of my head, but the one that pops up immediately is the mac 'n' cheese with milk chocolate at Jack's Bistro in Canton. I'm not saying these ingredients and dishes aren't edible; they may very well be. They just can't sound edible.

If you can think of others, please post below. But it's more likely you'll notice something down the road you can't believe people actually order. In which case, just e-mail me.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:48 PM | | Comments (1)
        

11th great place to eat outdoors

Thanks to middlervmuncher for reminding me of the Oregon Grille's beautiful outdoor eating space. It should have been included in my list.  (The comment is under last Tuesday's Top Ten, but it was just posted today, so you might have missed it.)

I ate there last summer for the dining guide. Mark Henry's food is worth the trip anyway, and the terrace is such a nice place to enjoy it.

By the way, we're starting to think about themes for this year's dining guide. (Last year's was Hot Spots.) Suggestions welcome for what you might like to see covered; please post below.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:09 AM | | Comments (1)
Categories: Outdoor Dining
        

Your table is ready

If you eat out a lot, it's well worth your while to make your reservations through OpenTable.com. I don't use it in Baltimore because of my job (I'm a little paranoid that somehow the restaurant will know it's me), but I do when I eat in D.C., and it's always been very convenient. Here's how it works...

open%20talbe 

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun Photographer)

Right now there are 45 restaurants in Baltimore signed up, 17 in the burbs and 14 in Annapolis. You select the date and time you want the reservation for, and there's a space for special requests (that cozy table in the corner, for instance).

The reservation goes straight into the restaurant's computerized reservation book, and you get a confirmation e-mail.

If you're a registered user, you get 100 Dining Rewards points every time you use OpenTable.com -- and in some cases as many as 1,000. Once you get 2,000 points, you can redeem them for a $20 gift certificate that you can use at any OpenTable.com restaurant.

I haven't found a catch yet. The service is free, and I've had fewer screw ups with my reservations through OpenTable.com than I have when I've dealt with people taking my reservation over the phone.

If any of you has had a different experience, please let me know below. (Or if you've had a good experience.)

Interestingly, McCormick & Schmick's was the top-booked restaurant on OpenTable.com last week (in Baltimore). Maybe that's because tourists coming to Baltimore are booking their tables there from their home computers.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:21 AM | | Comments (4)
        

May 17, 2007

Summer Solstice

Has anyone eaten at the new Solstice in the Atlantic Hotel in Berlin, Md.? If so, please post a mini-review below.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:37 PM | | Comments (0)
        

What is a bistro?

timothy

(Amy Davis/Sun Photographer)

Good question. Here's the e-mail I got:

DEAR MS. LARGE:
    IN TODAY'S WORLD WHAT DOES THE TERM BISTRO MEAN?
    WOULD YOU SAY IT HAS THE SAME MEANING AS CAFE?
    HOW DOES IT DIFFER FROM A RESTAURANT OR TAVERN?
    AND SO ON & SO ON ...
THANKING YOU IN ADVANCE,
    JOHN BECK
    ELLICOTT CITY

In other words, what do Timothy Dean Bistro, b Bistro, P. F. Chang's China Bistro and Petit Louis Bistro have in common? ...

The answer is, not much. Petit Louis tried to duplicate a real French bistro when it first opened (it tries less and less as it matures into its own restaurant). The other three use the term loosely to suggest that they are hip, fun and you can come dressed casually.

A bistro isn't as serious, whatever that means, as a restaurant, although the food can be just as elaborate and costly. For sure, you won't get formal service.

I don't expect much more than a sandwich, salad or pastry in a cafe, and I don't expect a wine list.

As for a tavern, it's either "historical" as in the former King of France Tavern in Annapolis, in which case all bets are off, or it's down-home, casual and serving food to eat with a beer. 

Anybody have any other thoughts?

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:11 PM | | Comments (3)
        

Don't forget to vote!

 I got this e-mail from Stuart Merenbloom in response to my review of Paolo's last Sunday:

I was highly amused with the fact that you ordered a pizza with BB-Q sauce on it then complained about it…yeah I know you’re supposed to try new stuff to report on but come on, BB-Q sauce on a pizza is like putting mayo on a hot corned beef sandwich. ...

paolos

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun Photographer)

I tried to defend myself when I wrote back by saying it was the pizza du jour, but I know what he means.

Should I try something the restaurant seems to be proud of when I'm pretty sure it's a bad idea to begin with? (Of course, if I had never started trying new things I thought I wouldn't like, I'd still be living off peanut butter and jelly sandwiches on Wonder Bread with the crusts cut off.)

What do you think? Please vote below. Remember, you don't have to sign your name or give us your e-mail address if you don't want to. Here are the choices:

a) Yes

b) No

c) I like mayo on hot corned beef

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:51 AM | | Comments (9)
        

May 16, 2007

Eat don't run

Eating for a cure is certainly easier than Run for the Cure, and Riccardo Bosio's new Pazza Luna has 15 seats left for its wine dinner this Sunday night at 7 p.m. The six-course dinner costs $100 a person, $25 of which will go to breast cancer research. The restaurant is flying in Italian winemaker Sabatino DiProperzio for the event. Call 410-493-0196 for more information.

luna

(Kim Hairston/Sun Photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:37 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Oink

I got this e-mail from a reader recently:

I know that restaurant owners and chefs know that many portions are way too big these days. Don't they care that most people will eat everything on their plate and thus eat way too much. Don't they care that they are contributing to the obesity problems in this country. Don't they have a conscience?...

cheesecake

(Myung J. Chung/Los Angeles Times)

 

 

I can't presume to speak for restaurant owners, but from what I've read, consumers say they want smaller portions (see this article from QSRMagazine.com), but they also perceive big portions as good value -- even when they don't clean their plate -- and resent not getting it. Just look at the lines at the Cheesecake Factory, known for its heaping plates. If it ain't broke...

The other reasons I've heard are all economic. That is, food is relatively cheap, but if you give bigger portions you can charge a lot more. And whether restaurants offer small portions at a lesser price or bigger portions that they charge more for, their fixed costs are the same: the staff salaries, rent etc.

Finally, if I were a restaurant owner, I'd probably be defensive about the whole question and say, "What am I -- the food police?"

