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August 23, 2009

Review: Born Round by Frank Bruni

born round by frank bruniToday in The Baltimore Sun, you'll find a review of "Born Round" by Frank Bruni, who has been the New York Times' restaurant critic. The book doesn't focus on inside chatter about the city's eateries, though Bruni does describe his disguises. Instead, the book takes a hard look at his personal demon: an eating disorder. An excerpt from Diane Garrett's review:

It’s a good thing Frank Bruni is such a talented writer, or “Born Round: The Secret History of a Full-Time Eater” would be a lot tougher to digest. The outgoing restaurant reviewer for The New York Times writes frankly about gargantuan binges and drastic weight-loss strategies in this alternately rollicking and sobering memoir. A book of comic excesses and culinary appreciation, it ends on a cautiously optimistic note: Bruni mostly has his eating under control but doesn’t take it for granted.

His passion for food, however, remains undiminished.

Bruni has always loved to eat. The author even suggests he was a baby bulimic, describing in vivid detail the time he threw up all over his highchair after being denied a third burger. ... “My parents would later tell me, my friends and anyone else willing to listen that they’d never seen a kid eat the way I ate or react the way I reacted whenever I was denied food,” Bruni writes. “I have no independent memory of this. But according to my mother, it began when I was about 18 months old.” ...

 

 

Gourmands will no doubt relish his descriptions of meals at top restaurants. His stories about disguising his identity are also amusing. Alas, this portion of the book is Bruni’s most self-indulgent: He quotes liberally from his reviews, clearly

 

tickled by his prose, and details a spat with restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow in unbecoming fashion. It’s a false note in an otherwise deftly written book.

At the outset, he invokes his grandmother’s saying — “Born round, you don’t die square” — to describe his physique, but doesn’t hit readers over the head with the metaphor. Toward the end he ponders whether people can change their nature. His younger brother had. Bruni thought he had too. Except he hadn’t. One night’s overindulgence reminded him he’d always have to be careful about his eating. He’s not like everyone else when it comes to gustatory indulgence.

Posted by Dave Rosenthal at 6:00 AM | | Comments (1)
Categories: Reviews
        

Comments

This sounds like one for my memoir list, since I do love a good memoir.

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About the blogger
Dave Rosenthal came to The Baltimore Sun as a business reporter in 1987 and now is the Maryland Editor. He reads a wide range of books (but never as many as he'd like), usually alternating between non-fiction and fiction. Some all-time favorites: A Confederacy of Dunces by John Kennedy Toole; Wind, Sand and Stars by Antoine de Saint-Exupery; and anything by Calvin Trillin or John McPhee. He belongs to a book club with a Jewish theme.
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