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April 27, 2007

The $160 rib eye steak

As promised, I visited Cut, supposedly one of the best restaurants in America. It’s certainly one of the most expensive ...
It’s in the Beverly Wilshire, one of the fanciest hotels in Beverly Hills. There’s no sign announcing it, and if you didn’t know where to go, it isn’t easy to find in that labyrinth of a hotel.

Cut, Wolfgang Puck’s latest venture, wasn’t open for dinner yet, but the host let us "tour" the striking contemporary dining  room, all done in black and white with an Asian sensibility. He was
too busy fielding calls from people fighting to get a reservation to show us around. The phone never stopped ringing.

After we looked around, I asked for a menu.

Cut is the ultimate upscale steak house, with everything a la carte, including $2 sauces and $12 sides. The food is probably fabulous, from the maple-glazed pork belly and Asian pear salad with an orange sesame dressing for $16 to the 8-ounce Japanese Wagyu rib eye for $160, but I
couldn’t afford it.

The cheapest entree on the menu is an unadorned chicken -- sorry, Organic Poussin Cooked on the Rotisserie -- for $36. Want mashed potatoes with your chicken? Sorry, Yukon Gold potato puree? That'll be another $12.

Is my outrage showing?

The best thing about L.A. is that it’s filled with good, hip inexpensive restaurants that I can afford, like Buddha’s Belly, where we had dinner last night. More about that later.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:22 PM | | Comments (0)
        

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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