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:30 PM | | Comments (2)
        

Rhymes with "kill the cat"

No matter what you think about the populist Zagat Survey (and we can discuss this in depth one of these days), you have to love the outtakes from its Web site — comments from reviewers that were simply too outrageous to print. Here are some of the latest ones:

 

“The foam on our dessert looked like something the cat left on the rug.“
 “Best thing here were the toothpicks.”
 “Their pork chop would make a good chew toy.”
 “I’ve been in prisons with better service.”
 “Average age of patrons is ‘deceased.’”
 “Just enough service to avoid customer riots.”
 “Got the plate but couldn’t find the food.”
 “ Don’t ask for the doggie bag if you love your dog.”
 “The rodents wear aprons and bus tables on slow nights.”
 “Ignore the cat’s rump parked on the table you’re about to be served on.”
 “Two people at the bar but you could only count four teeth between them.”
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:39 AM | | Comments (0)
        

How a real journalist works...not

samos

(Doug Kapustin/Sun Photographer)

The item that didn't appear in today's Table Talk column in the Taste section is something I think is hot news ...

Fans of Samos, considered by many to be the top Greek restaurant in Baltimore, will be delighted to know that it's probably expanding into its second floor. I got the first hint of this from Jill Rosen, another Sun reporter who actually works for a living. (You call this work?)

She sent me this e-mail (thanks, Jill):

I got that from the zoning board agenda. They had applied for a permit to expand from first-floor only to second floor as well. I checked the address and it was Samos.

I wanted to check it out for myself, but Samos' phone remained busy for two solid days, no matter when I called. To remain anonymous, I can't check out restaurant news in person, so I called on my neighbor, native of Greece, and hairdresser extraordinaire Tom Mavrellos, who said the owner takes the phone off the hook when he gets busy, which as far as I can tell is always.

Tom promised to stop in to see what was going on. He reported back that "Nick" (owner and chef Nicholas Georgalas) doesn't want to talk about the expansion because it could be months before anything happens.

That's all I know. If you know more, please post below.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:00 AM | | Comments (1)
        

May 15, 2007

Where is my post?

I was surprised that no one had a thing to say about eating outdoors. Somehow I didn't think I'd mentioned every single restaurant with a patio in the greater Baltimore area.

It turns out that ...

there was a glitch in the system, and suddenly I got 10 comments at once.

If you posted one and it hasn't shown up, please post again or e-mail me. Thanks!

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:48 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Hog heaven

In honor of Memorial Day, next week's Top Ten Tuesday will be local places to get good barbecue.  This isn't my area of expertise, so I'll see if I can get Rob to do my work for me consult with my colleague Rob Kasper, who writes the Happy Eater column, before I make up my list.

Suggestions welcome! Please post below.

barbecue

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun Photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:47 PM | | Comments (4)
Categories: Bar-B-Que, Top Ten Tuesdays
        

Please Mr. Postman, Look and See...

Here are a couple of questions I've gotten recently that I thought were interesting. (Although sometimes I think almost anything but the Dreaded Crabcake Question interests me.) This was an e-mail from James Jacobson: 

Hi…Went to Dogwood Sat night. The food was unbelievably good!! Unfortunately they had no air conditioning (it was broken) and it was very uncomfortable in there. My question is this: When we spoke to them on Friday should they mention that the air conditioning is broken as a courtesy? Or is it acceptable to just let patrons come without telling them the A.C. is broken? Thnx...

dogwood

(Amy Davis/Sun Photographer)

There's no question in my mind about this. It's a no brainer. Restaurants must tell you (or not charge you for one entree). Too bad they don't realize that the business they might lose one night will be made up for by grateful diners who will come back later. And those who do decide to come won't feel resentful. Or am I missing something here?

Later, I got a voice mail from someone who left his phone number but not his name. His hip young niece and nephew are coming to town and he wanted a couple of suggestions on where to take them to lunch and dinner, price no object, that is "interesting, trendy and clean."

He mentioned Gertrude's.

Nothing against Gertrude's, but I'd think more along the lines of Salt near Patterson Park,  the Bicycle down in Federal Hill,  b in Bolton Hill, the Wine Market in Locust Point, or one of Power Plant Live's restaurants for the whole scene.

Anybody have any other suggestions?

And remember, it has to be clean.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:02 PM | | Comments (4)
        

Eating outdoors

It's Top Ten Tuesday again, and we're going through a spell of pretty good May weather -- just right for al fresco dining, as the high falutin' food magazines like to call it. I like eating on a beautiful terrace or well-landscaped patio so much that the setting is sometimes as important as the food in where I decide to eat this time of year.

Here are my current 10 favorites -- restaurants that have great outdoor seating -- in no particular order ...

tapas%20teatro

(Michelle Gienow/Special to the Sun)

My one caveat is that I haven't been back to them all yet this spring, so I'm basing some of this on what they were like last summer. Let me know if any of them has changed:

1) Babalu Grill's appealing patio-lounge in Power Plant Live. It's hidden away with plants and has comfortable furniture. A great place for drinks and as much of the restaurant's Cuban menu as they're serving outdoors this year.

2) The Metropolitan's wonderfully chic rooftop dining room in Annapolis. The owner told me the fact that they couldn't duplicate it here was the main reason they weren't opening another Metropolitan in Baltimore. (Its sister restaurants, Lemongrass and Tsunami, are both coming in late summer.)

3) The terrace at Donna's in Cross Keys. It has lovely landscaping (and even herbs and miniature vegetables in among the flowers when summer rolls around), but the real draw is that it's set back from Falls Road so you're away from the traffic, and it's surrounded by lots of big trees and other greenery.

4) On the other hand, I love being right on Charles Street at one of Tapas Teatro's tiny tables, rubbing elbows with the people next to me, feeling like I'm part of the action, drinking sangria and eating small plates of good things.

5) The pretty courtyard patio in the middle of Green Spring Station. I'm not even sure what restaurant will be there now that Longo's is closed, perhaps for good, perhaps not; but I hear that people are taking carry out from Stone Mill Bakery and eating it at these tables.

6) I said I wasn't going to do any restaurants in the Inner Harbor, because you already know about them. But I bet you haven't considered the Peacock Cafe in the Pier 5 Hotel. The hotel has a small, charming wooden deck for its upscale casual dining room. It's right on the water.

