I go because its patio is my favorite place to eat outdoors. It has a flagstone floor and Mediterranean stucco walls in a soft gold. The whole patio is shaded by enormous ficus trees, with pots of bright flowers and star jasmine along the walls. Each table is set with white tablecloths and candles, and there are heaters for cool evenings.

This time there was something new: a lattice had been put up around the top of the wall because, our waiter told us, the paparazzi had been climbing over the wall when celebs were having dinner there. In spite of all that, it’s not a happening place, which is part of its charm.

The food, a sort of staid Italian, is pretty good, but it’s the patio that draws me back. Not to mention the good bread and wine. My brother and I had pork tenderloin with wilted escarole, and my daughter a pizza with spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, Pecorino cheese and eggplant. Life is good.