Cookbook review: Pepin and friends
In case you missed it amid the Obama-mania, the Taste section reviewed three new cookbooks that offer solutions for time-starved cooks. Here's an excerpt from Jill Rosen's review of More Fast Food My Way by Jacques Pepin, Jamie at Home by Jamie Oliver and The Modern Baker by Nick Malgieri:
Pepin, the gourmand, vows everything in his book is fast and easy. Oliver, the spiky-haired U.K. chef known for laid-back cooking, says he really means it this time with Jamie at Home. Even Malgieri, bound by the science of baking, swears The Modern Baker will save people so much time they’ll want to bake every day.
Pepin, reached by phone in New York where he was recently promoting his book, thinks his latest volume will appeal to anyone who wants fresh, nice food “without working too much.” Homemade, he says, is overrated. ...
More Fast Food My Way isn’t particularly pretty. No one will ooh and ahh about the photography or the utilitarian design. Pepin also repeatedly turns to certain ingredients — anchovies appear in at least eight recipes.
For style, turn to Oliver’s book. Each of the 400-plus pages is filled with great photography and festive, colorfully presented information — even the index has pizazz. That said, Oliver’s no Pepin when it comes to fast and easy. Though Oliver introduces Jamie at Home saying, “It’s about no-nonsense, simple cooking,” more than a few of the recipes have ingredient lists that stretch down the page, many of which call for imprecise and rather nonsensical measurements, such as a “good knob” of butter or a “small wineglass of white wine.” ...
Malgieri, a pastry chef whose previous cookbooks have won a number of prestigious awards, knows how to boil what could be complicated instructions into clear steps. The Modern Baker isn’t necessarily a beginner’s cookbook. It’s a book for cooks who want to bake, but without unnecessary, old-fashioned steps. Malgieri includes some time-saving tips, but mainly it’s his clarity that will spare readers headaches.