7) The courtyard in back of Arcos, the Mexican restaurant in upper Fells Point. It's a series of spaces created with old bricks and recycled wood. Some of the tables are copper-topped, some vintage wood, some marble. I hope they get rid of the tiki hut this summer, but otherwise it's great.

8) I haven't actually eaten outside at b in Bolton Hill. But we had a very good meal there recently before it was warm enough to sit outside, and I love the fairly quiet street lined with enormous trees the bistro is on. It's on my list to try soon.

9) Gertrude's in the BMA has a terrace overlooking the museum's sculpture garden. It's set so far away from the street you get almost no traffic noise, plus greenery, a fountain, and of course, art with your Eastern Shore cuisine. Life doesn't get any better than this.

10) The Ambassador's patio overlooking the apartment house's flower garden. If you don't want to be in the sun, they open up the sunporch so it's almost like being outdoors. The space will be even nicer later in the summer, but this is a lovely, flowery space to eat good Indian food. 

I have a couple of Honorable Mentions, the Wine Market and Brasserie Tatin, but last year I didn't think they did enough with the spaces they have. Both have promise.

I haven't seen or eaten at the Grove at Vin in Towson. But it's supposed to be very good looking, and the restaurant's full menu is now being served on the patio, which even has its own bar.

Comments? Suggestions? Please post below. Remember, you don't have to give us your e-mail address or full name if you don't want to.

 I haven't decided on next week's top ten yet, so check back later in the day for an update. Even better, let me know what you'd like for next week's Top Ten Tuesday.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:32 AM | | Comments (26)
Categories: Outdoor Dining, Top Ten Tuesdays
        

May 14, 2007

Dive right in

Coastal Living magazine has given a shout out to a Baltimore restaurant in an article in its most recent issue.

The bad news is that the article is called "Our Favorite Seafood Dives."

Funny how the national media never write about Baltimore's fine seafood restaurants. (Yes, we do have them. See my previous Top Ten Tuesday post on the subject.) Anyway...

wharf%20rat 

(Algerina Perna/ Sun photographer)

we'll take all the appreciation of our city we can get.

Here's what the magazine had to say about the Wharf Rat:

The Wharf Rat
Baltimore, Maryland

With great fish-and-chips, excellent craft beers, nautical decor, and an air of elegance gone to seed, this cozy place in Baltimore’s funky Fells Point neighborhood has it all. House specialty Oliver Ales come from the microbrewery at its slightly fancier sister location downtown, near the baseball stadium. 801 South Ann Street; 410/276-9034 or
thewharfrat.com

You'll find the other 24 "dives" on the magazine's Web site, including Fenwick Crab House Restaurant on Fenwick Island!

For the Coastal Living Web site's expanded list of casual seafood restaurants in Maryland, click here.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:14 PM | | Comments (0)
        

It's Top Ten Tuesday Eve

patio

(Kim Hairston/ Sun Photographer)

Tomorrow's Top Ten list will be favorite places to eat outdoors. Suggestions are welcome, because sometimes even a good one will slip my mind. (And if you don't agree with my list tomorrow, please let me know where you'd go instead.) By the way, feel free to post even if you want to remain anonymous. You don't have to include your e-mail address or name if you don't want to.

I probably won't include Inner Harbor restaurants just because they're too obvious. Who doesn't like to eat on the water? But maybe I will include one that I bet you haven't thought of. I'll have to see if I have 10 other great ones or not.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:31 AM | | Comments (0)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

My Mother's Day brunch

There was a time  when I actually cooked for pleasure, but not so much anymore. 

Yesterday, though, I did enjoy cooking brunch for my mother-in-law and a couple of friends in honor of Mother's Day because I had the time to create something nice ...

Not something elaborate, or difficult, but nice.

For me, that usually means turning to Julia -- in this case, her recipe for ramequin forestiere, a cross between a quiche and a souffle with a mushroom filling. It can be prepared ahead and baked at the last minute.

The Waverly farmers market made the rest of the meal easy. Gardener's Gourmet has beautiful mixed greens this time of year, and the folks there throw in a few bright pansies for good measure. (Yes, they're edible.) A simple dressing of lemon and olive oil was all the salad needed.

I got a baguette from Uptown Bakery and North Carolina strawberries from one of the stands, which went with diced fresh mango and mango sherbet from Eddie's. (Once upon a time I would have made the sherbet.)

We drank a golden Terre di Tufi from Tuscany that one of my friends brought, and we started with mimosas.

That's probably as much cooking as I'll do all week.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:36 AM | | Comments (3)
Categories: Brunch
        

Baltimore's newest hot spot?...or not

I got this e-mail from a reader who didn't want his name posted. It's another late-night insight. (Remember, I can't give you news about stuff that happens past my bedtime.) I like the surprise ending.

So, on Friday night, my wife and I and a couple of our early 30-something friends went to see the band Cake at the Pier Six Pavilion....we don't get over to Inner Harbor East that often, but since we were right there, we decided to grab a late night snack before we called it a night and our friends all headed back home....

jamesjoyce

(Amy Davis/ Sun photographer)

We arrived at James Joyce at 10:45, and since we've all been to James Joyce many times (that and it looked like people were hanging out the windows it was so crowded) we went on an expedition for a snack...

Oceanaire...raw bar closed and we were not openly encouraged to grab a table.  Lebanese Taverna...not taking any more tables.  Taco Fiesta...the kitchen was closed and we waited to grab a beer/margarita but after almost a 5 minute wait decided to leave.  The sushi place next to Taco Fiesta...lights off, doors locked.  Whole Foods (we were starting to get desperate and hungry)...closed by this time.

It's nearing 11:15 now and we could have walked to Pazo, but when I called they said that it would be at least 30-45 minutes before we could sit and order something.

Why am I telling you all this?  If Inner Harbor East is going to be the new "hot spot" among our generation...they may want to keep a late night menu or at least keep seating people until 11:30 or so, especially when there are 2,500 people less than a half mile away who may be hungry!

P.S.  We ended up in Little Italy being warmly greeted and even though the kitchen at the unnamed establishment was shutting down for the evening, they'd whip us up whatever we wanted.  It was no problem at all!  We'll be heading back into Little Italy when we're in that area again and have a late night craving!

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:58 AM | | Comments (1)
        

May 13, 2007

Review preview

Because I'm grateful to you faithful weekend readers, I'm going to preview next Sunday's restaurant review, which will appear in the Modern Life lifestyle section on May 20. You read it here first ...

I'm not going to give too much away, but I will say I checked out the Big Kahuna Cantina, the restaurant that occupies the space in Harborplace's Light Street Pavilion where Paolo's used to be. I usually leave the more casual places to our LIVE restaurant critic, Karen Nitkin, but I always try to cover the Harborplace restaurants because of the greater interest in them.

If you have a hip surfer Mom, take her there this afternoon, sit at one of the outdoor tables overlooking the Inner Harbor and have a margarita (not the sangria, which tastes like fruit syrup) and the guacamole made fresh at your table. Totally, dude.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:45 AM | | Comments (3)
Categories: Review Preview
        

May 12, 2007

Wine weirdness

 Anyone have any reaction pro or con to this interesting e-mail I got?

Dear Ms. Large,

While dining at Petit Louis last night, we had what we thought was a bizarre wine incident After the waiter opened our bottle, he poured about an ounce into a glass for himself and sniffed it before pouring more into my husband's glass for him to taste.
The waiter then took his own glass, with the wine still in it, away....

wine

(Glenn Fawcett/ Sun Photographer)

My husband asked why this was being done, and the waiter replied that this was to check that the wine was not corked. He said that his having stuck his nose into the glass rendered it objectionable, and went on to say that a taste of corked wine would ruin our palates for the entire meal (which we thought was nonsense).

We have never encountered this procedure anywhere else, and actually never before at Petit Louis. We objected that our wine was being taken and wondered if they took us for rubes. Shouldn't we be the ones to decide whether the wine is corked? And what happens to that wine?

Do you know anything about this?

Sincerely,
Anne Stumpf

The only place I've encountered this is at Charleston, and I guess owner Tony Foreman decided they ought to start the same procedure at Petit Louis.  I might have found it as objectionable as you did if I hadn't had my first bottle of corked wine last year. After that experience, I'm happy for someone else to test it for me -- in the same way I want someone else to taste to see if the milk is sour before I even smell it! But that's just me. Now that you know this is Petit Louis' policy, I'm sure you'll tell them you want to handle your own tasting.

Elizabeth

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:23 AM | | Comments (8)
Categories: Wine and Spirits
        

May 11, 2007

Latest on Longo's

OK, no real surprise here, I guess. A friend of my husband's went to lunch at Longo's in Green Spring Station Wednesday (he and his companions had a reservation), and it was shut tight. There was a sign on the door saying ...

something to the effect of No Trespassing.

A locksmith was in the process of changing the locks.

I called the restaurant. The phone rang and rang, and it never switched over to voice mail.

So I guess it might not be reopening next week after all.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:13 AM | | Comments (1)
        

Mother love

gertrudes

(Andre F. Chung/ Sun Photographer)

I thought I would help out you procrastinators by finding some wonderful spot to take Mom on Sunday that's still taking reservations ...

The first place that came to mind was Gertrude's in the BMA because I love eating on the terrace and looking at the sculpture garden, and I bet any Mom would, too. But when I called, the message said they were all booked for Sunday brunch and almost completely booked for dinner. Here's an alternative: Gertrude's is serving brunch this Saturday as well. Tell Mom you thoughtfully made the reservation the day before weeks ago to avoid the crowds.

For a less obvious option, I decided on Regi's in Federal Hill. That's because my friend and colleague Sam Sessa, otherwise known as Carry Out Sam, told me he had had a great breakfast there last Sunday, with a really good omelet and homemade muffins. I trust his judgment, so I called Regi's. The bad news is that they are only taking reservations on Mother's Day now for 9 a.m. or after 2 p.m. The good news is that you can tell Mom you thoughtfully reserved 9 a.m. to avoid the crowds.

Other suggestions welcome. Please post below.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:26 AM | | Comments (3)
        

May 10, 2007

Six feet under

tio pepe

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun Photographer)

Someone suggested I do a Top Ten basement restaurants, which sounded good until I realized I couldn't name 10 basement restaurants, let alone 10 favorites. Tio Pepe and Abacrombie would be at the top of the list, of course ...


There's Akbar on Charles Street and True in the Admiral Fell Inn. And Minato, but it's moving next week. (I just called to check.)

If I could do past restaurants, I would include Savannah, Cindy Wolf's restaurant before Charleston, La Tesso Tana near the Meyerhoff, and Bombay Grill, the original one in the basement on Madison.

There must be more, but I can't think of them. I need two more to get to 10. Any suggestions?

You would think a basement location would be a kiss of death for a restaurant, but actually some of these have made it an asset. I can't think of a place that's more festive than Tio Pepe on a Saturday night.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:28 PM | | Comments (3)
        

What makes a good Dining Experience?

If I'm not careful, my friend and frequent dinner companion Good Eater Ed will take over my blog. He's sent me a long list of questions/concerns he wants me to address, all of which intrigue me...

Here is his take on The Restaurant Experience. Do you agree with him? Any other suggestions? And please don't say "good food":

"What makes a good dining experience? I propose four simple checkpoints.

The first is that one is greeted promptly at the door and either seated or given a plausible explanation for the delay and offered a comfortable space to wait.

The second is that the server immediately acknowledge my presence, even if it is only to say hello.

The third is that the server repeat the specials in a clear voice and indicate the price of each of the specials. Otherwise, I might want to ask the price of special, which might make me look preoccupied with the cost of a meal and make my fellow diners uncomfortable.

The fourth is that a decent interval pass between placing my order and being served my food. It is important for me to have the illusion that the food is actually being cooked for me, rather than hastily placed in a microwave or quickly scooped off a steam table. There is nothing worse than to order some exotic dish, only to have it arrive half frozen because it has not been properly microwaved. If I wanted to eat pre-prepared food that is warmed in a microwave, I could as well eat at home."

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:22 AM | | Comments (1)
        

May 9, 2007

I'll have a stroke with that Orange Beef

Writing next Wednesday's Make Over My Meal took me to the nonprofit Center for Science in the Public Interest's Web site and an update on Chinese restaurant food published last month ...

chinese

You know the Americanized version of Chinese cuisine isn't always healthy, but you may not know how bad it really is.

A serving of Lemon Chicken, says CSPI, is the equivalent of three fried McChicken sandwiches plus a 32-oz. Coke at McDonald’s.

Careful eaters may know to stay away from the fried dishes and focus on those with lots of vegetables, but I think even you will be surprised at how much sodium you're getting -- sometimes as much as two days' worth in one meal. One result of our protesting the use of MSG, my nutrition guru Robin Spence tells me, is that restaurants compensate by using more sodium.

Also take a look at the article about the 1993 study, which is helpfully set up with suggestions on How to Make It Better. (Except for the hot and sour soup. Here's what it says: How to Make It Better: You can't.)

And who knew Mou Shu Pork contained an average of two eggs per serving?

But give Chinese restaurants some credit. These days even hole-in-the-wall carryouts offer steamed chicken and vegetables with sauces on the side and brown rice. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:26 PM | | Comments (2)
        

Check those receipts

When someone I know (in another city) was working as an assistant, she noticed an odd thing when she did her boss's expenses each week ...

Waiters sometimes added a few dollars to the tip her boss had written in on the credit card slip.

When you think about it, the system is easy to abuse. The servers are the ones who type in their tip to the credit card company after you've signed off on it. Her boss let the discrepancies slide; the amounts were small enough that he didn't want to bother about them.

Before she told me about this, I didn't always check my statement against the receipts as carefully as I should have. Now I do. I don't know whether servers are more  honest in Baltimore (I like to think so) or they just haven't thought of this particular scam yet; but so far it hasn't happened to me. Still, it doesn't hurt to keep checking.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:00 AM | | Comments (0)
        

May 8, 2007

No kid zone

Bill has a suggestion for all those who want a grownups night out.

It's kind of mean, but I like it. ... What do you think?

Obviously patrons and workers have complained enough to get smoking banned at all city establishments, but the question is what will be attacked next? (Personally, I do not agree with the smoking ban, but that is another topic) I think establishments that offer smoking and non-smoking sections should keep their partitions and just change their signs to offer children and non-children sections. When entering a restaurant I always make it a point to ask the host or hostess if they have a non-children section. It gives me some amount of pleasure to see the dumbfounded looks on their faces, but it at least guarantees that they will not seat me anywhere in the vicinity of children. It's a dirty little trick, but it hasn't failed yet.
Bill
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:27 PM | | Comments (4)
        

Dieters, please don't read this

Thanks to Michael for pointing out that Ale Mary's has bread pudding made out of Krispy Kreme doughnuts. For the record ... I think it ought to be illegal.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:46 PM | | Comments (1)
        

Top Ten Tuesday

I'm limiting myself here to desserts I've had at restaurants that are still open, so no oeufs a la neige with spun caramel from the now-closed Jeannier's. Here are my current favorite restaurant desserts in no particular order; and take note, there's not one creme brulee or death by chocolate cake on the list ...

1) The multi-layer cake of mousses and chocolate with a fragile creme anglaise at Brasserie Tatin in Roland Park.

2) The individual chocolate souffle, ordered in advance, at Cynthia's in Severna Park.

3) The pear clafouti served warm with cinnamon ice cream, also at Cynthia's. What do you expect when a restaurant is named after its pastry chef? (Thanks to Ken for reminding me of her.)

4) The cardamom ice cream with figs and mango at Tapas Teatro in the Station North Arts and Entertainment District.

5) The frozen passion fruit mousse with warm chocolate sauce at Charleston downtown.

6) The baklava at Micho's in Reisterstown,  incredibly fresh, sticky sweet and utterly delicious.

7) The apple tart in phyllo with creme anglaise at Bicycle in Federal Hill (and don't plan to share).

8) The mango and sticky rice at Lemongrass in Annapolis. Not to worry if you don't want to go that far for dessert. A Lemongrass branch is opening downtown this summer.

9) The pie made with fresh key limes at the Oregon Grille in Hunt Valley.

10) The trio of tiny desserts at the Iron Bridge Wine Company in Columbia.

As I'm making up this list I'm saying to myself, "Wait a minute. I've had some great bread puddings. There's no bread pudding on this list." I just can't remember where. Any nominations for great bread puddings in the Baltimore/Annapolis area?

Also, many of these restaurants change their menus frequently, so don't blame me if one of my favorites isn't available when you go there. (But do ask for it. Maybe they'll bring it back.)

Next Top Ten Tuesday: Best places to eat outdoors.

Suggestions are welcome. Please post below. And if any restaurants have opened a new patio, sidewalk seating or whatever, I'd like to hear from them.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:15 AM | | Comments (17)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

May 7, 2007

No, Longo's isn't closed for good

Nancy Longo's new restaurant is dark on a Saturday night. The note on the door says Longo's is closed for repairs. An application for a liquor license transfer is posted.

These are all the classic signs of a restaurant that's gone for good, but...

longo's 

(Kim Hairston/Sun Photographer)

owner Nancy Longo assures me this is not the case.

"The restaurant is still in existence, and it will continue to be in existence," she told me over the phone. Apparently she's in the process of taking the whole restaurant over from her business partner, Andrew Silverman. (Hence the liquor license transfer; she will now own the license.)

That meant the county health department had to inspect the place again, and they found a plumbing problem which involves ripping up the floor. It has to be fixed before the restaurant can be reopened.

Longo hopes to be back in business in a week or so.

 Thanks to Darlene Townsend for letting me know that Longo's is presently closed. She had a reservation Saturday night and found the restaurant dark when she and her companions got there. Longo says the staff tried to get back to as many customers as possible, but because of the short notice they didn't get to everyone.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:05 PM | | Comments (1)
        

For you night owls

Good Eater Marty Katz, the Baltimore editor for Zagat, sent me the following e-mail this morning. I'm passing it along because the last time I was up at 12:30 a.m. was ... actually I don't think I've ever been up at 12:30 a.m. So if you're going to get restaurant news after midnight, it isn't going to be from me ...

He wrote:

I was in Fells Point at bar closing time Friday night and the newish Mehek Indian place on Broadway had two somewhat formally clad servers selling four $5 dishes to the drunken revelers from a sidewalk stand.

I asked for more details and he wrote back:

Mehek is sort of nicely out of place anyway -- white tablecloths, soothing light atmosphere inside for conversation ... more civilized, in an Ambassador DR sort of way -- except bright -- and somewhat the opposite of neighbors Bertha's or Jimmy's. And they have sidewalk tables, which is brave in the face of the permanent residents of the square. I was shocked at 12:30 a.m. to see two white-dress-shirted servers manning a set of chafing dishes and offering passersby from the starting-to-close bars a chance to have grown-up food. If you've ever seen the pit-beef operation on Cross Street after midnight outside 8x10 -- it was the inverse.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:43 AM | | Comments (0)
        

May 6, 2007

So bad it's good

Robin Spence, the registered dietitian I work with on our Make Over My Meal series, tells me we should never use the words "bad" or "good" to describe someone's diet. Well, here's a dish that's so bad it's good...

We were at Wegmans Friday doing a makeover for someone having lunch from the Wokery, the store's Asian hot food bar. I may not have the room to describe one dish in the story itself, which will appear in the May 16 Taste section, but there's something on the bar called creamy shrimp.

The shrimp are fried, and get this: The sauce is made with mayonnaise, sweetened condensed milk, and what Wegmans' Chef Dave described as "a lot of sugar." And you thought Chinese food wasn't good for you. (I refused to let it pass my lips once I heard what was in it -- it creeped me out -- but Robin, who is braver than me, had a bite and seemed to think it was pretty tasty.)

Usually the makeovers involve going to people's homes, but the one time we focused on a restaurant meal I didn't do it (to stay anonymous as the restaurant critic). My editor, Kate Shatzkin, got to go to Linwood's and write up her experience instead of me, although most readers don't look at bylines and probably thought it was me.

Kate gets dinner at Linwood's. I get the hot food bar at a supermarket.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:35 AM | | Comments (1)
        

May 5, 2007

Hair today

I just had an odd experience.

I decided to treat myself to a nice ladies luncheon today, so I went to an expensive little cafe, which shall remain nameless (you'll see why in a minute)...

I ordered myself a curried chicken salad sandwich on sourdough at the counter and found a seat at the last remaining table on the patio.

When the sandwich finally came, it had a long dark hair on one side. (Not mine.) I got up to take the sandwich back inside -- the waitress had scurried away -- took four steps and realized I was so hungry I didn't want to wait. I would just discard the hair and eat the sandwich.

Of course, when I opened it to put some back of the curried chicken salad that had fallen out, there was another black hair curling among the chicken and grapes. I have a pretty strong stomach, but that did it for me. I took the sandwich inside.

The guy behind the counter couldn't have been nicer. But there was no more sourdough. (I went for the rustic white second time round.)

The waitress brought the new sandwich quickly, and a shortbread cookie as well, which I thought was nice but a little chintzy considering the original sandwich cost me $10.95.

I checked -- no hair -- and I was eating away when the two women at the table next to me started talking about an awful friend of theirs.

When she went to restaurants, one of them said, "She's as picky as Elizabeth Large."

I wanted to stand up and say, "Wait a minute, they pay me to be picky" or "Picky? What do you mean picky? I almost ate the sandwich in spite of the first hair." But I didn't.

I only managed half my sandwich when a young woman came out and asked how the second sandwich was.

"Hairless."

OK, not very gracious of me. But she smiled and presented me with a gift certificate for $15 (no, she didn't know who I was) and a very gracious apology.

I'm always impressed when restaurants try to make up for their mistakes rather than get belligerent or defensive (although I also know some customers take advantage). It's amazing the goodwill it produces. If she hadn't been so nice I'd probably be writing this entry and naming the place.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:37 PM | | Comments (3)
        

Ras Doobie fan?

The Sun Web gods tell me no one reads newspaper blogs on the weekend. So you guys have been wasting enough time at work. But for those four loyal readers who have stuck with me this Saturday, I have a bit of news ...

Ras Doobie, the popular Jamaican restaurant, has closed and is becoming Penn Street Catering as of May 10, at least according to the guy who answered the phone when I called. (He said he was doing the renovating.)

Thanks to Marty Katz, the Baltimore editor of Zagat, for the heads up.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:03 AM | | Comments (2)
        

May 4, 2007

Star bright, star right?

A couple of weeks ago I got a well-argued e-mail from Michael Chmur complaining about my generosity toward restaurants he then didn't have good experiences at. As he put it,

My question is, if I can’t trust the professional food critic, who can I trust?...

 

 

Well, not up to tackling that question right now, but Michael also focused on the star question, saying this:

I’ve also noticed that Karen Nitkin is very generous with stars as well.  How Gourmet Again’s little café gets 3 stars is beyond me.  We went to Try’s Asian Fusion and it was a good Chinese restaurant, not a 3 star establishment. 

Karen, The Sun's cheap eats reviewer in LIVE, weighed in on the star question with this:

I see his point. I’ve often thought the star system could use some work. To me, atmosphere and service can be redundant, and service often depends on the how busy the restaurant is that minute. Also, I might get perfect service at a snack bar, but that’s not the same as perfect service in a fancy restaurant. If the snack bar service was without flaw, I’d give it a high rating, but it doesn’t indicate the level of service sophistication.

I’ll sometimes give a bar with a fun atmosphere three stars, but I can understand that some readers want to know if a restaurant is formal vs. casual. Even the food star system is flawed. A place with fabulous cheese steaks will get a high rating, but a much more inventive restaurant might get a lower one because the food is not as yummy.

If I had my way, I’d change the stars to: deliciousness of food, inventiveness of food, fanciness of setting, and attention to customers. For example, Gourmet Again was delicious, but very casual. So if it got three stars for deliciousness, one for inventiveness, one for fanciness and two for attention to customers, readers might get a clearer picture of what to expect.  Dogwood, for example, might get more stars for inventiveness than deliciousness. The star system now is set up as a system of insult vs. compliment. Maybe there’s a way to make it more descriptive.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:47 AM | | Comments (2)
        

May 3, 2007

Desserts, not complaints

Here it is Thursday already and I haven't gotten any suggestions for next week's Top Ten Tuesday, which will be favorite desserts. I'm thinking, for instance, of Marconi's hot fudge sundae, where they bring you a bowl of hot fudge and a ladle.

 No, wait... 

Maison Marconi is gone.

These have to be desserts available at currently open restaurants.

I think we need to move on from pet peeves now, guys.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:37 PM | | Comments (4)
        

Be peeved here now

People are still posting comments under previous blog entries on pet peeves when dining out, and they're all good. So if the subject interests you, and you haven't been keeping up, you might want to go back and see what's been added.

If you have more peeves, please post below so readers won't miss the newest ones.

Oddly, the one I expected to see most hasn't turned up yet: Restaurants that deliberately want to be noisy so they'll be considered high energy and fun. I guess we've all gotten used to it.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:50 PM | | Comments (8)
Categories: Pet Peeves
        

The problem with stars

Critics have a love/hate relationship with rating stars, those little symbols that say in four keystrokes or less what they've spent 800 carefully crafted words on. And then readers get angry with us because ...

our paragraphs don't quite jibe with the rating. We critics see it as a simplistic system. In The Sun's ratings, at least for restaurants, one star is "poor," two is "fair or uneven," three is "good" and four is "excellent."

I happen to be the one who decided their meanings, with a little help from my editor, back when we first started using stars. I have no one else to blame when I think to myself, How can two restaurants get the same number of stars for food (two) when one is uniformly mediocre and the other has some really great dishes and some really bad ones?

And then what does "excellent" mean? I eat a lot of excellent meals -- OK, some excellent meals  -- but shouldn't four stars be reserved for "fabulous"?

Once, I'm embarrassed to admit, I said in a review of the Oregon Grille that "the service couldn't be better" and then assigned the service three-and-a-half stars. A reader was quick to point out the contradiction.

On the other hand, more than once I've been glad for the shorthand. I don't have a lot of space for my reviews, so if there's nothing interesting to say about the service, if the waitress hasn't spilled soup in my lap, then  I'm just as glad to assign the stars and be done with it.

Please let me know below whether you prefer reviews with stars. I know they can be misleading, but they are a good quick guide. 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:45 AM | | Comments (2)
        

May 2, 2007

Only 35 miles north

John L. wants to know where to take his wife out to an anniversary dinner in Havre de Grace. I don't get up there as much as I would like, but I've heard good things about the oddly named...

Restaurant at Bulle Rock. Yes, it's a fine dining restaurant even though it's on a golf course. (Actually, this makes sense to me, because isn't golf the most expensive individual sport in the universe? If you can afford to play,  you can afford to have a high-end meal.)

I've only had lunch at the Laurrapin Grille, but it's been extensively renovated and the chef trained at Harbor Court. The dinner menu looks good, sort of Mediterranean meets Maryland.

 If anyone has other suggestions, please post below.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:03 PM | | Comments (3)
        

Site seeing

If you're a foodie, and you don't know about Baltimore chowhounds yet. you just aren't wasting enough time at work ...

Chowhound.com is a message board organized by region for, as its slogan goes "those who live to eat." The Baltimore/DC page is particularly good for information on places that aren't the big restaurants, which get lots of publicity anyway.

 People ask questions or express opinions and then others post in response. Recent topics included "baltimore special lunch" posted by foster and "Red Square in Baltimore" by sweetpotater. (The first has gotten four responses and the second five so far.)

Chowhound.com is also good if you're going to an area you don't know about and don't want to eat just at places listed in Zagat.

My biggest beef with it, not surprisingly, is that I think enough is going on in the Baltimore/Annapolis area restaurant-wise that we deserve a board all to ourselves, apart from DC.

I haven't found any other negatives about it. Have you?

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:05 AM | | Comments (1)
        

Even more peeves

 Baruke Griffiin is peeved with some of my pet peeves:

I was troubled by you and your friend’s article. Some of the grievances I could relate to however I think it’s a bit pompous to imply that a servers tongue piercing is offensive. How old are you?  What next then? 

Camera flashes!! I almost busted a gut laughing. Would you send a pet peeve letter to God for allowing a storm during meal time? 

 

Good ones from Bob Hayes in Columbia:

How about when you're seated next to the kitchen or bath rooms when your party is about the only ones in the restaurant, simply to fill the room according to the servers' areas?  Or, the infamous "bringing the entrée while you're still working on the appetizer's"?

 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:00 AM | | Comments (3)
Categories: Pet Peeves
        

May 1, 2007

Still more peeves

What? No unruly children!?!
Screaming, drumming with the silverware, even throwing the silverware, running around the tables, standing on chairs, throwing food and then stomping food on the floor.
How would you react if ...

a child walked up to you, putting their hands on the table, and asked "What are YOU eating?" And the parents think it's cute. Oh look, "He's learning to control his environment" or "He's just a child."

At more than one restaurant and on more than one occasion that I have personally experienced, as that family leaves, the whole restaurant rises and applauds. So it's not just me. And from what I hear, the parents leave little or no tip.
Barbara in Ellicott City

 I forgot to credit Robert with this one earlier:

The flip side to the waiter who clears plates before everyone is done is the waiter who brings out other courses without clearing plates.  There is nothing like eating your dessert while you stare at the remains of your steak or ribs.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:10 PM | | Comments (1)
Categories: Pet Peeves
        

Still peeved

Here are more excellent peeves from readers. Thanks to Catherine for this one:

My pet peeve is when the waiter assumes that just because you don't order a dessert and your dining partner does that you really want one but are denying yourself (do I look like I am on a diet?, no, I just don't like chocolate) so... they patronizingly announce that they will bring two forks and sweep away....or just bring two forks and go "wink, wink..." grrrr. Or how about this, when it's two women dining alone and when the dessert menu is brought, the waiter asks if you two would like to share a dessert!!!  No, we each want our own and we don't want to share) 

I like these a lot from Randy, who posted them last week:
Easily, my absolute pet peeve is the waiter or waitress who starts sweeping plates off the table while one or more are still eating.  Just what is their problem?  I resent the pressure it puts on those still eating to hurry up.  At Cibo's, in Owings Mills just last week, I went to share some of my entree w/ another guest, only to find that his dinner plate had been removed.   If I had to name another peeve, it would be the almost universal use of 'you guys' by servepersons.  I could tolerate it at many casual places; somehow, it seems out of place when in a fairly decent place, dining with, say, one's 87 year old mother.  Sigh.
Loved this one from Romaina:
My pet peeve is cigarette-smoking in restaurants. I was at a Hampden restaurant on Wednesday night and at about 8:50 p.m. nearly all the customers around the bar -- in unison, it seemed, whipped out cigarettes and lit them up. The bar is not separate from the dining room. The thing is, the restaurant's policy is that smoking is not allowed before 9 p.m. Those patrons must have been starved for a cigarette. Fortunately, I was waiting for the check and didn't have to endure the smoke for too long. I suppse the restaurant workers didn't want to upset the smokers by asking them to wait till 9 to light up.
Can't argue with Mather:
A friend/colleague of mine and I meet for lunch every once and a while and we have had a string of bad service at a number of popular downtown restaurants ranging from national chains to popular hot-spots.  Admittedly, the most obvious occurrences have been when we were sitting outside since the nice weather has rolled in.  It has lead us to wonder why the managers don't look at the forcast for the week and staff accordingly!  (We used to when I worked at an indoor/outdoor place in DC during college). 
The infractions aren't just minor ones, but mistakes such as serving the wrong meal, waiting 15 minutes before being greeted/placing the drink order, and having to wait 15 minutes after asking for the check and another 10 to run the card.  While a slow paced meal may be nice for dinner, it is unacceptable for a business lunch!  Managers: take the time to train your staff properly- it will pay off in return business!
And these from Kate:
1. Lukewarm coffee, tea, or soup (when it should be hot)
2.  An unswept floor
3.  A disappearing waiter, who magically reappears when it's time to be paid
4.  A waiter who scoffs when you order soup and salad instead of an expensive entree
5.  Drafts from an open front door
6.  Overpriced desserts

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:46 PM | | Comments (2)
Categories: Pet Peeves
        

Thoughts on peeves from DC

I got this e-mail today from Scott Phillips, who brings up some interesting points:

The last time I went to dinner at Bicycle, there was a sign posted that requested no cell phone use ...

I thought the food was creative and yet it worked and was very good. It was one of the more impressive meals I've had in the past year. I also really liked Samos a great deal but I'm looking for something different for my next trip.
 
I live in DC but I'm from Baltimore and have many friends and families in Baltimore. It is commonplace to ban cell phones from upscale restaurants in the DC area.  When I say upscale, I don't mean restaurants that pretend to be upscale but are merely overpriced but hip restaurants. We all know these restaurants (think Phillips 15 years ago before it stopped trying at all).
 
I will say this. Baltimore has much better Greek, Eastern European and Italian food than DC.  DC has much better tapas, Middle Eastern, and Latin American food.  
 
I liked your remarks/peeves about restaurants. I'm curious.  Is it appropriate to remove someone's plate after they've finished eating but while others are still working on their food? This happens routinely and someone once told me that the staff is supposed to wait. 

Me: The reason the staff is supposed to wait, it seems to me, is that it makes the other guests feel rushed if someone's plate is removed. And it draws attention to the fact that one person at the table ate more quickly than the others.
 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:22 PM | | Comments (3)
Categories: Pet Peeves
        

California pizza kitchen

OK, Pizzeria Mozza was everything it promised to be. There was even an Important Celebrity Sighting. ...

It's charming -- Mediterranean and rustic -- it's the hottest ticket in L.A., but as my daughter said, it's basically just a pizza joint.

But what pizza. Hot out of the brick oven, it comes with a fabulous crust, puffy, thin and crisp. Toppings like my fennel sausage, cream and thinly sliced red onion are to die for. And prices aren't bad. (Mine was $14.)

Unlike a normal pizza joint, there are practically two wait staff for every table, so the service is good in spite of the crowds.

The food isn't perfect. A beautiful salad made with red Belgian endive and mixed greens had too much lemony dressing. And the fact that there was a dessert with an Oreo crust in such a meticulously authentic Mediterranean restaurant, even though we didn't order it, was a downer.

But all in all, well worth it.

Celebrity sighting: director Robert Rodriguez, of Grindhouse fame (and Spy Kids). Are you telling me he can't get a table later than 5 p.m. on a Monday? Take a look at his photo and you'll see why I recognized him. He was wearing his bandana in the restaurant.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:54 AM | | Comments (0)
        

So many pet peeves, so few numbers

It’s Top Ten Tuesday again, and 10 numbers just might not be enough to cover all the petty and not-so-petty things that irritate me when I eat out – and that irritate the people who have posted or e-mailed me. So let’s get started ...
1) Oversalted food. This is a no-brainer, as far as I’m concerned. I can understand a chef wanting the dish to taste wonderful without the diner having to do anything to it, but you can’t correct too much salt at the table.

2) Loud parties who feel they own the restaurant. I hate to admit this about my own sex, but it’s often a group of women celebrating something and drinking who feel they can squeal, shriek and laugh at top volume with total disregard for the other guests. Get a room.

3) Wait staff who don’t clear off every dirty dish before they bring out the next course. Or who take the dirty silverware off the plate and put it on the table so you can use it for the next course.

4) Cell phone conversations. Kudos to Brightons for banning them. I’m sure there are other restaurants that do, but it’s the only one I’ve noticed. Please e-mail me or post below if you know of any others, or if your restaurant bans them.

5) Servers with tongue piercings. You look great; you look totally fierce, I just don’t want to think about what that feels like while I’m eating.

6) Flash cameras at nice restaurants. I know you’re celebrating your parents' 50th wedding anniversary, but aren’t two pictures enough? That’s the problem with the invention of digital cameras; you don’t have to worry about using up all your film, so you take a lot more shots just in case.

7) Tipsy tables and uneven double tables when they’ve been pushed together to seat four. Don’t manufacturers make the legs the same length anymore?

8) Servers who don’t write down your order and then get it wrong.

9) Innovation for the sake of innovation. I hate it when the kitchen is being too clever so some inappropriate ingredient appears in a perfectly decent dish, like chocolate in the mac ‘n’ cheese. (I’m not making this up.) If it works, OK. But that doesn’t happen enough.

10) Upselling. As when you ask what’s good, and the recommendation is the most expensive thing on the menu or wine list.


Next Top Ten Tuesday: Restaurant Desserts

These will be just the ones I’ve tasted in the past year or so.  Feel free to post or e-mail me your suggestions.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:28 AM | | Comments (14)
Categories: Pet Peeves, Top Ten Tuesdays
        
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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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